just about to move my battery to the trunk and had a few questions... well mainly just one. Does anyone know if you HAVE to ground the black negative wire from the block to the battery tray out or can you just completley remove it and JUST ground out the negative out in the back somewhere. I was told by a few people you have to ground the ORIGINAL one out AND the new one, and some told me to completley remove the ORIGINAL one and just ground out the new one. Thanx
you can ground it to the frame, and when you put the batt in the trunk, you want to run a new ground wire to somewhere in the trunk....you never want a ground wire more than 3 feet, hell you don't want it any longer than it needs to be
You'll never touch God's hand
You'll never taste God's breath
Because you'll never see the second coming
Life's too short to be focused on insanity
I've seen the ways of God
I'll take the devil any day
Hail Satan
(slayer, skeleton christ, 2006)
mikec2003 wrote:you can ground it to the frame, and when you put the batt in the trunk, you want to run a new ground wire to somewhere in the trunk....you never want a ground wire more than 3 feet, hell you don't want it any longer than it needs to be
i know i have to run a new ground from the new spot in the back, but my questions is what to do with the original negative cable that is attached to the block. i was told to take it completley off or the car wont start, i was also told just to keep it and ground it out to the frame. i dont see why i cant completley remove it if i am creating a new ground spot from the new battery location.
the one from the block is a bonding strap, its to keep all parts of hte car at the same electrical potential, resulting from static buildup, you should keep it on, just find a new place to hook it up to....it should run with it removed, but you may as well just hook it up to a suitable grounding spot
You'll never touch God's hand
You'll never taste God's breath
Because you'll never see the second coming
Life's too short to be focused on insanity
I've seen the ways of God
I'll take the devil any day
Hail Satan
(slayer, skeleton christ, 2006)
mikec2003 wrote:the one from the block is a bonding strap, its to keep all parts of hte car at the same electrical potential, resulting from static buildup, you should keep it on, just find a new place to hook it up to....it should run with it removed, but you may as well just hook it up to a suitable grounding spot
hmmmm, so your saying it will work removed... but better with it just grounded...
as far as i know yes it should work removed, but you should hook it to ground.
see the purpose of that strap is like i said, your car builds up a static electricity charge, as does every part in the car. the engine has that strap hooking to the frame to equalize the static charge throughout the car so it does not create a spark which could cause trouble.
so basically will it run with the strap removed...yes
is it a good idea...no
id just drill a hole and hook it up, or find a bolt nearby and hook it to there
You'll never touch God's hand
You'll never taste God's breath
Because you'll never see the second coming
Life's too short to be focused on insanity
I've seen the ways of God
I'll take the devil any day
Hail Satan
(slayer, skeleton christ, 2006)
The purpose of the bonding strap is to complete the circuit from the chassis of the car to the engine block, to which is bolted the casing of the starter.
I once saw someone try to start a car(Not a Cav) where this bonding/earth wire from block to chassis was broken. On attempted start the manual choke cable acted as the bonding lead and went red hot, setting fire to a few things.
If you move the battery to the trunk and earth the negative of the battery there you have a return circuit from battery negative to chassis(But not to the Starter).
With the engine and transmission sitting on their rubber/plastic mounts you probably will not have a good path from chassis to engine block, this is why the designers incorporate the bonding lead connection.
It may also cause some weird faults with the computer.
I would definitely ensure that the cable is connected from block to battery tray (or another good earth/ground location) ideally the block to chassis connection should have zero or very low resistance.
Hope this helps
Alont
ok, you NEED a groud strap from the block to the body and from the block to the battery. becouse when the spark plug goes off the power is grounded to the head, which is grounded to the block, and the power must go somewhere from there. if it doesn't if you can even get the thing going what was stated above about the fires will happen. or you will just melt a bunch of stuff
as for putting the batt in the trunk. you can take the cars negative cable and attach it to the subframe or other thick steel area. and then in the back where the battery is attach the negative terminal (with 4 guage wire) through the trunk floor and onto the rear subframe or other thick steeled area. just make sure the holes you drill for this are threaded and all areas where the ground terminals touch the steel are sanded down and don't have paint on them. you may also want to seal them up so they don't rust.
why are you tryiing to put the batt in the trunk anyways?
oh yeah, if you take it to the track you will need to have an external cutoff swich to the positive wire somewhere on the back of the car
I don't know of any tracks that will let you make a pass with just the key sticking out of the trunk anymore
ok thanx for the help guys, the battery is being relocated to the trunk for better room under the hood for my turbo project.
this is the setup as i have planned out so far
that setup should work out
however you are making the battery + wire out to be more complicated than it has to? whenever I do them I just take the + terminal wire and the + battery wire and soldier them together. unless you need the junction box for a sound system or something. and what do you need the external jump post for? all I did when I needed to jump somebody is back the car up to them (which always confuses them) pull the top off the battery box and hook the cables right up to the battery
thanx for the input guys
NUTCASE: external posts will be used to jump the car if my battery dies, shaved door handles and locks all around
Shifted: how would you run the + wire from the starter?
I already said it once, save youself the trouble. just sloder the + batt and + terminal wire together and put you junction box (for amps and such) inline wth your battery wire
alright alright, this is what ive come down to. now im just getting input on what size fuse i should run between the batt and the junction block. Anyone know exactly how much current is running from the batt to the starter?
On most vehicles there is NO fuse in the cable from Battery to Starter.
The link to wolfsburgwest indicates 350 plus amps but as this depends upon lots of variables it could be a lot more instantaneously
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wired/wired_03_01/wired_03_01.htm
I would have 0 gauge cable all the way from Battery to Starter, then 4 ga from the starter terminal to the fuse box, introducing a shorter length of 4 ga and junctions between battery and starter is only introducing more possible points of higher resistance.
I like the diagrams, they are very clear and easy to read. How do you draw them?
Alont
i agree w/ nutcase on this one. there would be no provlem with re wiring it back into your orginaly positive battery cable. this is how i would run it:
also where did u run ur positive cable from the trunk to the front, inside the cabin, or under the car?
