First Question - when I start up my 98 sunfire, it wants to run @ 3k and stay there. My boyfriend at first thought that it was just the computer trying to adjust for something, so he said to push the gass to make it drop to the normal operating spd. But that didnt wk. So it just stays at 3k. The other side to this question is when I put it into drive and hold the brake, the car dies. If I put it in drive and quickly remove my foot from the brake it operates like normal.

2nd question - when question one happens, it can be difficult for the car to start. At first it sounds like it wont start at all, but if you turn it off and then back on it will start but give u what I described in question 1.

I've read several post on Idle problems and other such things... Can someone show me where the IAC, TPS, and any other sensors that could a contributor toward this problem are located. My boyfriend said that there are 3 things that plug into the TB.

Sounds like the IAC motor is hooped. It's one of the three things on the TB. The other two are the TPS and the MAP sensor.

Or a really bad vacuum leak.

You can try resetting the IAC.... turn the car to ON (don't start it)... wait 10-15 seconds.... then start it. That 10 seconds allows the IAC to cycle all the way back and forth and 'reset" itself. It doesn't work all the time when this problem comes up.... but it's a simple fix that might just do the trick. If not... you can try cleaning it with TB or carb cleaner (try not to spray it on the shaft... the TPS sensor doesn't like the chemicals in TB cleaner).... if not, replace it.

On this pic which one is the IAC? IS it the one located closest to the firewall or the one that closest to the top of the TB or the one that is sticking straight out?

The 4-pin connector (top left, in your pic) is the IAC.

Beside it (down in your pic) are three vaccum lines, one to the brake booster line (big one), one to the heater controls (runs down then turns 90 degrees right, into the wiring harness), and one to the A/C EVA controls (goes down the front of the block).

There's another vacuum line in there, that is short... runs to the MAP sensor which is the one sticking out the very bottom of your picture. It has three wires in a flat plug.

There's a three-pin round connector on the side of the TB, above the MAP sensor as you have in your picture (pointing up towards the camera). That is the TPS sensor.

I hope that made sense.

Thanks alot for the very detailed infomation. I will still have my boyfriend read this and have him check to make sure that these are all wking good. Sunday when I was driving though, the battery light came one when I would press on the brake. Didnt think to much about, and went on about my day. Well when I was on my way home, the battery light wasnt on anymore, but my drl light was flashing. Again...didnt really affect the way the car drove. So I turned on the AC and went on my way. Well while I was leaving the ac would kick in and then go off and then kick in...until the car just died. It acted as though it didnt want to start afterwards, but I got it going. So when I got home I told my boyfriend about this and he thought it could be the alternator that was going bad since the battery light came on. Well he went and got the battery tested first, and it came back with a BAD CELL. I have bought a new batter and everything wks fine. Cauld the battery, being dead or low cause the computer to try to compenstate for the low voltage? Thats the only thing that was changed!

Hmm.... sounds like the voltage regulator in the alternator is shot, so it's not charging properly. Very odd that it caused that high an idle though.... weird.

Hopefully you got the alt checked at the same time... otherwise you'll kill that brand new battery real quick.