Where's that post...? - General Forum

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Where's that post...?
Friday, April 11, 2008 11:32 AM
Where was that post with all the links to parts suppliers? Sorry, but I don't have a lot of time to search. I'll write it down... Thanks.

Re: Where's that post...?
Friday, April 11, 2008 12:41 PM
part suppliers for what? theres alot of companies

gravanatuning.com
aplusperformance.com
turbotechracing.com
carcustoms.net
rksport.com
airbagsource.com



Re: Where's that post...?
Friday, April 11, 2008 4:49 PM
I found a post the other day with about 40 links to all kinds of parts and accessories, but I didn't pay attention to where it was posted. I just joined, so I've been reading posts from months back. Who knows how old it might be... Anyway, I have some time, now, so I'll find it again. Thanks.
Re: Where's that post...?
Friday, April 11, 2008 4:59 PM
Also, thanks for those links. Some cool stuff. I just got my Cavi last week, so I'll eventually need EVERYTHING.
Re: Where's that post...?
Saturday, April 12, 2008 10:30 AM
The Rebirth of AAG Pioneer! wrote:part suppliers for what? theres alot of companies

gravanatuning.com
aplusperformance.com
turbotechracing.com
carcustoms.net
rksport.com
airbagsource.com


All of those companies except rksport are avtive on this site. And all good companies to deal with.
I have bought from both Turbo Tech Racing and Gravana Tuning. great companies



Re: Where's that post...?
Saturday, April 12, 2008 4:55 PM

This was Dazink's FAQ from 2004. I've revamped it with modern links and more goodies!!!

I also tried to include anything relevant in the replies. I kept the exclusive how-tos when it came to body work out (though i did throw in painting o.O). If you know how to do body work and paint, the information is useless. If you do not, you should not attempt to do so. As stated several times in this, find a person who does body work everyday and learn from them, reading something on the internet will not teach you everything you need to know to do it right.

The original FAQ can be found here - http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=7&i=227591&t=227562&

-------

Second Gen Owners: This is both an addition and and a updated revision to my sticky in the second generation forum. (more part sources and how-tos can be found here).... next on my list is to revise the sticky in the second generation forum!!

-ExtremeDelusions / IMCensored1

--------

This is compiled FAQ for the exterior forum. The exterior of the j-bodies is usually the first thing that people see, so naturally you would want to make a good impression. You can do this with simple things such as shaving badges and tint, to the extreme of molded wide body kits and such. I have seen many of the same questions over and over, which can all be answered, via the SEARCH button I know, however, that it is easy to find something when one knows where to search. I hope this will help many people when it comes to making their car great looking.

DISCLAIMER: This is by no means all-inclusive. I do not have all the answers, but I do have a decent bit of knowledge in the area. There are those out there who are experts in this field. The only reason I do this, is to take up time at work and so those who have a life and are busy working on their cavaliers don’t have to If you happen to see an error and KNOW it to be false or incorrect, please post the correction and tell me why I am wrong. That’s why the JBO is here: for us to learn.

First and foremost, the biggest question many people ask, “Will this kit look good with these rims and that wing and etc. etc.etc.???” I can’t answer that. I am not you, and I do not have your taste as far as appearance goes. Each person has the own unique taste in cars that is why there is such diversity in the JBO. As long as you like it that is all that matters. We do not have to look at your car everyday.

As with modifying any part of a car, there are two routes to take: the right way, and the wrong way. What distinguishes right from wrong? Time and money. The great saying “You get what you pay for” is what I am talking about. If you try to get cheap body kits, cheap paint, and cheap work, then you will have a cheap looking car and, then you will have to start from square one. “But I like the way my car looks, even if it looks cheap to you. Didn’t you just say that as long as I like it its okay???” Yes I did, but it won’t stay that way for long. It will get worse. Cheap kits break, and cheap paint chips and peals. Your car will go from looking cheap to looking like it needs to be shot and put out if its misery. Again, I can’t tell you what to do, many people will have find out the hard way.

Also, I do not know much about 1st and 2nd generation jbodies. Please input any info you can. Sunfire owners, I know what I post is true for cavaliers, but I am uncertain about certain things for sunfires. Please post any corrections or additional info.

For most things that you buy you can install yourself, especially lights and spoilers. Body kits, and hoods, fenders, can be installed by yourself, but remember that fitment might be an issue. It is best to research the company you buy from and how their fitment goes. You may have to let body shops install certain items for you. Again, time and money determine how a car will look.

Part Sources
These lists are from www.jbodysource.org formerly www.j-body.tk. Some links may be repeated as companies provide different parts.

Phases listed below are for Cavaliers. I'm not sure exactly how the Phases are setup for Sunbirds/Sunfires. -- However the part sources are for Cavaliers & Sunfires/Sunbirds --

First Generation - http://www.jbodysource.org/wiki/FirstGenExteriorPartSources
- Chevy Auto-body Parts Store - http://www.chevyautobodypartstore.com/

Second Generation
- Phase I (1988 - 1990) - http://www.jbodysource.org/wiki/SecondGenExteriorPartSources
- Phase II (1991 - 1994) - http://www.jbodysource.org/wiki/SecondGenP2ExteriorPartSources

New Body Parts
- Mill Supply, Inc. - Phase I and II

Drag Race Body Parts
- VFN Fiberglass - Phase I and II

Body Kits
You may see these kits sold at different sites, but these are the original manufacturers.
- FX Designs - Phase I and II
- OnDerGround - Phase I and II
- Razzi - Phase I and II
- VIS Racing - Phase II Only
- Aerotrends - Phase II Only

Fenders
- FX Designs - Phase I and II

Hoods
- FX Designs - Phase I and II
- Class Glass Performance - Phase I and II

Grills
- Class Glass Performance - Phase I and II
- Custom Grill in V6Z24.com's Howto Section - Phase I and II

Taillights
- Altered Images - Phase I and II

Corner Lights
- Pro Car Parts - Phase II Only

Third Generation
- Phase I (1995 - 1999) - http://www.jbodysource.org/wiki/ThirdGenP1ExteriorPartSources
- Phase II (2000 - 2002) - http://www.jbodysource.org/wiki/ThirdGenP2ExteriorPartSources
- Phase III (2003 - 2005) - http://www.jbodysource.org/wiki/ThirdGenP3ExteriorPartSources

Body Kits:
- Winks Online - Phase I + II + III
- Andy’s Auto Sport - Phase I + II + III
- FX Designs - Phase I + II + III
- Sound Speed Sports - Phase I + II + III
- JT Autostyle - Phase I + II + III
- RK Sport - Phase I + II + III
- Car Customs - Phase I + II + III
- Buddy Club 2 - Phase I + II + III
- Razzi - Phase I + II + III
- White Boy Style - Phase I + II + III
- A Plus Performance - Phase I + II + III
- Gravana Tuning - Phase I + II + III
- Modified Motorsports - Phase I + II + III
- VIS Racing - Phase I + II + III
- Aerotrends - Phase I + II + III

Fenders:
- Winks Online - Phase I + II + III
- Krazy Kustoms - Phase I + II + III
- A Plus Performance - Phase I + II + III
- Modified Motorsports - Phase I + II + III

Hoods:
- Class Glass Performance -
- Wings West - Phase I + II + III
- Winks Online - Phase I + II + III
- RK Sport - Phase I + II + III
- Sound Speed Sports - Phase I + II + III
- White Boy Style - Phase I + II + III
- A Plus Performance - Phase I + II + III
- Gravana Tuning - Phase I + II + III
- Modified Motorsports - Phase I + II + III

Head Lights:
- Modified Motorsports - Phase I + II + III


Tail Lights:
- RK Sport - Phase I + II + III
- Winks Online - Phase I + II + III
- Modified Motorsports - Phase I + II + III

Corner Lights:
- RK Sport - Phase I + II + III
- Modified Motorsports - Phase I + II + III

Spoilers/Wings:
- RK Sport - Phase I + II + III
- Winks Online - Phase I + II + III
- Car Customs - Phase I + II + III
- Gravana Tuning - Phase I + II + III
- Modified Motorsports - Phase I + II + III

Mirrors:
- Gravana Tuning - Phase I + II + III
- Modified Motorsports - Phase I + II + III

Lambo Doors:
- Gravana Tuning - Phase I + II + III
- Modified Motorsports - Phase I + II + III


Quick List of Goodies:
First Generation Info:
---I do not know too much about the first gens... anyone wanna add to this, feel free---

Second Generation Info:
1) Hoods on 2nd Gen J-bodies are the same for that car from 88-94.
2) Fenders are all the same on 2nd Gen J-Bodies.
3) Various Bumper styles. Each Phase has a Basic (VL Model) bumper and a sports-like Z24 Model Bumper. RS models could have either.
4) Trunk lids are the same from 88 - 94, however the trim at the bottom is different (but swapable) between a Cavalier and a Sunbird.
5) All Sunbirds (88-94) kept the same headlight and taillight setup that all Phase I (88-90) Cavaliers.
6) Changes to Phase II (91 - 94) Cavaliers from Phase I include
- Only 1 taillight bulb for brakes and turn signals.
- Front Corner Lights flare out farther to match the new headlights.
- Headlights use only 1 9004 bulb for high beams and low beams. they also stick out farther.
7) Information regarding Headlight and taillight swaps between the phases can be found below.

Third Generation Info:
1) Hoods on 3rd Gen J-bodies are the same for that car from 95-02, 03+ is different.
2) Fenders are all the same on 3rd Gen Jbodies
3) Three different bumpers for 3rd Gen: 95-99, 00-02, 03+
4) Trunk lids for cavaliers are same throughout 95+
5) Trunk lid for sunfires changed in 03
6) Side skirts are interchangeable between sunfires and cavaliers.
7) Some side skirts are interchangeable between 4door and 2door jbodies (ex. Importfighter, z24, buddyclub 2, anything that does not flare up at all)
8) If you have 00-02 base model cav, and you want the z24/LS lips, the easiest part would be the buy the whole front bumper. There are many holes cut into the bottom side of the bumper for the clips to run through. You can do it yourself, but it takes time. You decide.

General Info
1) Yes there are convertible jbodies. It would be very hard though to convert you non-convertible into one. I suggest against it, just go out and buy one.
2) Yes a targa-top (sp?) Can be done, but will lots of fabrication. If you know what you are doing, then I do not have to explain what needs to be done. If I need to explain, you have no business even thinking about it.

Now onto the good stuff:


Badges and Side Moldings:
Here is a post. Read this and all you questions shall be answered. The same goes for badges. Just use the same technique as you did the molding. This question is asked frequently. Thank Streaker for such a nice indepth post.

How to Shave Badges & Moldings

Tint:
Tinting a car is another small thing. Some places do charge a bit of money for it, but you don’t have to do any work. I know where I live it cost about $150 to tint the whole car. Each place is different. Shop around and research the quality of work of different shops. The tint lets in a percentage of light. If you tint your windows to 40%, then you are only letting in 40% of light into your car. You can install it yourself, but it’s not the easiest thing, and if done incorrectly you will get hairs, dirt, and other things trapped between the tint and the windows. I do not know legal tint in your state. Look it up at your local courthouse, or call up and ask at a tint shop. They will know. “Can I still tint darker than the legal limit?” Sure. I have 5% tint on mine, and the legal limit is 35%. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. I CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE IF A COP GIVES YOU A TICKET. I have just been lucky, and I also ride around with my windows down most of the time.

Tinting laws per each US State (as of 07/19/07) (PDF file): http://www.iwfa.com/iwfa/Law_Chart/State%20Law%20Chart%207-19-07.pdf
Tinting laws in Canada (HTML file): http://www.iwfa.com/iwfa/Consumer_Info/auto_provincelaws.html
Tinting laws in Europe (PDF File): http://www.iwfa.com/iwfa/Law_Chart/EWFA%20Tint%20Laws.pdf


Lights:
This seems to be a much-debated topic about lights on our cars. There are so many questions that are asked daily so I will try to include all that I can.

Headlights-
This is an important part of the car. These help you see at night. If you try to go cheap on these, you will regret it when you can’t see past your hood at night. As it is, there are only a few companies who make projector headlights for 3rd generation cavaliers, and none who make them for sunfires (sorry guys). However, there is hope…..well a small bit. If you must have projector lights, I suggest you learn to custom to make your own, or work with the cheap ones. WinksOnline might be in the works for some projectors for sunfires.

APC does make headlight covers for cavaliers. Remember, covering the headlights cuts down on your visibility at night, so check to see if it is legal where you live before installing these. Check ebay for the complete headlight covers.

Second Generation
Information on the infamous BMW E36 headlight Swap can be found here for both Phases (Thanks to BrooksoffroadZ24 and ExtremeDelusions/Imcensored1) - http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/bmw-headlight-swap-how-to-phase-1-and-2-t58434.html

Corner Lights/Bumper Lights
These lights tell people ahead of you, and beside you if you are switching lanes while driving, if you actually use them . So again, caution when fooling with these, or you might run into a nasty situation if someone cuts you off because they didn’t see that you were changing lanes.
There clear corners for cavaliers and sunfires. You can find these anywhere and they are usually cheap. 95-99 cavalier, you best bet is use ebay. 2000-2002, I would suggest making your own clear lenses to save money. There is a how-to in the library, but can buy them as well.

00-02 clear corner how to

There are also the Toyota Cavalier corner lights. =GreenZ= has a set. I think they look nice and subtle. Most people think they look too much like stock lights to bother. Again, it’s your car, you decide. You can find these either I the classifieds if you’re lucky or at your GM dealership. You will need the part number for the corner lights which I was not able to find. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE POST THE PART NUMBER FOR THE CORNER LIGHTS FOR CAVALIER 95-99. THANK YOU

Second Generation
Cornerlights are interchangeable between the phases and between the Cavaliers and Sunbirds(as the fenders are no different). But if you have a Sunbird or Phase I Cavalier, make sure you swap to Phase II Headlights as well as Phase I corners and headlights do not stick out as far. Same thing for vice versa.


Taillights
The part you have been waiting for. 3rd gen Cavalier owners, you have your pick from just about any kind of taillight you can possibly want. Altezzas, C/F, etc. etc. Again, it’s your car get what taillights you think look best what you have. One favorite is also the Toyota tails. There are two styles, 95-99 and 00-02. There is a little work involved in installing these.

Here are the GM part numbers for Toyota Tails:
2000+ outer right 22628442
2000+ outer left 22628443
2000+ inner right 22602878
2000+ inner left 22602879
96-99 right outer 22626394
96-99 left outer 22626395
96-99 right inner 55977632
96-99 left inner 55977631

Sunfire Owners. From 95-02 You have the retro style taillights. That’s all you have. The 4door owners can use taillights from a cavalier however. 03+ Sunfire owners now have euro lights and such. I am just the messenger so don’t hate me.
You cannot use cavalier taillights for sunfire coupes. You can use them for sunfire sedans.

Again, it’s important to realize that your brake lights are very important. They alert people behind when you are braking. Taillight covers and such can make it difficult to see the lights. Use caution before installing such items.

Second Generation
Altered Images makes taillights for All Phases. A link can be found in the part sources. These are custom lights made from OEMs.

Another popular swap is for Phase I Cavaliers and Sunbirds to go to Phase II Cavalier Tails. This is very similar to a third gen going to Toyota Cavalier tails. Except in exact opposite.

How to go from Phase I to Phase II - http://www.v6z24.com/howto/tailswap

Phase I Cavalier lights will interchange with Sunbird tails. The only things you need is the trim piece that goes under the taillights, and the talights themselves. Going from Phase II to sunbird will require some work. As stated before the bottom trim piece needs to be replaced, additionally you have to separate the turn signals from the brake lights. I've yet to do this (though i need to with my Skyline R32 tails). From what ive been told, it has to be done under the dash. The white wire off the brakes has to be cut and re-ran to the back.

Check This Thread Out - The official modded tail light sticky on V6Z24.com

Underbody Lights:
Yes, there are kits for these as well. I would caution against use while driving. Mr. Officer might not like them.

Street Glow is where they are at - www.streetglow.com

Spoilers/Wings
Okay I am going to go out and let everyone know this. ALUMINUM WINGS HAVE NO FUNCTION OF OUR CARS WHATSOEVER. YOU CAR DOES NOT GO FAST ENOUGH AND IS FRONT WHEEL DRIVE. With that being said, you may choose an aluminum wing for cosmetic purposes (though don't expect to impress anyone). This is up to you, do what you want. Ebay has many wings for sell, and check the classifieds here as well.

For those of you who might want something else you can always by the smaller spoilers. A spoiler from a jbody of any year will fit another cavalier of the same generation..except 2003+ cavalier. The reflector on the trunk will get in the way of the 2000 z24 spoiler.

Also, you can make your own spoiler. Many people have done so, or have used spoilers from other cars. Just might take a little imagination to get them to work.

Hoods:
Jbodies are blessed with many different styles of hoods. Again, I cannot say what will look best on your car. You have a brain, decide for yourself. Some info on hoods: 95-02 Cavaliers use the same hood. The same goes for the sunfires. In 2003 the hoods changed for both. Hoods will cost you a pretty penny, so save up.

Second Generation
The stock Z24 hood is made of fibreglass, and the cowl induction scoops are functional. It weighs nearly 45 Lbs. Almost every Carbon fibre one out for our cars weighs about 38 lbs. Carbon fibre is only for looks with our cars, 7 lbs is hardly a weigh reduction.

Fenders:
The fenders for the Cavalier and Sunfires are the same for all third gens. Some have bracket for the corner lights, some do not, but they are the same. Many styles are available for both the Cavalier and Sunfire, ranging from z3, the X1, and so forth.

Looking for inserts - use the VIS Racing link in the part sources

Second Generation
The fenders are also the same for all second gens. FX Designs has the VSX fenders for our cars.

Looking for inserts - use the VIS Racing link in the part sources


Body Kits:
The part you have all been waiting for. This is where a car can be completely transformed into an exotic looking beast. Body kits range from simple lip kits, to complete bumper replacements, to widebody molding kits. Kits can be bought whole or separately, and sometimes mixing and matching is a good idea. However, I suggest you make sure the kit will flow well if you are mixing it up. It would not look right for the front bumper to be the highest part of the car, or for the bumpers to be slick and smooth, but the skirts are crazy and wavey…you get my drift. Cheap knock-offs are available on Ebay, but that is all they are: cheap knock offs. The material is weak, and will therefore break easily.
There are three types of bodykits though. Polyurethane and Fiberglass, and newly Bendable fibreglass (you can twist it like urethane and repair it like fibreglass)

Urethane kits are very strong and durable. They are basically plastic kits. Downfall is that they are expensive, and not always easy to find.

Fiberglass is cheaper than urethane, but not as durable. Fiberglass however, is easy to fix if cracked. Fiberglass kits are also easy to mold to the car. It’s all on what you want out of your kit to determine what suits you best.

Search around for the best price and quality.

DISCLAIMER: If I am wrong, then moderators please delete this. I was lead to believe by previous post on the JBO, that the Carbon Fiber products for our cars are no more than fiberglass with a single layer of C/F. True carbon fiber would not break or crack.

Other things that can be done:
We have covered now what most people do. However there are further steps that can be taken to make your car, truly a show car, or truly stand out in the crowd.

Side Skirts for 4 Door Third Gen Cavaliers

Cavalier/Sunfire Swaps
Yes you can swap the front end of a cavalier with that of a sunfire. It is not hard either. You will need the following items from for the front end.
Hood
Headlights
Headlights Wireharness
Hood Latch
Fenders
Front Bumper

Everything bolts on. You just have to splice the wires for the headlights depending on what year and make you are using. The back ends, however, are a different story. The rear quarter panels are completely different, and therefore you cannot interchange them. 4door sunfires, however, can use the rear bumper from a cavalier.
If you have more questions I suggest emailing the following people. They have performed the swap themselves.
03 Cav Fire
Cheeter

This is a nice post for all those who want to go from 95-99 to 00-02 headlights. Very nice diagram and instructions.

Drop Top Paul's Front End Swap

Second Generation
Ive included as much info as possible about Cavalier => Sunfire and vice versa swaps in each appropriate section above

Mirrors
Like taillights, there are many different styles of mirrors available for the jbodies.
IMPORTANT. 2 door and 4 doors have different style mirros.

Toyota Cavalier Swap How-To - http://www.jbodysource.org/wiki/MultiGenExteriorToyotaCavMirrorWiring

Suicide Doors:
Yes they can be done, and yes it has been done. Is it easy? No. There is a lot of fabrication involved, and you will probably have to shave you door handles (I will get to that in a sec).

Lambo Doors:
It has been, and is becoming quite popular. There are two kits available, and both seem to be very reliable. These are not cheap things, however, and will run you a pretty penny. Remember, expensive things are good. Your doors are very important, and an expensive kit will mean that doors do not fly off when you drive down the hi-way.

Lambo Door Install
Thank john317 for the wonderful walkthough on that.

Heres a tip on Lambo doors. If you daily drive the vehicle, you probably DO NOT want to do it. Lambo shocks (from the cheap to expensive kits) were made to be used once or twice a week... not 4 or 5 times a day. Shocks sometimes are not all that cheap to replace.

Molding Body Kits:
If you do not know how to mold, your best bet is to go to a custom body shop and let them do it. Average prices should be about $150 a side (with 4 sides).

Its NOT recommended to mold the front bumper, as it will be difficult to do repairs to the motor unless you break the mold to remove the front bumper.

Another tip... The cheaper the kit, the more likely you will have to mold it to make it fit right. After molding costs, you're right back to spending as much as a good kit. $1200 + Shipping is not a bad price for a body kit, because those will fit your car 9 times out of 10 and are usually 7 layer or 3 ply fibreglass.

I've noticed several tips about molding. Heres the truth. If you know how to mold you dont need the tips. If you don't, reading on the internet will not help you. Find a body person and have them teach you.

Shave Locks/Door Handles
A lot of people do this for show cars. The car does look very sexy and sleek. There is a lot of work involved however.

Here is a good post on it

What Metal To Use

Dont Forget the Door Poppers

Here is some info in case you would want a shop to do it

This is a very good How-To. Please remember to thank KavKy for the very detailed process:
KavKy's How To

Basically, you first want to make sure your window seal is good. a bad window seal = water on the poppers, which will shorten their life.

Make sure you weld up the spot where your door handle was. Using fibreglass to fill it will just make it crack later.

AutoLoc - www.thehoffmangroup.com - makes universal popper kits and also just sells the solenoids. On a Second Generation J 35 Lb poppers are acceptable but 50 Lbs are recommended.

NOTE: if you daily drive your vehicle, you probably do not want to shave your handles. Poppers were made to be used 1 to 2 times a month, not 4 to 5 times a day. Solenoids are not usually that cheap to replace either.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE: MOST OF THE SITES ABOVE ARE POINTED TOWARDS CAVALIERS, HOWEVER SUNFIRE OWNERS SHOULD BE ABLE TO FIND WHAT THEY NEED BY SEARCHING AROUND ON THE SITES

Paint:
This is an important part of the car. Paint not only makes the car look nice and taken care of, but it shields the car from the elements of nature. If a car is cheaply painted, then the car has little protection and can start to rust. Rust = BAD.
One of the most important things to consider when painting a car is preparation. Again, if you are painting you own car, you do not need to hear this. If you don't know what I am talking about, then I suggest you learn or take your car else where to be painted. A car must be sanded down, primered, sanded, primered again, so and so forth. All the dents and dings and scratches must be taken out. This is very tedious work. If the car is being painted a completely different color, then all the jams (doors, hood, trunk, engine bay) must be painted to match.
So what does all this mean? A quality paint job will cost $$$$
A show car paint job that will win shows will cost $$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Will Maaco do a good job? Yes and No
It really depends on the Maaco and who owns and runs it. It also depens on the amount of money you spend. I myself have seen Maaco jobs, and I am impressed. The people spent around $600 (remember this is in Alabama, prices will vary). The color was not changed, but kits were painted to match.

Custom Body Shops
You're going to be looking at anywhere between $1200 and $5000 at a custom body shop. Most reputible shops will do door jams and such and use better taping methods than macco. They also tend to use Base + Clear paint and Base + Mid + Clear paint... $1200 will be closer to a Scratch and Shoot same color paint job and $5000 is closer to Marble, Kandy, Ice, Chamelion paints.

Painting Body Kits
Certain Body kits require special prepping before they are painted. Ask your local shop if the paint and warrant your body kit. When you take your kit to be prepped and painted, the kits should be removed from the car and individually prepped and painted. If the kit is molded, then you need not worry. Why does each part need to be painted seperately? Painting the parts seperately allows for all cracks and crevasses to be reached, and helps reduce the chances or cracking and peeling.

So how much for a paint job for this and that and etc???
Shop around and ask. You can spend anywhere from $600 dollars up to $5000. It all depends on what you want and how much you wanna spend, and what all is being done, ie prep, and how much paint.

Type Of Paints
I'm leaving this separate of the painting section because this has to do with purchasing paint (which the paint shop should do for you)

Rattle Cans:
- Dupli-color
- Krylon (stay away from Fusion, as is not a high heat paint)
- Rustolium

there are more but i can't think of them ATM

Its not recommended to Rattle Can primer a whole car, it may cause the paint to react when it is sprayed.

Spray Gun Paints:
- Du Pont (Hot Hues are nice)
- House of Kolor
- PPG
- Naisen (Cheap) (Du Pont's Offbrand)
- Chroma (Not cheap)
- Sherwin WIlliams
- X-Otic

Sanding and Prepping
DISCLAIMER: You should already know this if you're going to do this yourself.

sanding:
-This is where you take down the high spots and give your primer a surface to adhere. Basically if you have alot of material to take down, you can use 60-80 grit to start, then as you get closer to you desired surface sep up to 120 grit, 320 or 400. Primer can be put on a little heavy to fill in pinholes. Don't worry about runs in the primer they can be sanded out.

When to use primer or sealer:
-If you have filler, factory primer and/or bare metal to cover use primer. If you are covering old paint use primer/sealer ( the definition is stated in my above post) Basically after the primer is all sprayed SEAL IT.

Spray gun 101:
-There are many types/brands of spray guns. You will want to use an HVLP (high volume low pressure). Some call this a top load gun. You are going to need at least 2 different guns when doing a paint (depending on how complex it is).
You will need 1 gun set up for primer ( cause it is usually thicker than paint). One gun for you base/clear. The difference between the guns is the tip or nozzle size. For primer you will want to have between a 1.5mm and 1.8mm tip depending on the thickness of the material. Your base/clear gun should be around 1.2mm to 1.4mm.

Another way to do this is to just get a spec sheet when you buy your primer/paint and whatnot. When purchasing a gun (you get what you pay for) dont just go to Lowes and buy one. Well for a primer gun you could get away with it. Autobody supply stores sell guns. Here are some good names when shopping, Binks, Sata, Devilbiss, 3M, accuspray. I have a Star astro which has a 1.3mm tip, I only payed 129.00 for it, it sprays very nice. I am going to get a Sata Jet 2000 with a 1.4mm tip soon. It is a bit pricey 498.00. I have an old Binks 1.8mm tip for primer. Also you will need to get an adjustable regulator that mounts between the airline and the gun. Some of the better guns come with them. Cleaning instructions are in the box.

-surface prep after all of the sanding and before primer wipe the area to be primed with wax and grease remover.

After wax and grease remover (which for those who don't know, it's kinda a wax on wax off type of thing... no it's NOT wax). You DO have to wipe it off really good. After wax and grease removing, you want to use a tack cloth and go over the surface to be painted LIGHTLY.

And... PEOPLE WHO ARE INEXPERIENCED WITH PAINTING SHOULD NOT WETSAND THEIR BASE COAT!!! ESPECIALLY IF IT'S METALLIC!!!!! (I bolded that in case anyone actually reads this instead of making a post on how to paint)

Another thing... (to those with no or little experience wanting to paint)
******************************READ THIS*****************************************

ORANGE PEEL IS NORMAL!!!! I'm so tired of hearing people say that their paint job is crappy because there is orange peel in it. Go to about any new car dealership, look at the brand new cars... and I'd be willing to bet every one of them has orange peel.

If you want to get rid of your orange peel for a show paint job... I recommend taking it to a shop and having them paint it.

Also....

MORE LAYERS OF PAINT IS NOT A GOOD THING!!!! I hear people all the time saying "Well oh yeah? My car has 14 coats of paint and 16 coats of clear... I have an awesome paint job".

FYI, in the days of modern car painting, more layers/coats of paint is actually A VERY BAD THING.

Think of it this way... Take a very thin piece of plastic. If you bend it, it will flex and not crack... usually. Take a really thick piece of plastic. IF you get it to flex, odds are it's going to break/crack. The thicker the paint, the more prone to cracking and "spidering" it is. Never put on any more paint than you need.

Cleaning/Detailing Cars
Link

This should cover the major areas.

I need to go to www.jbodysource.org and update its website and remove dead links and add new ones...




Edited 10 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, September 19, 2007 1:10 PM

-Kyle
Leader Speedline Second Gen - http://www.speedlinemotorsports.org/
93 Cavalier VL - All Show
00 Cavalier Z24 - Daily Driven / Some Go
Chief Information Officer - Versatile Signs & Auto Designs, Inc.





Re: Where's that post...?
Monday, April 14, 2008 12:39 AM
Doyle
To answer your question below,
"CAN SOMEONE PLEASE POST THE PART NUMBER FOR THE CORNER LIGHTS FOR CAVALIER 95-99. THANK YOU"
following are the part numbers for the Side Marker light housings:
Right side - 5978064
Left side - 5978063

Hope that is what you were looking for.


98 Z24

RIP Specks
Re: Where's that post...?
Monday, April 14, 2008 9:44 PM
Oh, man! The one thing I need, no one can help me with... More money. I can't believe how much more stuff is available for J- bodies since the last time I drove one (Summer of '03). I really regret selling my '02 LS. It would be so nice by now... Oh well, I'll get the '05 going - as money allows . Thanks for everything.
Re: Where's that post...?
Tuesday, April 15, 2008 5:28 PM
Actually i was just posting a Sticky thread thats located on the exterior fourm

i thought you were looking for aftermarket companys .....my bad !




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