Anyone know the steps to doing this?
**there is only one true love in my life... and my girlfriend has learned to live with it**
Doesn't it run off of your motor oil?
05 M6 YJ GTO 1 of 447 12.767@109.93
nope, there is a special oil to buy for it.
**there is only one true love in my life... and my girlfriend has learned to live with it**
For the GTP? Wouldn't your friendly neighbourhood GMPD have it?
Most aftermarket systems use an oil tap (except Jackson Racing for some reason), but I seem to remember my mom's GP GTP and her G6 GTP Supercharged having their own oil supplies and coolers... I could be wrong though.
I have the oil, I need to know how to change it.
**there is only one true love in my life... and my girlfriend has learned to live with it**
there is a allen bolt on the charger that you ned to remove to drain teh oil.
Ryan1
yeah its best to suck out whats in it , unless your coupler is bad
i hear the oil stinks too
Just use a hose/syringe and suck out the old stuff... And don't smell it.
yeah oil smell is knock you on your ass bad
If it stinks like that it almost sounds like diff fluid.
05 M6 YJ GTO 1 of 447 12.767@109.93
It's a full synthetic (probably the slickest @!#$ I've ever felt), and people have tried to match it forever... Can't find it.
1) stuff smells like ass. definetly something you want to do in a well ventilated area
2) S/C runs off of it's own oil supply in the snout. no cooler or anything, just a self contained oil area that is in direct contact with the drive gears
3) unscrew the black allen head bolt on the base of the snout of the blower. then get either a syringe and rubber tube, or a pump from a hand soap bottle (well cleaned out, of course). and just pump it out. then just put the new in. should take almost two bottles.
Andy
it's not how fast you go, it's how you get there that counts.
ZZP XP cam, 1.6 rockers, 105# springs, speedbuilt FWI, 3.3" modular pulley, TOG headers,
3" exhaust, flomatched injectors
'97 GTP 14.06@100.6mph pre cam w/ 3.5" pulley, I/E
Went to change it yesterday, notice there is a seal leak near the pully, so I didn't bother changing it yet. Not much point in changing it until I get the leak fixed.
Can/should I upgrade anything while I am fixing the leak?
**there is only one true love in my life... and my girlfriend has learned to live with it**
Gutty96 wrote:Went to change it yesterday, notice there is a seal leak near the pully, so I didn't bother changing it yet. Not much point in changing it until I get the leak fixed.
Can/should I upgrade anything while I am fixing the leak?
Do a modular pulley on the snout since you have to pull it off anyways. If you pull the whole snout off to change the seal (you don't have to) check the couple.
Check www.clubgp.com for more info
I think the coupler is fine, there is no rattle, no noise at all other then the whine. However, there is 173,000kms on it, maybe I should change the coupler anyhow.
**there is only one true love in my life... and my girlfriend has learned to live with it**
Hell...
With that many miles, I'd just pick up a lower mileage used unit, either a Series III (what you have now) or go to a Series V blower.
series V blower wont bolt right on. you need adapters and mods. they're pretty pricey as well.
replace the coupler. better safe than sorry. with that many miles the old one probably doesnt have much life left
dont bother looking into a new blower unless you're getting sound from the needle or nose bearings.
pulley swaps. 1) pulling the snout doesnt help any. it actually makes it harder other than having more space in front of it. 2) only replace it with a modular system if you're planning on changing pulleys. if you're content with a single pulley drop (which most arent) then dont get it. it's an expensive mod for someone who just wants a 3.4 or 3.5" pulley.
the snout seal can be done in the car. drain the fluid, pull the alternator (and both belts... duh
) alternator has i think 4 or 5 bolts holding it in, two are kinda hidden behind it. after you get the alternator pulled, place some towels under the blower snout. there's still a little oil in there, and it smells, so you dont want it burnin off your engine. pop all the bolts loose and back em out. the snout probably wont just pop right off. i've had to take a dead blow to the two i've taken apart. lightly tap it, it should break lose. pull it out, make sure everything looks ok, replace the coupler, put some liquid gasket aroundt he outside, replace, bolt back up, let dry, put oil in, alternator back on, belts and such, and tada! three birds with one stone!
Andy
it's not how fast you go, it's how you get there that counts.
ZZP XP cam, 1.6 rockers, 105# springs, speedbuilt FWI, 3.3" modular pulley, TOG headers,
3" exhaust, flomatched injectors
'97 GTP 14.06@100.6mph pre cam w/ 3.5" pulley, I/E
WORK wrote:1) stuff smells like ass. definetly something you want to do in a well ventilated area
One car will easily stink up 8000 sq ft of sapce. Even if the ventilation is good.
I kept some in a bottle and get people to sniff it. As they do, I squeeze the bottle Heheh.
Craig Lewis wrote:WORK wrote:1) stuff smells like ass. definetly something you want to do in a well ventilated area
One car will easily stink up 8000 sq ft of sapce. Even if the ventilation is good.
I kept some in a bottle and get people to sniff it. As they do, I squeeze the bottle Heheh.
lol... thats just mean. I can still remember almost getting sick when I changed mine for the first time.
Quoth the Raven 'Nevermore
raven@accesswave.ca
Raven Autosports
55 McQuade Lake Cres,
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
(902) 850-3330
10.82@132
raven wrote:Craig Lewis wrote:WORK wrote:1) stuff smells like ass. definetly something you want to do in a well ventilated area
One car will easily stink up 8000 sq ft of sapce. Even if the ventilation is good.
I kept some in a bottle and get people to sniff it. As they do, I squeeze the bottle Heheh.
lol... thats just mean. I can still remember almost getting sick when I changed mine for the first time.
i did it inside my garage. whoops! thank god for large doors
Andy
it's not how fast you go, it's how you get there that counts.
ZZP XP cam, 1.6 rockers, 105# springs, speedbuilt FWI, 3.3" modular pulley, TOG headers,
3" exhaust, flomatched injectors
'97 GTP 14.06@100.6mph pre cam w/ 3.5" pulley, I/E
Had it checked out, there was no leak. So I changed it. I was only able to get enough out that I put 1.25 bottles back in. Oh well, that is still better then nothing.
**there is only one true love in my life... and my girlfriend has learned to live with it**
WORK wrote:raven wrote:Craig Lewis wrote:WORK wrote:1) stuff smells like ass. definetly something you want to do in a well ventilated area
One car will easily stink up 8000 sq ft of sapce. Even if the ventilation is good.
I kept some in a bottle and get people to sniff it. As they do, I squeeze the bottle Heheh.
lol... thats just mean. I can still remember almost getting sick when I changed mine for the first time.
i did it inside my garage. whoops! thank god for large doors
So true when I changed my superchareger oil in my cobra its smelled so bad I had to walk away for a bit.
Here is where I got my supercharger oil
http://www.pulleyboys.com/
"Remember do what you like because you have to drive it."--Me
^^^ they make good modular pulley systems, as well. as does ZZP
Andy
it's not how fast you go, it's how you get there that counts.
ZZP XP cam, 1.6 rockers, 105# springs, speedbuilt FWI, 3.3" modular pulley, TOG headers,
3" exhaust, flomatched injectors
'97 GTP 14.06@100.6mph pre cam w/ 3.5" pulley, I/E
