OH MY GOD. Never again will I get power windows. Never again. I started the job this afternoon when I got out of work, which was at about noon or so, and I just finished at 10:30pm eastern. I did stop for about 2 hours to go grocery shopping., and for about 20 minutes to eat dinner. Let me tell you..if you plan on doing this job yourself, you may want to get about 5 or so 3/16 sized drill bits, because you will break one or two just drilling out the rivets.
The hardest part of this job was definately the rivets. Id say about 85% of my time was drilling them out. I replaced the rivets with 1/4x1/2 bolts and zip ties holding the motor to the regulator.
My passengers front now works. after almost a year of no power on that window
If anyone needs a walkthrough Ill be glad to help. Just PM me.
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damn you did it the hard way. i did mine not too long ago for the first time and it only took me 2 hours. you need to get like 1/2 inch drill bit. instead of using a little bit to drill through the center of the rivet, use a big bit to just drill the top of the damn thing off. then just smack it with a hammer and it'll fall out.
at least now you know how to do it though. i've had all mine replaced several times. rear doors get it soon.
GO PATS!!!
Yeah, it sucked major ass. The rear windows aren't showing any signs of power loss or anything like that, so hopefully I'll be good for awhile. No more jobs like that for atleast 5 years or so PLEASE!
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if you get a quaity bit and drill you should be able to do it with only one
if you go 5 years you're lucky as hell. i've had all mine replaced at least twice (front windows 3 times) and its a 2002.
GO PATS!!!
Machzel08 wrote:if you get a quaity bit and drill you should be able to do it with only one
I had craftsman oxidized bits., and 3/16 drill bits aren't the most "heavy duty" and since they are thing they break easily.
Also to add, the zip ties broke on my third roll up roll down test, so yet again was I stuck at 9:30 at night digging my arms into the door. Went to AutoZone last night and replaced them with M6 bolts. 20 Up/Down tests and it hasn't failed yet.
Lets hope it stays
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I didnt get even p/w or p/l with my car. Told the dealer I wont buy it if it has p/w and p/l, stuff breaks all the time.
- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new
Rob S wrote:I didnt get even p/w or p/l with my car. Told the dealer I wont buy it if it has p/w and p/l, stuff breaks all the time.
Its a nice feature, but it sucks replacing it or having it replaced. I got the motor for 30 bucks from a junkyard and installed it myself.
Shop down the road wanted 249 for the motor and 100 for labor. Blech
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Zip ties?? Why not just use the same bolts in all the holes? That's what I did.
As for drilling out rivets... forget drilling. Grind the head off with a dremel and grinding wheel and you'll be done in no time.
Oh good, i needed some direction with this. My driverside window just died on me, and im not gonna pay another $300+ to replace them damn thing.
I dont get it though, why the the rear window motors never seem to fail but the front windows die constantly? I never had the problem on my '98 kia with power windows. 6 years i had that car, and never replaced the motors once. My sunfire is a 2000, and the driver side was replaced 8 times already and my passanger 9 times. Thank good most of it was under warrenty. But my warrenty ended about 4 months ago.
So just making sure: I can use bolts instead of rivets? And i guess im gonna need one of those arm sleeves that you use to clean a cows bowls to prevent that damn tar from getting all over my arms?
And Scriz, you got mail.
I think someone should make a sticky on how to fix this stuff?
One more question before i forget, Is it possible to upgrade the wire to the motor? maybe then it with work a little faster.
El Fuego ( the grounded one ) wrote:My sunfire is a 2000, and the driver side was replaced 8 times already and my passanger 9 times. Thank good most of it was under warrenty. But my warrenty ended about 4 months ago.
This is excessive. There's almost certainly something wrong that's causing this or your dealer is using some complete garbage rebuilt motors.
You mentioned getting covered in tar. I'm assuming you're talking about some rust proofing stuff since normally the inside of the door panel is clean. Usually they'll spray oil in there to keep it from rusting. If they've used the sticky tar-like stuff on yours, I wonder if it's on the regulator and impeding the movement. If something is preventing the regulator from sliding freely, it will kill the motor over time. That might be your problem.
When you have the regulator out to change the motor, clean it thoroughly to ensure it moves freely. If it's all gummed up, use some degreaser on it. Then use some white grease on the sliders and some oil on the hinge.
Then ensure all the tracks are clean and lube them with some silicone lube.
Cool thanks for the info.
ok, after having a lovely time in heavy downpours replacing the motor, the rivits i got from the dealership are the wrong size. So what is the right size? they gave me 3/16th.
Other question, where does the motor set as per the black tooth gear for when the window is in the full upright position?
I think i need to remove the whole thing again, and reposition the motor.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also below are some pics that i took yesterday showing that tar crap that was everywhere in the door and on the motor. its all clean now.
don't use rivets, makes it hard for the NEXT time you have to replace it. i used nuts and bolts to hold it in...worked fine. you KNOW you'll have to replace it again.
can't help with the second part. i took the old motor off and put the new one straight on.
GO PATS!!!
^^^ i guess no one ever taught you the easy way to remove rivits.
But ok none the less.
easiest way i know is to get a drill bit bigger than the rivet head and drill it off...
do tell if there's an easier way...my rear door window motor is getting replaced soon.
GO PATS!!!
there are 2 easy ways IMO.
1) get a dremal with a cut off disc, and cut the rivit 2 ways, like a philips head screw. Then the top just pops off and other side falls into the door.
2) Torch the head of the rivit till it turns red, then throw ice cold water on it. Rivit head just breaks off.
yea, when i did mine i got irritated with the drill bit and used a cut off disc. forgot about that.
GO PATS!!!
El Fuego ( the grounded one ) wrote:there are 2 easy ways IMO.
1) get a dremal with a cut off disc, and cut the rivit 2 ways, like a philips head screw. Then the top just pops off and other side falls into the door.
2) Torch the head of the rivit till it turns red, then throw ice cold water on it. Rivit head just breaks off.
Didn't have a dremel, or a torch. Used what I had handy.
I need to buy a dremel anyways. I think my driver's side is going out. YAY!
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manual windows and locks FTW!!!
MY 2003 SUNFIRE 15.33@88.5mph
"A N/A ecotec is not gonna give Honda's and Mitsu's that much of a run for their
money unless their blown or bottle fed.GM is still smokin crack!"
~1QWKZ24
www.streetracing.org, 08/2001
There is no set position for when you're putting the motor back in. Its just simply placing it in and bolting it on.
El Fuego ( the grounded one ) wrote:ok, after having a lovely time in heavy downpours replacing the motor, the rivits i got from the dealership are the wrong size. So what is the right size? they gave me 3/16th.
Other question, where does the motor set as per the black tooth gear for when the window is in the full upright position?
I think i need to remove the whole thing again, and reposition the motor.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also below are some pics that i took yesterday showing that tar crap that was everywhere in the door and on the motor. its all clean now.
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