Took the reaper last weekend to John Higgens house to get a good starter tune so that I could hit the track the following weekend. The tuning secession went very well besides the fact that it was raining the entire day. That was a pretty big bummer. So with a good tune on the car at 5PSI I was more than happy with the power it had. Woke up early Saturday morning and loaded up the car. Got to the track to notice only about 10-15 people showing up. That was ok though, it was nice to have a easy run day. it came my turn to go and man this car is fast, so much power that going around the tight turns the car just lost traction in both tires and began to smoke. On my last lap I noticed that the clutch started to feel a little funny. I started my cool down lap and then it started to feel really weird and making a horrible noise. Surly enough the car either shredded the threads on the crank or the bolts came loose on the flywheel. So we loaded the car up after 5 laps and went home. Thats ok though it was super fun for the time being. Got it back to the shop and on the lift. The flywheel is definitely loose. I am going to put it on the ARP bolts. I think I forgot to attach the metal shim so I think the bolts ate away the aluminum on the flywheels and came loose. Whats funny is I RED loctited them on.
No big deal just a day or two to get the motor out and trans off, then fix and back in. The next race is May 25 so well get it back together before then.
Anyone up for a Gainsville trip? They have an Awesome road course to really open your car up there.
Anyways things to come in the next month. Custom made headlights ( if John Benham would ever send my lights back to me), Mounting hooks on the frame for easy tie downs on the trailer, Flywheel bolts fixed, windshield wipers removed and a winch.
Mark
Videos and pics to come
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
Were you using the shorter ARP on this flywheel, or the longer ones?
Good luck with the headlights.....
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
good attitude facing adversity!
I am using ARP bolts, but I think its because I torqued them to factory spec, I need to really torque them down ( reminds me I have to call APR about that).
I dont mind when my track car brakes. If it was my DD I would be pissed beyond. But when you race you have to assume that something is going to break. Its just the fact of the matter.
Mark
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
did you use the pinto FLYWHEEL bolts or the FLEXPLATE bolts?
there is a difference...
M45/OS crank/2.4 snout. It's nice to be injected but I love being blown!
DFF- Breaking The Boundary wrote:I am using ARP bolts, but I think its because I torqued them to factory spec, I need to really torque them down ( reminds me I have to call APR about that).
I dont mind when my track car brakes. If it was my DD I would be pissed beyond. But when you race you have to assume that something is going to break. Its just the fact of the matter.
Mark
I had the same issue with my ARP bolts ( the ford Mod motor ones ) with blue loc tite. I tightened them to OE spec, and they were loose when I removed the tranny. I will tighten them to ARP specs whenever the car gets put back together
Jason
99 Z24
LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren
With all of this OEM tightening, I hope you all did your head and main studs to ARP specs!!!!!
Yes sure did. ANy bolts for the motor that were ARP were spec to ARP's torque. Just an oversight. Ill get it fixed up.
Steering was pretty good. I have to run the camber in by about 2-3 degrees more in the front and rear, did not have nearly enough contact surface on the turns. Might be coming out with a RACE set-up for those looking for max camber.
Mark
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
What track and were you timing laps?
How's the car feel with all the extra bracing?
Great attitude about the car. Good to see this thing alive and kicking again.
When the Pearl is up and running again, I will take you up on this Gainesville road course since that's what the main built point is for my car.
R.I.P. JessE Gerard 7.11.87 - 1.25.08
The Radiation Nation Facebook Twitter Twisted Metal Alliance
strat81 wrote:What track and were you timing laps?
How's the car feel with all the extra bracing?
We need to take a trip and ship our cars to FL to have some fun.....
Tinkles(KGM) wrote:strat81 wrote:What track and were you timing laps?
How's the car feel with all the extra bracing?
We need to take a trip and ship our cars to FL to have some fun.....
if you guys need a place to crash let me know
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
The car was solid, didn't move at all. I have to adjust the suspension to allow for more compensation around the turns. Its set-up right now for long swooping turns not tight turns. So going into the turns it was very tight, but so much power I had no traction.
You definitely feel the car much better with the manual steering and the cage, it feels like a car should around the track, tight and fast. Once I get problems fixed Ill get back to the track. I would love to get a few guys together, maybe a road Atlanta trip or Sebring? or Maybe Watkins glen?
Here is the list of things to fix.
1. Pull motor and trans and re torque flywheel bolts ( hopefully nothing else is wrong)
2. Add hook spots to frame for easy trail hooking
3. Add more camber to front and rear
All within a Month
Mark
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
Is it an actual manual rack, or just looped lines?
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Watkins Glenn would probably be the best bet for me.
Pretty sure he has a true manual rack. He had mentioned a rack in the suspension forum awhile back that used linear bushings internally.
-MD- Enforcer wrote:Is it an actual manual rack, or just looped lines?
True manual. Internals gutted and added linear roller bearings. I warned people about the looping of the lines, it does not work. You have to do some extensive work to the rack and internals to make it totally manual.
Mark
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
SO what your saying is you want to make me one?
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
