Well my turbo guy just got back to me. Here is the parts im starting on and working from.
So far im going with the new Garrett GT25 Series. Dont know which one yet. but then ill get a johhny racecar intercooler, and a tial 50mm BOV. Then for injectors im gonna go with ford red tops. but some questions i had on the red tops were, will they have to be modified to fit my car or will they just fit into my old injector spots? and i am going to head toward the Apexi boost controller/turbo timer. so he is going to check the local swap meets and various other places for the parts. he also told me that when you buy a turbo kit most of the money you spend is for the turbo piping because of all the labor and all of the welding and what not. so we are pieceing mine together and he can custom bend all of my pipes for a hell of a lot cheaper than most places. so let me know what you think. im going with that turbo since its a ball bearing and the internals are much better than the latest series, and the exterrior is ceramic coated. now i gotta keep saving and shopping.
as far as i know the red tops will work just fine. what are you using for tuning? my advice, is megasquirt
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Some suggestions...
Instead of spending alot of money on a Tial BOV, check out the DSM Forum classifieds or ebay a 1st Gen DSM BOV, they are cheap, sound great and work great.
For the turbo timer, I'm sure the Apexi one is fine but you also have the option of the Greddy Turbo timers...they are very popular to have. I hear the Greddy Electronic Boost Controller is good as well. When you start checking on prices for that Boost Controller you'll see that it's a pretty penny. If you feel that you don't want to spend that much, you can always get yourself a manual boost controller.
www.cnfxperformance.com sells some good brand controllers.
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he also told me that when you buy a turbo kit most of the money you spend is for the turbo piping because of all the labor and all of the welding and what not.
Eh...not true. I'm piecing myself a turbo kit as well and piping will cost me under $250, so no that's not true. It's just that there are so many parts that you need to run a proper setup and still have quality parts. Anyone could piece together a rinky dink turbo kit but see how long it will last or what will happen to their motor.
Also a big tip, before you buy yourself a manifold, figure out what turbo you want and if that turbo is internally wastegated or not. I made that mistake early on. I bought a manifold and I ended up buying a T3/T4 turbo that isn't internally wastegated, so I am in the process of selling my manifold for a manifold that has a port for an external wastegate. This process could have saved me $140. So learn from my mistake.
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im going with that turbo since its a ball bearing
Ball Bearing is nice but you still want to make sure that is something you truely want and need. Ball bearings spin incredibley easy and you'll be in boost more often than say a regular turbo. If you care about gas mileage, that could be effected. Also, traction might play a factor as well. Just make sure you turbo match well that's all. Spending alot of money on a ball bearing turbo might not be something that you want to have in the long run so just look at the positives and negatives.
Need help turbo matching...check this out:
Turbine map? need some help
Also, do you have a 3-speed or 4-speed?
If you have anymore questions just ask...
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Don't go GT 25, GT 30R is the way.
between the GT25R and GT30R is of course the very popular GT28R, which I would find to be more fitting for your motor.
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Thanks for the big tips, but as far as the boost controller the apexi one he said was good because its very easy to be able to tune and user friendly. do i need a program aside from the apexi tuner? what i mean is would i need megasquirt? i have the CD for it anyway. is there somethign else i would need besides the cd? And as far as the model of turbo, im going with the gt 25 since i dont plan on going over 300 horse anyway so the 25 series is plenty. as far as transmission i have the 4 speed and im gonna have the b&m shift plus after christmas. but he said what we would do is set first gear at a lower psi and then second gear would be around 6 or 8 and stay there through the rest of the gears. as far as the ball bearing issue goes he said it would spool faster and then it would also prolong the life of the turbo just because its built better.
NJHK the whole kit for 250? or the piping kit? Because he said all my pipes will be custom and pretty cheap. He is very good at what he does. and also as i said he has a 7 second street bike and their main focus is bike but he is also talented in turbo systems.
Ive been talking with him and he said that tubo should match real well. The turbo's he told me to look for are the GT2554R-471171-3, GT2560R-466541-1, GT2560R-46654-4. Ill have to talk to him about the manifold. And ill look into the bov.
That is all for now. give me suggestions and comments please. thanks for the help so far.
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do i need a program aside from the apexi tuner? what i mean is would i need megasquirt? i have the CD for it anyway. is there somethign else i would need besides the cd?
The Apexi Turbo Timer itself is all you need to actually work (of course with the wiring harness). Megasquirt is a standalone fuel system unit, it would have nothing to do with your turbo timer. Your turbo timer would hook up to your ignition system to keep your car running without the key being in the ignition. You need to run megasquirt with a laptop, so you need the CD software to use Megasquirt, that's what it's for.
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as far as transmission i have the 4 speed and im gonna have the b&m shift plus after christmas.
I'd personally go with the Auto Trans Interceptor...read this
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=335767&t=335767.
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but he said what we would do is set first gear at a lower psi and then second gear would be around 6 or 8 and stay there through the rest of the gears.
I'm not sure what he's talking about or how you would even do something like that or even why you would want to try and control the PSI per gear. Your turbo works off of exhaust flow...just doesn't make much sence to me.
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as far as the ball bearing issue goes he said it would spool faster and then it would also prolong the life of the turbo just because its built better.
Maybe I can understand for it being built well but if you invest your money in a real Garrett Turbo brand new, it will be very well built as well. Remember, you have an Automatic...you don't release your foot off the gas when going through gears to shift, which means you will stay at full boost throughout the gears unlike manuals that might need a faster spooling turbo to catchup in between gears. As long as you get a decent sized turbo (example: A T3 Super 60), you should be fine.
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NJHK the whole kit for 250? or the piping kit?
I'm going off of what I'm doing. I'm buying a bunch of J bends and it should be under that price.
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Because he said all my pipes will be custom and pretty cheap.
What he is doing is taking a big single pipe and measuring and bending the piping himself (more than likely mendrel bending them).
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thanks for the help so far.
No problem.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
I have the megasquirt CD, I have a laptop, so i would be set for that part. im sure there is an adaptor that plugs it into my car. And for the Apexi turbo timer, i think what he is saying that since it has an electronic boost controller then the psi can be controlled electronically through gears, i understand boost is held throughout gears but id have to ask him about some of this stuff. The reason he would want to control it per gear is so that i could run higher psi in higher gears. Like instead of ramming 6 or 8 psi off the line, it would only be 3 or 4 to get the car in some boost then jump up to the higher psi.
I would go for the auto trans but i like that it can be adjusted in the car. the autotrans cant but i like other people wouldnt drive around with it on a higher setting. Id leave it on 1.
He also told me something about there isnt any thrust rings in the new GT's. Isnt that a better deal also? Thats another reason id go with the GT series. And yes we are going to mandrel bend one big pipe instead of welding a bunch of pieces together. Although i can weld pretty good it might be better to just make one piece. I know it would suck to have to take it out and install it again as one big piece but oh well it would look cleaner i think.
Ill get ahold of my guy after christmas and see what he thinks about all this stuff.
make sure that if he's selling you mandrel bends that they are actually mandrel bent.
I know for a fact that mandrel benders are not cheap, and I have a hard time thinking he'd give you a better deal then anyone else. You have to pay for that big expensive bender somehow and its not by giving our 'charities'
I was under the impression that the autotrans interceptor could be adjusted from inside the car.
the megasquirt is like another engine computer that you need to buy. You will not be able to do anything with just a laptop and the program.
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And for the Apexi turbo timer, i think what he is saying that since it has an electronic boost controller then the psi can be controlled electronically through gears, i understand boost is held throughout gears but id have to ask him about some of this stuff. The reason he would want to control it per gear is so that i could run higher psi in higher gears. Like instead of ramming 6 or 8 psi off the line, it would only be 3 or 4 to get the car in some boost then jump up to the higher psi.
Ok, I think there is some misunderstandment on your part or your mechanics part. A turbo timer is a device that allows you keep your car running with the key out of the ignition to cool down the turbo and engine oil to help prevent internal turbo damage.
Now, what you're refering to is a Boost Controller. The boost controller (if you're talking about one from Apexi) is the AVC-R. This was something new to me what you're explaining to me about having X amount of PSI in certain gears, so I looked it up...this is what Apexi describes about their product:
www.apexi.com wrote:The AVC-R also uses a highly durable, fast action solenoid valve to physically control the boost . The valve movement (Boost Duty Cycle) can also be modified. Raising the duty cycle increases boost response, while lowering the duty cycle will slow boost response. This feature allows boost response adjustment for varying turbo sizes. Since larger turbos take longer to spool up ( bad low end response) the duty cycle should be raised under lower RPM's for better response. The opposite should be done for smaller turbo's ( excellent low - mid range response, but limited top end power.) A'PEXi engineers address this issue by including extra menus for RPM based boost control. Drag racers may want to utilize the Gear based boost control function. Aside from the basic functions above, the AVC-R has a Start Duty Setting (allows the boost to momentarily overshoot according to gear).
The highlighted parts are the most important parts. The part where it talks about the turbo sizes and how fast and slow they spool...well...that's something you shouldn't worry about as long as you match your turbo with your motor properly. Now, like I said before, this isn't something you should worry TOO much about being that if you have your foot planted to the floor, you will stay in full boost throughout all your gears because you aren't releasing the gas to shift like manuals do.
Honestly, I don't think it's something you really need to purchase if what you're trying to do is "toy" with your PSI in certain gears. Full boost is what you want. If you determine that you want your full boost to be 8 psi for example and you can spool 8 psi in 1st gear and throughout 2nd to 4th, why mess with the PSI in each gear? See my point? I just honestly think it's a waste of money to buy that JUST so you can mess with that option. Now, if you want an electronic boost controller to raise your PSI in general, that's all fine and dandy.
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I would go for the auto trans but i like that it can be adjusted in the car. the autotrans cant but i like other people wouldnt drive around with it on a higher setting. Id leave it on 1.
Honestly, the feature of having it inside your car isn't that special. I have the interceptor, I set it to a certain amount, I'm happy with it and there is no need for me to touch it again. It's not something that you would need to toy with everyday or tweaking it will give you 10 HP or something, it's there to give you a stronger shift by increasing the line pressure. It's much more adjustable than the B & M Shift Plus. The Shift Plus has certain settings you can go to only. Also, the interceptor takes minutes to install...the shift plus you have to splice wires and all that crap. Yeah, it's more expensive but you get what you pay for.
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He also told me something about there isnt any thrust rings in the new GT's. Isnt that a better deal also? Thats another reason id go with the GT series. And yes we are going to mandrel bend one big pipe instead of welding a bunch of pieces together. Although i can weld pretty good it might be better to just make one piece. I know it would suck to have to take it out and install it again as one big piece but oh well it would look cleaner i think.
I think all this worry over how fast it will spool and which turbo is so much better isn't necessary. You're running a low amount of PSI. You don't need a ball bearing turbo to run 6 PSI. I say buy a quality Garrett Turbo, non ball-bearing...T3 Super 60 will do you great and save your money and spend it on something else.
It all comes down to matching the turbo with your motor pretty much. T3 Super 60 is suggested and most popular to use on our motors. I personally am going with something bigger because I can spool a bigger turbo cause of my current modifications (using a T3/T4) but that's what I'm choosing to do and that's from me matching the turbo to my motor.
Anymore questions or need anymore suggestions?
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
stevesfire wrote:I was under the impression that the autotrans interceptor could be adjusted from inside the car.
Nope, it's done under the hood but it's nothing difficult to adjust and it's not something you need or would want to change everyday. You find a setting you like, keep it that way. If you don't like it, open your hood and change it. That's about it...
stevesfire wrote:the megasquirt is like another engine computer that you need to buy. You will not be able to do anything with just a laptop and the program.
Basically what he said...this is what it looks like:
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
OK i guess that makes more sense. and that is the apexi controller i was talking about. sorry for the confusion. The only reason i would want to step up is because im at about 92K miles and want to keep as much life in my car as i can. Granted i know its high miles and its not good to boost that high of a mileage car but i still am going to take the chance. Where do you reccomend getting most of the turbo parts from? I have been looking on ebay and found a lot of turbo parts i could use but not sure if its the best prices and best quality. I got the b&m shift plus for christmas so im not gonna complain. and what does the rest of that run ya for a price on the mega squirt.
And yes it is a mandrel bender and hte reason im getting it cheaper is because my brother works for him and plus he is tryign to get his name out even more than it already is. I find out its not what you know all of the time. its who you know and what they can do.
you should really sell the B&M Shift Plus and get the AutoTrans. Trust me. The AutoTrans install doesn't involve splicing, is not a permanent installation, is adjustable, and doesn't cause other issues with yoru car.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
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Where do you reccomend getting most of the turbo parts from?
Ebay is an alright start. You want to make sure you are shopping for quality parts and name brand parts, not just the part type. Also, look on classifieds in different forums... www.dsmtuners.com & www.srtforums.com is a start. The DSM guys ALWAYS have parts for sale.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
