I have a loud metal on metal noise coming from the driver side of the car. The sound was not constant at first, it would only happen when turning left. I thought it could be the wheel bearing so I replaced the wheel hubs on both sides but the noise is still there and now it happens all the time, it gets louder when I hit the brakes. I checked the amount of brakes left and there is more than enough so I don't think it is the brake pads. I'm really stumped as to what this could be, any help would be appreciated. Sorry fo the long post.
did you take the pads off and actually look at them? thats usually what is it when you hear a grinding noise. wheel bearings give off a humming noise
yea i deffintly think it's something with the brakes....could be worn un-even and when you hit the brakes the warning could be rubbing againsed the rotor
hmm.., I guess I'll get new brake pads and see if that fixes the problem. The pad was worn a little unevenly near the bottom of the pad.
Before you buy something else, JusT CHECK THE DAMN THINGS FIRST. Maybe you have plenty of pad left, but the sensor says other wise. In such case, bend the sensor back a little bit.
Also check the slide pins, Are they greased? cause if not, you could be riding those pads and not even know it.
Stupid question ( my question not yours ): Do you have a front sway bar? Some people never actually think to look to see if the stock endlinks are broken. Im replacing them on a buddies corsica cause he gets a loud metal on metal noise, which happens to be the endlinks dragging on the half shafts, since they broke away from the lower control arm.
cv joints are another possibility. make sure there not busted.
-Chris
El Fuego, I did check the brake pads, when I did the hub install, the sway bar endlinks are also good, I know since I had to remove it to install the hub.
IamRascal, I thought that the CV koints would click when they go, not the metal on metal sound I have.
I'm going to rip everything apart when I get the chance and check everything, maybe presidents day.
pads installed on correctly?
how did you check the brake pads?.. the ons visable without taking anything off could be fine and on the back you could have one that is down to the bone.
plus, make sure the rotor heat/dust shield isn't rubbing up against the hub/rotors...
while you're under there checking the brake pad thickness/cleaning/relubing the sliding caliper pins...
im really thinking your inner pad is rubbing on sumthing.
and yes CV joints would make a clickign noise, sumtimes a clunk noise only when rolling. mine do it more when i down shift to hold the car back
heres a crazy brake story. we had a wyotecher bring his car in (this shows how over rated this school is) saying "i replaced my rear pads three times, and i still keep getting a grinding noise, and pads on the left rear keep getting worn in two weeks" pulled the rear brakes off and the left rear rotor was worn INTO THE VENTING FINS!!! he wore completely through the rotors surface into the vent. He replaced his pads HIMSELF AND NEVER SAW THIS??? how the hell is that possible?
haha, he was too lazy/tired to stick his head & do a visual on BOTH sides/B] of the rotor.
but i have solid rear rotors on my nissan... i mainly see vented rotors OEM on the fronts only...
only on older cars, i dont see a car at work w/out vented reas anymore. it's kinda funny, an F-250's rear rotors are like 3" bigger than our front rotors! lol
the rotor on his car might need Turned to. on a brake lathe. this happend to mine. im pretty sure there are no dust sheilds. my car doesnt have one. but i had the rotors turned and the pads replaced and its been perfectly fine since.
Wojo, is turning the rotor something I could do or would you suggest taking it to a brake shop?
Take the rotors to a professional to have them turned. Never try to turn them on a lathe unless you know what you're doing, or you'll do more harm than good. The shop will have all the tools to measure the thicknesses and make sure the surface is even and the thickness is in spec.
Opfer benotigt. Keine Erfahrung notwendig.
Victims needed. No experience necessary.
yeah. what he said. it only cost about 15 bucks for bothe of them and takes them 10 minutes. at least where i live anyways. but i didnt have to pay. my dad knows a guy. good stuff.
this could have saved u money from the wheel bearing ....future info hear is quick test..grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock (try to shake it) there should virtually be no play at all. then turn it a little bit in either direction and shake it should still be no play....if u have play at 12 and 6 turn it to 3 and 9 if u have play there then turn ur hands to 2 and 8 (i tihnk those are the number across form eachother) and if u still have play its ur bearings.
if u have play at 3 and 9 but not 12 and 6 then its ur tie rods
MY 2003 SUNFIRE 15.63@87.86mph
"A N/A ecotec is not gonna give Honda's and Mitsu's that much of a run for their
money unless their blown or bottle fed.GM is still smokin crack!"
~1QWKZ24
www.streetracing.org, 08/2001
no just yet, I won't have anytime to fix it until Presidents' Day. I have class all week and work all weekend, so this is the only time I have to really get my hands dirty.
