Ok, this last few weeks, I've noticed some sort of funky humming/grinding noise coming from the front end. I just rotated my tires so I thought maybe the lugs were working themselves loose. Checked them and they were fine. I noticed my brakes were pulsing a bit, so I figured, check the brakes. I jacked the car up and checked everything. The pads were a little worn but seemed like they had plenty of life left, and the rotors, although could prolly use a little turning, seemed to be in good shape. They're only about 4months old anyway. So I took the car for a test drive, and I noticed that if I'm going straight, there's a constant humming noise, maybe a wheel bearing? If I turn to the right even a tiny bit, the hum goes away. If I turn to the left, especially around a corner, the hum gets really fricken loud. And so again I am lead to believe it's a wheel bearing. But over the weekend I started hearing serious grinding noises and some clunking that I only hear when I take off from a dead stop and then let off the throttle suddenly. CV joint? And the grinding I notice more at low speeds, but it's only when the car is in motion. Yesterday I jacked the car up, and I noticed that both front wheels have a tiny bit of play, but nothing that would lead me to believe there's a serious problem. I want some ideas before I start tearing things apart. It just snowed here again and it's really fricken cold so the quicker I get done the better.
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Both front wheels have play, so replace both front hubs (wheel bearings are internal to the hubs)
So what am I looking at for cost? I'm pretty tight on cash so if I can replace the worst one now and then the other one next pay day... I'm guessing that since the noise stops when I turn into the passenger side, that the passenger side is the one that's really bad? Or is it the other way around... Never had a bad wheel bearing so I'm not sure.
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The part # is 7470014
Price for the part at a dealer is $170.22
OR
www.gmpartsdirect.com has it for $85.11 a peice.
They are easy to install so you should be able to do it yourself.
yep wheel bearing... replace them both or the front of ur car will be sitting with no tires if they get that bad
56$ a peice my cavi did the same.......
If one lets go at a high speed u could end up dead!!!
I just called Autozone and the said the hub assembly with the bearing is $64.95 for 3 mo warranty and like $79 for 1 yr warranty. I'm thinking do one at a time. So if the noise goes away when I turn right, that means the right one is the worst or the other way around?
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I would guess the other way around. If you think about it, when you turn right it puts all the pressure on the left side of your car meaning the left hub would be under more stress. Think about which side its mainly coming from too.
Well, it sounds to me like it's coming from the right, but I don't know for sure. It kind of sounds like it's coming from both, but when I turn right, I don't hear it. When I turn left, it sounds like my car is about to fall on its face. I thought maybe taking the pressure off the wheel would make the bearing stop whining, so when the weight shifts to the left and the noise stops, it leads me to think it's the right side that's about to eat itself and the left one is not that pissed off yet. That's why I'm wondering if I'm backwards on this. But hell, it's only money, maybe I'll jsut suck it up and replace them both. $130.00 for two new hubs, that's what, two nights I don't go to the bar? I can handle that if it means I don't f*uck up my car even more or get myself in a wreck.
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Usually if you turn left and it makes noise then it's the right that is bad, but I've seen it be the same as the turning side be bad too. If they're interchangeable then try the right side and if it's not right then just switch sides, they shouldn't be that hard so it'll be no big deal. Just don't put it off too long. I had a wheel bearing lock right up on me once, luckily I wasn't going fast because it could have been a lot worse.
napa $137. life time warn.........also I found the autozone hubs to be a BIG bucket of crap. 1 year warn and i fried the bearing in 3 months. Go napa and never have to bother with a crappy bearing again. NAPA man, NAPA
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2187947
Buddy of mine works for Car-X. I'm gonna talk to him today and see if he can get me a deal on parts. He managed to get a discount on some stuff at one of the local places but I can't remember where. Advance or Jockos or something. Both of them are right across the street from his work, so it's probably one of those. If I need to replace both I can't really afford $130 a piece.
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Just an update, I finally got off my arse and fixed the front wheel bearing this weekend, and I gotta say it's easier than what the Chilton manual says. I'm really not sure why it says remove the sway bar and axke shaft and bla bla bla. All I did was pull the brake caliper and rotor, remove the axle nut, the three torx bolts, give it a few smacks with a hammer, and... Viola, baby! Pulling the old one, cleaning the knuckle and bolting the new one on it took less than an hour from the time I jacked up the car to the time I sat her back down. Easy.
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So which wheel was it or did you replace both? I got the opposite problem, as in my car hums when I turn to the right. And what did you end up paying for the hub? Too bad my warranty is long gone...
thenetdog wrote:So which wheel was it or did you replace both? I got the opposite problem, as in my car hums when I turn to the right. And what did you end up paying for the hub? Too bad my warranty is long gone...
Mine was the driver side. Apparently, by shifting the weight of the car over the driver side loaded the bearing which caused it to turn smoothly. When I pulled it off I held it in my hand and spun the rotor, and I could hear and feel the bearing grind. The noise I was hearing from the right was the backing clip on the inner brake pad had somehow compressed so it was letting the pad bounce around. I bent it back to hold it tight until I have the new brakes (going slotted).
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I'll just guess and go for the passenger side. If it's wrong I could always leave the new one on that side and swap the good one into the driver side. Until that one goes out of course..
