How much paint to paint a vert? I have been doing my homework as far as prep, primer, etc. I'm going to paint the car with a single stage flat red. Hoping for it to look halfway decent until i can afford a pro job, cant look worse than it does now with the peeling clear. What I can't figure out is how much paint to buy to do the job.
why not save the prepaint cost before the professional paint and wait for that. bu ti am guessing somewhere around 8 or 9 rattle cans.
Im not using rattle cans, im using a hvlp gun and an air compressor. I want to do it as right as possible(minus the paint booth). It will probably be a couple years before I will be willing to put the money out for a professional job, I have other more important financial plans. The paint im looking at is about $180/gallon with reducer and hardener included. But being a vert if I can get away with 2 quarts why spend the money on a gallon?
Depending on the mix ratio (which will of course determine your actual amount of sprayable substrate), 2 quarts should be fine. Most SS paints ive dealt with btw are usually 8:1:2 mixes
Awesome, thanks! This stuff says its 4:1:1, it's kustomshop flat corvette red.
that is pricey paint. for the job your doing.
FU Tuning
I agree, but I can't find any satin red that is cheaper.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Firethorn-Red-Pearl-Gallon-Kit-Single-Stage-ACRYLIC-URETHANE-Car-Auto-Paint-Kit-/200826507021?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item2ec2314f0d&vxp=mtr
This is a cheap basic clear and it's urethane so it'll last long to. Less than $100 for the hardener and base. It's about 70 for urethane clear (Do a search on ebay). If you're using a
Quote:
im using a hvlp gun and an air compressor.
<---- Unless you are using a 60+ gallon air tank with a running HP of at least 5.5 you will need to take your time. It is very possible to do a nice paint job with small compressors. Just a word of advice though, if you have a air valve on your gun to adjust air pressure turn it down a little bit on the clear coat stage and run about a 25% overlap. It'll keep ya from having to buff much and will still pull out a nice paint job.
You drive a cavalier? Why yes... yes I do.
I was actually looking at this color
click me for link!
I do like the color you showed as well, kind of looks like cayenne red. Also thanks for the tips.
Tyler Ewy wrote:If you're using a Quote:
im using a hvlp gun and an air compressor.
<---- Unless you are using a 60+ gallon air tank with a running HP of at least 5.5 you will need to take your time. It is very possible to do a nice paint job with small compressors. Just a word of advice though, if you have a air valve on your gun to adjust air pressure turn it down a little bit on the clear coat stage and run about a 25% overlap. It'll keep ya from having to buff much and will still pull out a nice paint job.
Actually it all depends on the gun you're using. Obviously, alot of the hvlp guns out there are absolute air hogs and need the higher cfm requirement, but there's a good selection out there that don't. My 60 gal is only 3hp and keeps up just fine...now I've been using a RP gun alot lately, but even my higher demand guns are covered. Anywho, like said, even with a small compressor you can do a decent job moving slowly and letting the compressor catch up.
To the OP...what size/cfm compressor do you have and what is the cfm requirement of your gun(s)? Couple things to think about. If you're using a small compressor...say 1.5-2hp 20 gallon home depot special...a typical hvlp gun will have a high demand and will have pressure drops after spraying one panel..which may change what paint system you decide on. If that's the setup youre working with, you can go with a basecoat that can be used with different temp reducers so you can make it work for your conditions, i.e. If you need to shoot panel by panel to give the compressor recoupe time, choose a slow reducer so your first coat of paint doesn't flash up too before being able to spray the next, and so on (and your different reducer temps can give you better ability to work with whatever climate conditions you'll be working in.
Secondly, I'd advice against the 25% overlap, ESPECIALLY with satin. Satin in the hands of an inexperienced painter (or just inexperienced with satin) is tougher than glosses, and reduced overlap in your passes almost guarantees tiger striping..ask me how I know. My first ever satin job was streaky as hell and it took me a little practice to get a good technique down.
And definitely make sure you have a pressure regulator on your gun handle...important info to have, especially to calculate your cap pressure.
I am probably going to rent an air compressor. I only have a 3 gallon 3hp unit. Thanks for the other advice. Not sure what the specs on my gun are, I bought it used. It does have the adjustment on the handle though.
go to a carquest with paint i think they can fix wht ever colour u want
JBO since July 30, 2001
Zs Z wrote:I am probably going to rent an air compressor. I only have a 3 gallon 3hp unit. Thanks for the other advice. Not sure what the specs on my gun are, I bought it used. It does have the adjustment on the handle though.
Yea, lol, definitely rent one. If you can rent something like a 5hp gas powered, you'll be golden. Just make sure to run a water filter. Lowes/home depot should have some small glass ones with pressure adjustment for like $20. All it takes is a few drops of water to ruin a paint job.
As far as paint goes, I can get you PPG urethane basecoat for far less than retail price. PPG also makes a satin/matte clear called Flexed n Flat. It has a little more sheen than a true flat, almost a satin. Might be what you're goin for. Just a thought
Lol ya def. not a 25% over on satin.
Quote:
Not sure what the specs on my gun are, I bought it used. It does have the adjustment on the handle though.
. Where did you buy the gun? Even when I was in tight places I bought a Wal-Mart gun and it held up to finish a job. I would still advise to turn down the gun if your using any type of urethane paints.
You drive a cavalier? Why yes... yes I do.
Thanks for the input and thanks for the offer on the paint! Not sure what I'm going to do now. The shop fixed the tea quarter and painted it and the passenger door. It looks really good in the factory res so I might have the pros paint a section at a time.
