Hi Peeps,
I have had 4 codes thrown, each a different problem but I don't know HELP is very much needed. One has to due with the Cmashaft Position Sensor, 2- Knock Sensor, 3- EGR sensor (I have no EGR valve) car used to be turboed, 4- Collant Sensor.
Well here's the skinny I have this issue where I have no power between 0-2,000ish 2,500ish RPM's then outa no where BAM power, and this only happens in the rain, or anywet conditions!!! Well if you have encountered this issue or have heard of this issue and have solutions please SHARE!! Thanks!!
96 CAVALIER Z24 UNDER CONSTRUCTION
Dang it man you had to ask that question I don't remember
96 CAVALIER Z24 UNDER CONSTRUCTION
The Coolant sensor and Knock sensor codes will effect drivability.......
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Check for a bad wire for your crank position sensor. I had the same exact problem, my wire was cut. After I spliced it back together, no more code!
SpeedRacerZ wrote:The Coolant sensor and Knock sensor codes will effect drivability.......
Exactly, when the knock sensor code is thrown the car is sent into something called "Limp home mode" which significantly reduces power until the problem is resolved.
Which in most cases the problem is resolved at higher rpms as it balances itself out.
...and if the camshaft is possibly damaged or becomes unbalanced, maybe due to wear on the bearings, it will cause the engine to knock.
The coolant sensor, you actually need to elaborate on that... wheather if was an undervoltage, overvoltage, intermitant, no response or if an 'overheat condition' was detected.
If the sensor is not working properly or throws an overheat condition, the car will also be sent into a limp home mode, for obvious reasons.
Get a repair book for your car and check the voltages coming from those sensors to make sure they are working properly.
If they are checking correctly and your wiring appears in Bristol fashion(as Lanman21337 - Cavfire)described, then you may have a serious mechanical problem.
If not, repair the wiring or replace the sensor and always insulate ANY bare wires with heatshrink or electrical tape.
But as far as the inclimate weather affecting performance... I can't see any correlation to anything unless the water is shorting something out.
________________________________________________________
You're no good to the group if you never make it there.
A damaged plug would be my first guess. Water getting into something and shorting it out.
Bob wrote:SpeedRacerZ wrote:The Coolant sensor and Knock sensor codes will effect drivability.......
Exactly, when the knock sensor code is thrown the car is sent into something called "Limp home mode" which significantly reduces power until the problem is resolved.
Which in most cases the problem is resolved at higher rpms as it balances itself out.
...and if the camshaft is possibly damaged or becomes unbalanced, maybe due to wear on the bearings, it will cause the engine to knock.
The coolant sensor, you actually need to elaborate on that... wheather if was an undervoltage, overvoltage, intermitant, no response or if an 'overheat condition' was detected.
If the sensor is not working properly or throws an overheat condition, the car will also be sent into a limp home mode, for obvious reasons.
Get a repair book for your car and check the voltages coming from those sensors to make sure they are working properly.
If they are checking correctly and your wiring appears in Bristol fashion(as Lanman21337 - Cavfire)described, then you may have a serious mechanical problem.
If not, repair the wiring or replace the sensor and always insulate ANY bare wires with heatshrink or electrical tape.
But as far as the inclimate weather affecting performance... I can't see any correlation to anything unless the water is shorting something out.
Wow man i appreciate it that is some elaborate stuff thanks a million cause i think you just might have fixed my problem!!!! I'll have to take a look at it when my leg heals up
96 CAVALIER Z24 UNDER CONSTRUCTION
if it were the knock sensor gone bad would the "limp home mode" be on constantly cause my car only seems to "limp home" during wet weather.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, February 03, 2007 11:34 PM
96 CAVALIER Z24 UNDER CONSTRUCTION
Ok heres the deal there is like a little module that is connected to the Spark plug boots changed that as well as the knock sensor and the car seems to be worse, ummmmm the car used to be turboed so I don't know if the previous owner ran a different set-up as far as ignition wise, there is a little control module in the car that can adjust the Air/Fuel Ratio and also controlled the turbo cool down like the seconds or minutes after you turn the car off to cool down the turbo and yes I did play with the Air/Fuel ratio but didn't think it would be such a short time for it to play a big part Well I will appreciate the help
96 CAVALIER Z24 UNDER CONSTRUCTION
Anything???
96 CAVALIER Z24 UNDER CONSTRUCTION
Come on peoples just a little bit of help I am just trying to get my cavy running so I can have it for work when I get better and also for the spring time for the track, some help PLEASE!!
96 CAVALIER Z24 UNDER CONSTRUCTION
I have a 1998 Cavalier 2.2L with 210 900 kms
I'm getting a "check engine" light right now that will not go out. A week ago she started stalling and misfiring almost like there was water or condensation is the gas. She'd barely run on four cylinders like.
So I would get her going barely and have to give it some gas like a manual idle just to keep her going.
When I did get her running after all the misfiring, she seemed ok. Just really lagging like an improper fuel to air ratio. I already had both oxygen sensors replaced not too long ago which fixed a similar stalling and misfire first and bogging when she'd get going.
It's a bogging that can be described as almost like a lean fuel mixture or too rich. I'm not even sure what's going on. I went on a 25 km or so drive and shut her down for a bit. Then I went out later for a drive to get some gas and the light went out.
That was all well and good. So she started working correctly again (getting the proper fuel- to-air) then about a week later she started stalling and misfiring again. I figured "OH great".
I just thought she would go through her fits and the engine light might have a chance at coming off and she'd work right again type thing. Well, I was wrong. I've had that light on for a few days now. The exhaust sounds different, she's lacking power too.
I should check the coolant levels to make sure it's not dissappearing from a blown head gaskette. That will cause a big reduction in power and a bogging WRX sound.
What about the MAP sensor? TPS sensor? I will try to get her on AutoTAP soon. Does anyone know of this porblem? Or a suggestion as to what it might be??
--1998 Cavalier 2.2L--
What about the MAP sensor? TPS sensor? I will try to get her on AutoTAP soon. Does anyone know of this porblem? Or a suggestion as to what it might be??
WHAT about the plugs, wires, distributer cap, and rotor button? A small misfire can result with, or even with all the salt of the roads now. Any type of little crack or slice in your plug wires will make a big difference.
--CHECK--
--Going to use the mist bottle to spray the plug wires with water at night. Sparks...__
I had a similar problem with my former car, a 94 Cavalier 2.2L. I replaced the plug wires with cheap ones and one turned out to be bad. So I paid the the extra and acquired AC DELCO wires. Problem solved.
I also recommend OEM spark plugs. A friend of mine had a 95 Cavalier 2.2L and he had a devil of a time with it sputtering until the dealer told him to replace the aftermarket plugs with AC Delco Platinum plugs.
These cars don't have distrubutor caps or rotor buttons, rather 2 coil packs. It could be them however I would try the other items first.
Best of luck.
