Hi guys, im about to replace my timing chain, tensioner, guides and gasket...just want to make sure i have everything i need...

Its a 98 Sunfire GT (2.4L)

I have:

- new chain
- new guides
- new tensioner and shoe
- new gasket (arrives in a day or 2)
- puller tool for removing the "crank pulley" (i think its called) to get the timing housing cover off
- 2 x 8mm bolts to lock the cam gears

I wish the manual said what size wrenches and whatnot id need, i know i have to support the engine and remove the mounts? or mounting bolts? and the other question i have is, how hard/easy is it to replace the gears themselves without f$%&ing up the timing? my first major job, dont have 500$+ to spend on labour...any hints/tips/todos or nottodos would be great please

anyone done this before can give me some pointers??? anyone?? wanted to do this tomorrow, but if i need anything else i have to get it first

tonnes of times, you need a 8 or 10 for the little bolts. you are best off removing the top coolant lines on the resivore, and leaving the bottom line on and just tipping the tank towards the front, this way you won't loose any fluid.
loose tire, then jack up and remove tire, you will have to remove a couple pieces of plastic underneath.

loosen the 2 larger motor mount bolts, then make sure you jack up the engine (just enought to support it),

remove the mount completely, followed by the alternator belt (if not removed already)

once that is removed, simply remove all the little bolts putting them in a little container

once those are all removed, put the engine either 90 or 270 degrees from TDC (little dot on crank forward or back)

loosen the cam gear bolts (may have to get some one in the car with foot on break and car in gear.(make sure you use loctite espically on the exhaust cam)

at this point using a flat screwdriver push the tensioner in to release pressure on the chain

once this is done, remove the plastic guides and the tensioner

remover the chain and cam gears.

reinstall in reverse order.

you will need to retime the engine which is super easy to do. you will need 2 dowls (3/8" bolts will do IIRC). The reason we turned the engine off TDC is just incase the spring pressure decided to turn a cam and snap a valve onto a piston (once you do it you will understand) so ensure that the cam gears are installed and torqued on, (loctite too) then find the little timing hole (which you have seen on your new gears by now), and insert the dowls in the aligning holes in the block (5 and 7 o'clock IIRC) and then your cams are adjusted. VERY SLOWLY turn the engine back to TDC ensuring the pistons do not hit the valves, and install the chain, guides, tensioner, then push the tensioner with flat screwdriver to reset it, and you have just timed the engine and tightened the chain up.

IMPORTANT : MAKE SURE WHEN THE DOWLS ARE IN THE CAM GEARS THE CHAIN HAS ZERO, NONE, 0, SLACK, AND NO SLACK BETWEEN THE INTAKE CAM AND CRANK. THEN LET THE TENSIONER REMOVE ALL THE REMAINDER OF SLACK. once you are sure the tensioner is reset and tightened up chain, remove dowls, and ensure nothing moved. turn the engine over 2 revolutions to make sure nothing is binding, and put the cover back on... and you'll be driving in no time.



*tip: do not pry on the cover for any reason, it will bend and leak oil forever if you do.

*tip: to get the one "impossible bolt on the mount, you may need to use the hole in the motor mount bracket on the passenger fender, it is a 18mm, you may have to lift engine up to align the socket.

*tip, while the timing chain is off and engine up, doing a water pump is only an extra 30minutes or so.


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

thank you very much, very helpful....will keep posted on the results

THIS PICTURE THE CHAIN IS NOT TIGHT. IT SHOULD NOT HANG. MAKE SURE CHAIN IS TIGHT!!!!!!!


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

hey thanks for the pic, that is very helpful...hope my inside is that clean LOL....unfortunately i wasnt able to do it today like i wanted, wont be until Tuesday or wednesday...by friday at the latest though, as im off to toronto and want it done before i go...

Garrett, you said loosen the 2 larger motor mount bolts.. Thats the lower dogbone mount right? Is that the one you completely removed, or the one that actually bolts on from that mount to the engine block?











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

the lower mount is left un touched. the top passenger mount has 3 nuts and two larger bolts aiming straight down. once those nuts/bolts are removed you have 3 more bolts holding the bracket to the block... this is all done easily from the top


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

^^Ahh got cha, I know what you mean now.. Whewww, damn I wish the engine was out of the car again for this haha..











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

ge_forcez22- I just took my timing cover off and my engine is Timed.. It looks just like you have pictured right there after I set it to TDC.. So should I just leave it like that and just put everything back together and start the engine? Maybe my timing being off a little bit when I put the engine together made that much of a difference to cause that erratic idle. What do you think?














~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

shouldn't he chang the water pump to

hmmm, next would be fuel or spark..


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED