hey all...
I have a 2000 alero, 3.4 motor.
It's got the better part of 250,000 kms, so it's long in the tooth, but this is getting to me. Once I'm @ highway speed, it'll drop down to about 2K revs, but if I go above that (between 2500/3000 revs), it starts to surge and lag... not really badly, but it's damned irritating and nauseating if I'm on a long drive.
I had it checked over @ the dealership when I bought it and they said it needed coils (which were about $150 from them) spark plugs, and wires. I've replaced the wires (they were cracked) and the plugs (cheap insurance, the ones in the car were factory originals, never changed), finally was going to suck it up and just buy the damned coil from them, but saw replacement parts for $15 a coil, delco replacements.
I figure it can't be THAT hard to replace. I'll replace all 3 at once, and if that doesn't cure the surging... well, I'll just have to live with it, or burn it.
Cars will break-down and parts will cost you, BUT
... you need to stay away from the dealership and find yourself a reliable third party mechanic. I'm certain you could resolve your problems quicker (and cheaper). I purchased my Jeep used -- with a later apparent -- electrical gremlin. $172dollars later from Chrysler, and the problem persisted... that was until I found someone more knowledgeable, and cheaper.
Incidentally, my Sunbird was no different, I was running into mysterious power steering and brake failures despite many visits to the dealership. Once again, it took a solid third party mechanic to find out it was the ECU.
.
[ o ][][][][][][][][ o ] coach built xj ( o \[][][][][][][]/ o ) hid wj
my friends alero has 300K on it... and it runs like a champ... he had to replace the water pump, coils, and plugs/wires... check that out and then if that doesnt stop the problem check your fuel pump screens for blockage
Okay...
- replaced the plugs and wires.
- Waterpump is fine (it's the 3400, not the 2.4 LD9) and LIM gasket was replaced.
- fuel filter was changed when I got it 30,000 kms ago.
This isn't helping...
I don't want to take it to a mechanic if it's just going to be a matter of replacing the modules with a wrench and such. I just want to know if it's something a novice can replace without a high possibility of screwing it up.
cats?
I
05 M6 YJ GTO 1 of 447 12.767@109.93
The coil packs should be pretty easy, I don't do much mechanical work and I could probably do them..
I think you need to make sure and have dielectric (sp?) grease though for when you install them.
1983 Camaro Z28
The coils should be fairly easy to install. I cant remember 100% where they are at but its 2 bolts per coil and they are numbered as well.
GAM (The Kilted One) wrote:I don't want to take it to a mechanic if it's just going to be a matter of replacing the modules with a wrench and such. I just want to know if it's something a novice can replace without a high possibility of screwing it up.
Okay, you're missing my point.
I'm not telling you to visit a 3rd party mechanic to repair things you can do yourself.
I'm telling you allot of dealership mechanics don't know what they're talking about.
[ o ][][][][][][][][ o ] coach built xj ( o \[][][][][][][]/ o ) hid wj
TPS sensor can get a wear spot on the resistor in the area where you cruise most often sometimes causing funny running conditions on the highway and such. If you have a decent multi meter you could do a resistance sweep and see if you see it dropping out anywhere. Or try and find one cheap to just throw on there.
13.934 @ 97.82
ALL MOTOR
urban wrote:GAM (The Kilted One) wrote:I don't want to take it to a mechanic if it's just going to be a matter of replacing the modules with a wrench and such. I just want to know if it's something a novice can replace without a high possibility of screwing it up.
Okay, you're missing my point.
I'm not telling you to visit a 3rd party mechanic to repair things you can do yourself.
I'm telling you allot of dealership mechanics don't know what they're talking about.
Gotcha... And I have a mechanic that's a ton cheaper than a dealer (because he actually works at a dealership) but if I can DIY, I'd rather keep the money. The dealership's mechanics are generally not on their first time around the block, so I trust what they say, but if I can live with the problem, that's a lot cheaper
Cavfan: Thanks
I hadn't thought about that, but that seems more likely... My car used to be a delivery vehicle for x-rays and medical files between Montreal and Toronto so it'd stand to reason that the TPS might be a little off. If it's not too expensive I'll get that fixed by my mechanic (I'm not terribly mechanically inclined, but I can do some things
) otherwise, I'll just live with it.
GAM (The Kilted One) wrote:
Gotcha... And I have a mechanic that's a ton cheaper than a dealer (because he actually works at a dealership) but if I can DIY, I'd rather keep the money. The dealership's mechanics are generally not on their first time around the block, so I trust what they say, but if I can live with the problem, that's a lot cheaper
you're fortunate. the vast majority of dealership mechanics in my area are lousy
[ o ][][][][][][][][ o ] coach built xj ( o \[][][][][][][]/ o ) hid wj
You also live in Sudbury IIRC. Unless it's GMC/Chev, Ford or Dodge trucks, I don't think most dealerships would be able to retain the better techs.
Just one question. Auto tranny? Have you checked it?
Of course it could be an engine thing, TPS even seems likely but what other issues are you having? None? Does it coincide with being in OD? It may be worth having a look at the tranny, just to be sure. Maybe a problem with the TCU, I've seen that before.
If it's not the TPS.....
PAX
PS: This is what part of the alphabet would look like if Q and R were eliminated
- Mitch Hedberg (RIP)
to check the tps properly you need something more reactive than a multimeter- while they seem to react quickly to our eyes, they take long enough that such a flat spot could easily go undetected by a multimeter, unless you go really, really slowly. an ocilloscope would be your best bet.
In regards to mechanics, many times, the dealership has the most experienced, and/or best trained techs for your vehicle. however, each tech is an individual person (obviously), so this is not always true (some people are just idiots). you just need to find someone who does a good job and doesn't charge out the @$$ for it. it sounds like you (GAM) know somebody, but for others' reference...
and for parts, unless you are upgrading a part, it's probably best to use the O.E. part, even if you don't get it from the dealer. don't just go to AutoZone and get the cheapest replacement you can find. it's usually one of the worst things you can do as far as getting parts is concerned. your GM coil packs are prob. made by ACDelco or Bosch. get a service manual (chilton or hayne's), it will show you where those parts are and how to replace them (i think it's pretty straightforeward). when you find them, the name of the company that GM buys them from will be stamped on somewhere
Is it an automatic transmission? If so, is it lagging/surging, it is the motor, like losing power?
Im going to bet that maybe its the Torque Converter, or something along those lines, My car does this, it will ride nice at about 60-65 and a little under or over that speed (with out the B&M Engaged) it slips, and revvs a bit more, or bounces up and down a few rpm +- 75 or so from 2000.
Just a thought, you might look at trans maintenance as well.
Hahahaha: I'm getting the car in for maintenance, and the Trans is going to be devac'ed, and the gasket and filter changed. I don't know if that'll solve the problem, but it's at 250,000 kms this morning, so it's due for tranny maintenance. I'm going to get the transmission looked at, but realistically, if its fluttering like what Matt Linke said (sounds like whats happening except its at 3000 rpm) I'm just going to end up driving it into the ground and get a G35 sooner than I expected, and keep the Alero for a winter or second car.
toyotaz87: If it requires that much work, I'll deal with it and go over or under that RPM range. Ironically it doesn't do that on cruise control, so I'm thinking it's TPS, either way, diagnosing it is likely as expensive as just replacing the part. I'm going to use OE quality parts, so no worries there. And we don't have Autozone here, but I know a few ppl at UAP, or like I said earlier, I can just deal with it for the time being, and have a car-beque at my place when I get the G35 if the Alero pisses me off enough.
Matt Linke: if it were the torque converter, would it not do that across all the gears at the same RPM range? This only does it at 100kmh (about 60mph) and even then, 2200 rpms solves the problem. Burning a little more gas doesn't bother me enough to spend a few hundred getting the tranny serviced and Tq/conv replaced.
