i have a feeling that my motor mounts are worn out or on the way out on my 1999 z24... because of the massive engine movment in the engine bay... let me rewind a bit ... a while back i was having trouble with the evil "coil pack housing cover" i learned my lesson from that (after market is evil for this part ) causing my engine to be olny running on 2 cylinders. durring that time i was testing every little change, starting the car watching it shake like it was having a seizure. this went on for a good 2 weeks untill i gave into the chevy dealer fee.

sorry for blabing on and on ....

so now when i swich from 1st to 2nd and mash down hard on the gas and dump the clutch, i can feel the engine (not the car) studdering almost bucking around realy hard where as before the engine problems she would just churp the tires and take off.

so am i right in asumeing the motor mouts? if so can they be tighned or should i get polyurethane upper and lower mounts?

Go with aftermarket solids mounts if you don't mind a little vibrating. I would buy them from Karo at CarCustoms.net. Link to mounts on CarCustoms.net

Rob





Sold 2/2/05

a little vibrating???? whats that mean

It means your engine will now be held in place by rigid mounts so the rest of your car will vibrate around it. Personally, I didn't think it was that bad, but I don't think the ride quality in a Cavy is that great to begin with.

Rob





Sold 2/2/05

i am going to save my pennies for the solid mounts because i cant stand the feel of the engine bouncing around when iam trying to shift hard at high RPM. with the solid mounts will i be faster off the line? and in gear shifts?

If they make you faster, it will be barely noticeable in your times (if you go to the track). Most likely, it will just feel faster and more solid.

Rob





Sold 2/2/05

www.gravanatuning.com

go there. spend 60$ and get both the prothane upper and lower mounts.

i have both on my car. takes about an hour to install both. and its a HUGE diffrence. i can actually drag rubber unlike before. my shifts feel much more solid and there is no engine movement.

there is a little vibration at high rpms, but its not that bad. my suspension makes more vibration because its so stiff, more vibration then the motor mounts do.





- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
- www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car club site!)

Yeah,

I recently replaced all of my mounts (2 motor mounts, 1 trans. strut) in my 1998 Cavalier 2.2L around September 2005. Then, not even 2 years after the fact... *Moment of pause* The dog bone mount on the top loosened up to the point then one of the bolts sheered clean off. Thank the almightly brother that invented these cheap after market motor mounts. Thanks to GM for being so cheap. No, a tribute actually to their "Mark of excellence". I'm starting to loose faith in GM products. If it's not a F or Y body, they don't care. Less attention to detail, @!#$ty tolerances. Did an archietect design these mounts or what? Where the hell are your Mechanical Drafters and engineers? These self locking nuts with the nylon insert are about as good the J body design itself. K- car quality. No, even worse. GM K car quality.

Maybe I should pipe down and think about the installation. The only way those mounts would have worked themselves loose is if they wern't torqued correctly. But who knows. The original part lasts 7 years and the replacement lasts less than 2. They wonder why so many people are driving Hondas, Toyotas, and Nissans. Thanks GM for your "quality" in design and engineering. I guess thats how they make their money....

-Can't take the market so they screw over the current GM owners instead.

i just bought a 95 impreza L its ballz slow but it's quite good quality and the AWd is awesome. i like my 97 z24 but awd is tons better in the winter

Anyone

know how install both mounts Upper an Lower ?
It's easier or not. ?
Sunfire 2.4L

Leo (Proy3ct el Niño)

Anwser to youre question Leo L: The bottom dogbone mount is pretty easy to install 2 bolts holds the lower mount together, Pretty easy, The upper mount is pretty easy as well, You got to first unbolt the Coolant resvivor, Move it over to the side. Then you gonna need to some deep sockets, To remove the 3 nuts off the metal bracket. Once that bracket is removed, Youre rubber mount should be there, undo the 2 bolts in the stock mount take that Stock Rubber mount out. Get the poly insert, U are gonna need some dishsoap to side the upper poly mount into the mount area, Bit of force it should pop right in. Then add Stock rubber mount on top the poly insert, Bolt the bracket & Coolant resvivor. Everything should work great. Some get alots of viberations. Ive got alots of viberations with mine, My buddy has very little.


Good Luck.

I just replaced the upper engine mount, actually the aftermarket sort of rubber brick that´s the hart of the mount and is held with two screws from under the mount, I used two ramps to get the car higher and had to use the jack and a piece of wood to hold the engine also had to take out one of the dog bone screws to be able to move the engine till all of the screws of the mount fit properly. It is the third time I change the damned upper mount, first time with a stock mount which is very expensive at the stealership, second with the aftermarket rubber insert then I added a Prothane poly insert and dog bone, it lasted longer but vibes are bothersome.
Maybe the turbotechracing upper mount is worth a try at least it´s design looks stronger and much better since you can get it in different combinations of colors .

1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 2.2L Mounts:

-2 Motor Mounts
-1 Trans Strut

-DO NOT waste time drilling, beating and torching the jam nut. It's made of white metal and is more than likely seized into place. Cut through the rubber bushing housing surrounding the jam nut (and the bushing) to access that damn jam nut.

Recently also replaced the bolts for my upper dog bone mount. There now alot stronger.

[b-]TIP on Upper Dog Bone Mount Bolts- Replace your upper dog bone mount bolts when replacing the mount. Do not use the same factory bolts. They more than likely have been worn to the point (or have slight bend) where they will work themselves out.

Next thing you know, your off from a dead stop and touch the gas and bang, thump. Pop the hood and take a look at the motor. Look at the bolts securing the mount. Is your motor just hanging there barely by one bolt? Is your drive accessory belt (engine tilted forward at idle) almost touching the housing surrounding radiator hose? Yup.. Get that engine jacked up ASAP and "line her up", replace those bolts. I used ones with a higher tensile strength. (M10.9 150 000 psi). Torque them to about 60 pounds. Success at last! I thought my mounts I just replaced were !#$%&'n¿ But nope..