So like the title says... what are some of the best places on the web to check out used sportbikes? I've looked on ebaymotors, and I've also looked at cycletrader.com. I'm looking primarily at the Suzuki GSX-R600 or Yamaha R6.
Also, is there a website similar to kbb.com or edmunds.com where I can view retail, trade, and private party pricing for new and used bikes? I'd also like to see invoice pricing for new bikes as well.
Finally, since this will be my first bike, is there anything in particular I should look for when buying used? Obviously I don't want something that has been wrecked or abused, but are there any experienced riders/owners who know anything I should be aware of?
Thanks in advance guys.
Always be a little suspicious of anything on ebay. There are scams on there all the time for bikes. Anything that has been dropped or looks rough stay away from . Stunt bikes are beat to shreads. Cycle Trader is a good place to go and you are better off going private party if you can. Local buying is the best way so you can see the bike first hand. Also some bikes are ridden for many miles and anything over 10k on a bike is high. The Yamaha's are nice but you will be doing more maintenence on them compared to the Suzuki Gixers. So remember ebay beware , private party if possible with your loan situation, Local if possible, dropped and scratched no no, nothing over 10k miles,No stunt bikes, Yamaha's not as reliable as the Suzuki's. And check the rear tire for abuse . Hope that helps.
Windy City TurboZ
Don't forget to check out craigslist, thats where i got mine.
Dragracemyz24 wrote:Always be a little suspicious of anything on ebay. There are scams on there all the time for bikes. Anything that has been dropped or looks rough stay away from . Stunt bikes are beat to shreads. Cycle Trader is a good place to go and you are better off going private party if you can. Local buying is the best way so you can see the bike first hand. Also some bikes are ridden for many miles and anything over 10k on a bike is high. The Yamaha's are nice but you will be doing more maintenence on them compared to the Suzuki Gixers. So remember ebay beware , private party if possible with your loan situation, Local if possible, dropped and scratched no no, nothing over 10k miles,No stunt bikes, Yamaha's not as reliable as the Suzuki's. And check the rear tire for abuse . Hope that helps.
Wow.....Yamaha not as reliable as Suzuki...get real dude..
HOnestly your buying at the wrong time of the year. Buy in the fall, sell in the spring. Prices are higher right now cause the weather is nice.
Cycle trader is good, and I like ebay but as said you have to be careful. I just pick up the local swap sheets, I can always find something close in there.
As for the comments above...
YOu cant go wrong with either the R6 or the Gixxer. Your not going to do any more work on one than the other. Both fast, but the yammy is gunna handle a little better if you like playing in the twisties...
10k on a bike isn't high, hell the clutch on my bike isn't even broken in yet at 4k. Especially if this is your first bike, get something cheap with high mileage, because you will go down on it, its just a matter of time and how much money you want to lose when you do it.
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
When looking at bikes. Judge them based on the condition not so much the milage and year do not always tell how it has been treated. Do not buy a fix er upper as you will most likely get burned. Motercycle parts are scary expensive from the dealer. Even worse for sport bikes.
Also it is hard to find an accurate blue book value on bike. Most do not take into account milage or condition. For example in 2003 I bought a clean title, mint condition, never down 98 Kawasaki ZX-9 with only 4,400 miles on it. It had a ton of small aftermarket parts I liked like ajdustable levers, tinted windscreen, full two brothers carbon series exhaust as well as all the stock parts matching helmet gloves and jacket the same size I wore. Asking price was $4,500. The bank uses KBB which said said $3900. That is all the bank would loan me so I had to come up with the rest.
I sold the bike in the same condition almost 2 years later with 9,000 miles for $4,500. Two buyers backed out becasue they could not even get the bank to loan them 3,500 and had no extra money to put towards it.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
i just bought my 04 r6 with 1300 on the clock for $2500. never been set down. look through private parties and also bikes go alot cheaper down south.
666 night rider (TGM) wrote:i just bought my 04 r6 with 1300 on the clock for $2500. never been set down. look through private parties and also bikes go alot cheaper down south.
That is a smokin deal. Congrats.
Thanks for the advice guys... I may wait till fall to pick one up now. I think prices will def come down.
666 night rider (TGM) wrote:i just bought my 04 r6 with 1300 on the clock for $2500. never been set down. look through private parties and also bikes go alot cheaper down south.
The best prices I have seen for a bike like that are probably double what you paid for yours. You did get a crazy deal.
Other questions I though of today were... What kind of mileage would you expect to get on either the r6 or gsx-r? Obviously if you ride like a d-bag you're going to have worse mileage, but if you were just cruising at highway speed... 60-70mph?
Finally, are there any other bikes you would recommend I take a look at that share similar performance before droppin' down the $$$?
Thx again.
Check out any of the major sport bikes in the 600 range made within the past 8-10 years. That even goes for the old fizzers. Unless you are an experienced track rider I can guarantee that bike won't be used to its full potential. Maintenance on Yamaha, Kawasaki and Suzuki are similar simple & cheap when compared with Aprilia and Ducati.
Most newer bikes have fuel injection, the further you go back the more you will see equipped with carbs. Fuel Injected starts much easier on cold mornings.
Things to watch out for are:
-Wire-tied or drilled fasteners. This indicates the bike was subjected to actual track days and run much harder than normal.
-Tires with next to no tread in the center - burnouts, or tires with rubber balled up around the edges - read as pushed very hard
-Crash damage. Large divits or short deep scratches indicate the bike was dropped at a parking lot speed or stopped. Longer scratches, it was dropped while moving. Dropped while standing still is not usually a big deal, the front turn signal may get pushed in cracking the fairing and the clutch/starter cover scratched. While it doesn't look so hot, these bikes are usually good for a nice discount while still for the most part mechanically sound.
-NOT a salvage title, frames on bikes are prone to tweaking or cracking in a crash and you don't want to touch these with a ten foot pole
-Integrated tail lights when the stock model did not have them. This is always subject to a DIY'ers electrical botching. Don't be surprised if you have to repair or actually solder the wires that some idiot twisted and electrical taped up...
-Gas tank check for rust, the exterior may look mint but the bike could have sat with a stagnant tank of fuel (or empty) for long periods of time in a shed/garage
-Oil leaks
-Fork leaks
-Spongy brakes may need pads replaced or the brake lines replaced if they cannot hold the pressure (IE dry rotted rubber)
-Very strong gas smell even after the bike is warmed up, indicative of a bike running too rich. Either it wasn't tuned correctly or has been re-jetted if it has carbs
-Loud ticking or rattling if the bike is not a Ducati(dry clutch rattle) or a classic Ninja 250 (sewing machine sound)
Also ask the guy:
-How often the oil & filter were changed and what type of oil. Very low friction oil in wet clutches may cause slippage.
-How many miles are on the chain. Did he change the front/rear sprockets at the same time he changed the chain
-How many miles are on the tires and how old, dry rotting and cracking need replacing. Is the rear the stock size?
-When the last time the valves were checked for clearance, or brought to a shop for servicing
If I think of more I'll add em. GL.
I can only give you the same advice that was given to me. DONT buy an SS style bike as a first bike. Start small. Look for a cheap used bike like a kawi 250 or even a 500 to start on. Take the MSF course and ride that bike for a year to get your skills. When you get comfortable with your riding skills then look for a new bike. Im not saying you are going to crash or wreck on a 600 SS, its just that the SS bike are less forgiving. What ever you do I wish you luck and safe riding but please take the MSF course and get the fundamentals. Here is a link to a great write up on what to look for when buying a used bike. Also a lot of good info on this site.
http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/general-sportbikes/315253-used-motorcycle-evaluation-guide.html
deff go with a used 250 for a starter... im looking for one right now. just not having any luck finding one
