hey all,
i have searched the forum, talked to people and still no concrete answer.
1.5 years ago, i had problems with my a/c comp. going out, so, i replaced the compressor, dryer, orifice tube.. i think that's it. anyhow, it blew ice cold forever.. then i put it in the shop to put on a body kit (a friends shop) so i worked on it when i could.
ok, the point.. my a/c blows COLD but, i have to rev the motor to 4500+ rpms to get the clutch to engage., then it blows ice cold. this is EVERYTIME i start when you start the car (ac off) then turn the a/c on, the engine's idle slightly changes (feels normal) Today, i started the car, left it at idle.. looked at the compressor to see if it was spinning. nope. good. then i turn on the A/C, feel the idle change then i had a flashlight looking at the compressor... not spinning.. so, while under the hood, i revved the motor compressor clutch engages..(i see it spinning) and ice cold air out of the vents.
i have a 1998 z24
- an older 140amp h/o alternator (at the battery 12.9 at idle, when new.. 14.2)
for some reason i am thinking my alternator is going out and causing this problem. possible? any concrete "check these?" for me?
Thank you in advance,
michael
www.michaelsportfolio.com
oh yea, i have a diy self a/c kit.. the guage says it's in the green. how accurate the guage is- thats a different story, i dunno.
www.michaelsportfolio.com
Thats really weird. I was told that the AC was supposed to DISENGAGE at high RPM...
"The Blue Bullet"
yea, beats me. it's very consistant too... so, its not like its "every-so-often" its EVERY time i start the car. once its revved, the ac stays blowing ice cold, even at idle.. very seldom, while driving through town it will stop blowing cold..(usually if i get on the gas really fast and let off and come to a stop) i just push the clutch in, rev to 4500+ "ahh.. cold A/C"
i've even tried to slowly rev the motor to see if it is a voltage problem... (alt stays around 12.8-13.0, regardless of rpm) as soon as it hits 4400-4500 i feel the compressor engage. revving it fast or slow makes no difference.
www.michaelsportfolio.com
Disconnect the connector that goes into the back side of the clutch at an angle, and check to see what the voltage is to the connector at idle. Then, rev the engine and see if the voltage changes.
Humm,
Stick a volt meter to the A/C ele plug with it unplugged at idle like you tried above, A/C turned on. See if it's getting 12v at idle with it on. If it's getting 12v there, but the clutch isn't locking on there's your problem. if that's true, then either (1) the clutch is going out, or (2) the clutch isn't getting enough amps to lock it up until the engine turns fast enough for the alternator to power it with enough amps. Next connect 2 leads to the battery + and -, and apply to the clutch plug at idle and see if it comes on. If it comes on then, it may be that the alternator isn't putting out enough amps at idle to energize the clutch and is on it's way out. It's also possible that a ground isn't good somewhere and when ya'll were doing the body kit it got disconnected or moved enough that it isn't "grounding" anymore. Give that a try and see what you get.
Don
thanks for the advice, i'll be trying that next. i really have a feeling that it is something to w/ voltage... i used to have four 12s ported in the truck on 1500 watts on bass and 1000 on highs/mids, i also had a 2nd gel cell batt in the trunk as well.. (its out for the time being.. while i work on the car some more) i think the alternator is going... just a hunch. i had a system on that alt. for about 2+ years before i parked it. the 2500 watt system for about a year of that... i think the alt. is abused. here's the system..
http://www.diald.com/index.htm?Features/dialD_Enthusiast/MikeBoydsInstall.htm~mainFrame
i appreciate the tips, i really do. thanks a bunch. i'll post the answer on here for anyone else that may have this weird problem.
any more advice is will still be appreciated.
michael boyd
www.michaelsportfolio.com
