Symptom: Blower motor is off at all speeds, intermittently coming on under heavy acceleration.
Possible Cause: The connector at the cooling fan (the one at the radiator) is the suspect.
Attempts To Fix: With the car idling, I jiggle the wire a bit and the blower motor kicks on. As soon as I go to pull out of my driveway (to be more exact as soon as I go to let off the clutch), it shuts off. Repeat process to get the blower motor back on...
Also, this causes the cooling fan not to turn on. I have almost overheated twice due to unknown traffic issues (once on Black Friday out in the middle of nowhere, and once 2 weekends before Christmas).
Yesterday, I unplugged the connector thinking that one of the 2 pins was loose. To see if that was the suspect connector, I put the key in run, engine off, connector unplugged. No blower motor function.
Undid the pins from the connector and moved the spring part farther out so that it would make good contact with the pins on the cooling fan.
That seemed to work for about 10 minutes of driving, then back to the intermittent stuff again.
Undid the connector and used starting fluid and a pipe cleaner to clean the contacts on the cooling fan. Again, 10 minutes of driving and nada. Jiggle the wire and the blower kicks back on.
Could there be an internal fault in the cooling fan at this point?
sounds like the heater core.
Daniel Noriega wrote:sounds like the heater core.
how can it be the heater core?
Ryan1
Daniel Noriega wrote:sounds like the heater core.
Not really... heater core has no control over the blower motor.
In my '93 2.2
The blower motor and the coolant fan relay share a common ground point G100, spliced together at splice S101.
G100 is Lh front of engine on transaxle stud, splice S101 is in the engine harness near LH front strut tower.
I just wondered if you were actually disturbing the ground or splice connection when checking that connector at the coolant fan.
Might be worth checking see if anythings loose
Alont
Quote:
I just wondered if you were actually disturbing the ground or splice connection when checking that connector at the coolant fan.
Since it was doing the intermittent cut-off prior to checking the connector, doubtful, but worth a shot checking the grounds (just have to wait for the weather to clear up again before I can look under the hood)...
Hey Kardain, Sounds like I have the same issue you do. When the HVAC control is on the "OFF" position, is the green light on? sometimes I can use my AC for awhile, then it will totally not work for a long time. I brought it into a shop and they couldnt figure it out, they swapped out the blower resister, blower motor. I even swapped the HVAC unit. Still the same thing. I'm also looking for help why my AC goes on and off like this.
Maybe check the undehood fuse panel. Like not only the fuses, but the connections to the panel too.
What about hard wiring the connections instead of still having the connector and seeing if that changes anything???
I looked at some diagrams but that's all I could come up with.
-Seth
Quote:
Hey Kardain, Sounds like I have the same issue you do. When the HVAC control is on the "OFF" position, is the green light on? sometimes I can use my AC for awhile, then it will totally not work for a long time. I brought it into a shop and they couldnt figure it out, they swapped out the blower resister, blower motor. I even swapped the HVAC unit. Still the same thing. I'm also looking for help why my AC goes on and off like this.
Nope, just the blower and cooling fan shutting off. Green light only comes on as normal (when the AC button is pressed or either Max/Defrost is selected on the HVAC unit).
Quote:
Maybe check the undehood fuse panel
Did that. They all check out...
If anything, I'll strip away the wire loom again and check for a smoked wire if the grounds are ok. I gotta wait till later this week... its supposed to rain and no garage
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, January 01, 2007 9:46 PM
Sounds like the same kind of wiring issue my friend was having, But for his it was the rear brake lights, The first thing was to look at the fuse in the fuse panel, Things looked good in that area. Then we replaced the brake light switch, In whiched worked for a small amount of time. Then no brake lights. I fiddled with the plastic wiring connector harness to the brake lights, They work working again, Then stop working soon as I went for a drive, Then all I did is checked all the wires for short markings in the wires. Everything looked good, I also tested the current that was running though the wires as well. 12volts. I Just rewired brake light wires straight to gether, Without using that plastic connector, Once I did that the brakes light work great no problems. I just added some wire heat wrap or solider the connections, Worked!!!!!.
GoodLuck.
Yay. I have heat again. It was the ground at the transaxle stud. It wiggled itself loose
Thanks for the suggestion alont.
Just in time to stay warm for the snow that the Seattle area's getting
Your Welcome--pleased to be able to help
Alont
Does the ABS and Blower Motor share the same ground point?
Because I have somewhat the same problem as well...
Blower shuts off, then at the same time ABS/Park Brake lights turn on. Rev the motor, ABS/Park Brake lights shut off, Blower turns back on.
Also when driving the ABS/Park Brake lights come on and off (half the time turning on and staying on till the car is shut off). I have had the code run before and it comes back saying the the Main Unit had a loss of power.
I am not sure about the cooling fan not working, when the blower isn't.
I'm guessing its your 2000.... the ABS and Cooling fan are grounded to G112 through S101, which is the same ground that I had the problem with (got some assistance from the GM service manual on this one)
oh ya, sorry. Yes its the 2000cavy.
I hope to look into this on Sunday.
Thanks!!!
Hey Kardain, or anyone that knows. I blower flickers on and off. Its probably some wires that is loose. Maybe the same as yours? I know you you have 2.2, can you guide me the right direction to find the ground at the transaxle stud. I"m trying to find anything to fix my AC. any help appreciated
xerd
if it's any help on a '93 2.2 (G100) it's where the main battery negative cable grounds to the engine block.
Alont
If you are looking at the engine from the front bumper, its on the top front of the transmission. It should have a double hex nut appearance setup...
Hey guys, I think you guys fixed my problem. My AC works!!!! I tighten the bolt that was under the double hex nut. that was a bit loose. Now its working since yesterday.
Thanks for everything.
