Hey -- Im going to install a Yank Stall Converter in my car over the summer.
I want to change the fluid in the trans for my own sanity.
Ive gotten mixed reviews on doing it, some say it will hurt more than help, others say it wont make a difference, a few say that It would make a noticible difference on the stock parts.
I have gotten a unanimous vote for NOT flushing the fluid, just draining and changing.
I have never done it on a J-Body before. I did it on 2 other cars a while ago with my dad, where we had to drop the pan and let it drain.
Is this what needs to be done on a J? (I have the haynes manual, Im just unsure of its current location)
Id like to get some real life experience answers if possible, other than just HOW to do it. Is it going to make a huge mess? Where does most of the fluid drain from (specific spot, front, back, left, right side).
I will take it to a professional as a last resort, I dont want to have someone else work on my car if I dont have to, know?
thanks!
why have u heard to NOT flush the fluid? it gets out a TON more of the old fluid than simply dropping the pan.
if i were you i would go buy a new filter and pan gasket from gm and take it to a professional shop and have them flush the fluid and install the new filter and pan gasket. this really is the best way to do it. expensive, but the best.
Im not sure why people say not to flush it. Ive just heard this, Im sorta numb in the mind about transmissions.
I think it has something to do with there being parts of the actual transmission in the fluid that have been worn away, but in the fluid they keep clearences to a minimum.
I only have 78K miles on my car. I KNOW the TC is shot to hell, im sure the rest of the transmission is not in bad shape.
Ill have to look into having it professionally done maybe. Just looking to save a few dollars as usual, might be looking in the wrong place for that.
Makes me miss my saturn, it had a spin off transmission filter and a drain bolt so there was no need to drop the pan it was like doing an oil change. I agree with zyaaaa, dropping the pan only gets a percentage of the old fluid out of the transmission, hydraulic valvebody and torque convertor, not to mention any debris from the clutch plates and other wear will be flush out as well. I heard if the transmission is in bad shape it is not good to flush it since it can make already occuring problems worse. But for a healthy transmission go for it.
When people say not to flush it, they probably mean not to use additives like "trans flush" or any of that silly stuff that comes in a bottle. Only use the recommended trans fluid. But I've used a flush machine back when I worked at a Dodge dealer and it really is a much better way to change the fluid. Problem is, it makes changing the filter a pain in the ass, because if you do the flush before the filter, you have to drain brand new fluid to drop the pan and get to the filter.... And if you change the filter first you have to fill the trans back up to do the flush.... Unfortunately, most people lack the equipment to do a full flush so you have to take it to a shop to get that done. Just make sure you give specific instructions NOT to add any additives whatsoever, and if you have to, stand outside of the guys bay and watch that he doesn't put anything but trans fluid into the flush machine. Better yet, provide your own fluid too even if it costs you more. Trust me, the quik-lube businesses aren't known for hiring the best and brightest. For this reason alone, if I ever owned another auto I would simply drop the pan every 15K because I don't trust other people to do work on my cars.
But, regardless, ALWAYS at least drop the pan and change the filter at every 30K bare minimum. If you're doing a lot of brake-torquing or hard driving, cut that time in half. Thermal breakdown of the fluid is the #1 cause of failed transmissions.
As to actually doing it, the last GM trans I did a fluid change on as a TH125 3-speed... But I'm fairly certain, knowing GM, that the procedure isn't much different. If it is, then someone please correct me! Of course, you can always pick up a haynes manual for $20 and use that as a guideline as well.
Assuming you don't have a lift, jack up the front of the car and put it on stands. Then undo all the trans pan bolts except for any 2 on the front side... Pry down on the back edge with a screwdriver or crowbar (you're just trying to break the seal of the gasket so give it some heft but don't go too crazy), and stay clear to the front or side of the car... a lot of fluid comes out fast so be careful and my advice is to wear safety glasses just in case. Its a lot easier to avoid on a lift, under the car, you'll probably get messy. Once you've got the seal broken, loosen the two front bolts and use your hands to pry the pan down a little more, and a lot more fluid is gonna come out. After that, hold the pan up with your hand in the center and use your other hand to remove the two bolts, then slowly and carefully work the front of the pan loose and lower it to the ground.
Dump the pan, if there's a magnet in the bottom take it out and wipe it completely clean of all metal (there will be a dark gray sludge of fine metal particles almost every time). If you have big pieces or flakes, well, call the towtruck and take it to the nearest good trans shop cuz you've got problems. Then use brake cleaner or a similar solvent to completely wash out the pan and spray off the valve body. Find the trans filter, unbolt its (i think there's one or two torx screws but it was a LOOOOOONG time ago) and slowly wiggle it out. More fluid is going to pour out once you get it out so be careful. Replace the little seal that comes with the filter by prying out the old one and then using a socket and hammer to gently tap the new one into place. Then install the filter. put the gasket on the pan and put a few bolts through to keep the gasket lined up. Then bolt the pan back up, torque to specs, and pour in a gallon of trans fluid. Set the car back down and start it up. Check for leaks first, then cycle it slowly through all the gears before checking the fluid. Add a little at a time, recycle the gears, and check again. Then take it for a ride and make sure everything works right.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
Well heres the problem with flushing youre transmission fluid, Causes a problem, Over the years and mileage, Due the the bands inside the transmission little particles of metal form on the clutch bands, in the auto trannys, In which allow more grab to worn bands, If those Metal particles aren't there what happens, Youre transmission starts to slip, Of course then, either the tranny fails or just breaks. In my opinon I dont see the point of spending extra cash on flushing youre tranny, If youre gonna have to replace the tranny down the road, Ive had more issues with auto tranny have flush done, Then just changing the tranny fluid gasket / filter, Its everyones own preference, What they want to do.
Good Luck.
bringing it back from the dead but..........................
on my car there isnt a trans dipstick, so how to i check my fluid as i add it?
02 Cavalier sedan ECOTEC special plans ahead
04 Malibu classic ECOTEC now the daily driver
ECOTEC Cavalier 13's coming summer 2008
if youre changing the TC then dont worry about flushing it. The main reason you cant get all the fluid out of the tranny just by dropping the pan and filter, is that alot of fluid sits in the TC. go get yourself a real shop manual ( not chiltons) and it will tell you exactly how to change it and the CORRECT way to fill the transmission with the proper amount. or use the search button...the question of how much fluid goes in my 4T40 comes up every week.......but dont listen to anyone who tells you an actual nuber of quarts to put in..........it varies in every case.
