Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ - Boost Forum

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Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 8:57 AM
(I've started a new thread since the 'Adam Hahn goes 11.64" is going long. Anyone interested in the beginning of this new topic can take a quick look at the end of that thread to get up to speed.)

OK, the results with 20G are IN!

403 WHP, 410 WTRQ.

Using a standard formula of 15% loss through the driveline, this computes to about 476 HP at the crank, and 485 ft lbs torque. This came @ 28-30 PSI boost. To recap, this is with our standard Stage II turbosystem, but with optional PortFueler/intake manifold and optional Super 20G turbo.

It's just soo happy too...sounds perfect, plugs look great, great AF ratios, not a hint of detonation, stock computer just crying about 'misfires', LOL! (it isn't misfiring...its just working hard to fire, and thats just fine).

Allow me to be impressed yet again with a mildly modified Ecotec. Stock head, cams and valves, stock ignition, stock block and crank, stock computer and primary injectors, stock fuel pump combined with our inline pump...all at about 3.5 times stock power.

Now this thing's getting a real attitude. It was hard to strap it down hard enough to hold on street tires, it just clawed the drum as it came up on boost...if we get any more power, I'll have to dyno on slicks.

This weekend in Norwalk's gonna be a blast.! Hopefully we can get it reasonably figured out in just a few passes. If all goes well, we should have some fun new numbers to share!



Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft

World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com


Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 8:59 AM
How much for that Inline fuel pump bill... I need one... I have a 250 Bhp 2200 on a stock pump....... I need an inline... Let me know




JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 9:03 AM
Errr... Stop teasing us and tell us a price the a kit with the port fueler!!!!






Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 9:13 AM
Congrats Mr. Hahn, dang nice numbers!

off topic: I shot you a email about some information a few days back. I hope to hear from you soon.


Josh
SLK 32



Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 9:15 AM
CavalieRX wrote:Errr... Stop teasing us and tell us a price the a kit with the port fueler!!!!

Haha, sorry to entice you so!

As the race season winds down, and testing of the combo is then complete, we will go to market with complete turbosystems that include PortFueler/intake manifold. We've actually already sold one that will be delivered early in 2006 (customer is deferring the final delivery until then). If you'd like to know more, email me. Thanks.



Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft

World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com

Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 9:19 AM
Lee wrote:How much for that Inline fuel pump bill... I need one... I have a 250 Bhp 2200 on a stock pump....... I need an inline... Let me know

Email me and we can discuss specifics...you may want just the pump, but we can also offer some other support items (bracket, relay system, custom J-body fuel fittings, instructions) to make the installation both easy, and, more importantly, an exact copy of our proven kit approach.



Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft

World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com

Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 9:26 AM
Contrats on the numbers!




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 9:28 AM
One more time Bill, good numbers.
Now, to ask you a couple of questions, and people can think I am flaming or whatever, but I know I am not and so will you.

You said that you put down close to 350 with the 16G on 23-25psi, roughly or do I have my numbers messed up right off the bat?
Now you switch over to a 20G which considerably flows more and you have to crank it up to 28-30 psi to squeeze 50 more hp?
If the amount of flow that 20G does on 18-19 psi is the same as 16G is on 23-25 psi, you should be able to get that 50 hp from just keeping the boost the same and getting those extra 50 from cfm increase.
Now I know that even if you would TRY to push the 16G to 2Bar, it would peak out and drop off right arouns 1.6 or so, since those are the more common measurements when it comes to my DSM boys.

Another thing is about efficiency.
Last time I got the compressor maps for a 14B small/big 16G, 20G, and 25G, on a 4G63 DOHC motor they all lose efficiency at right around 1.6 Bar MAX!
2 Bar would be an inch off the top of the compressor map if you know what I mean.lol
Cfm/air flow, is uncomperable in those Turbos, but they all lose efficiency at pretty much the same point, including my T3/T04E, only Turbos that can carry past 25 psi would be Ball bearing or really big ones such as .82, .96, A/R and some gigant compressors.

So how is your Turbo efficient at 28-30psi? and why did you have to crank it up so much only not to get so much.

I am not dogging the set up by no means, and you guys have surpassed me and my set up by far, so I have no room to dis here.
For everyone that might think I am doing that, I AM NOT, just asking a couple of simple questions.
Thanks, for my future info.



Best time:"""11.946""" @ 114.73 mph @17psi 1.83--60"
11 second daily driver!!!!
Race Related 727-561-9440
Shop of choice for your 11 second J body!

Also, built bottom end and or top end LSJ and L61's available.
13's ----12's ----11's ----10's

Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 9:30 AM
SunCavi_L61T3/T04E wrote:One more time Bill, good numbers.
Now, to ask you a couple of questions, and people can think I am flaming or whatever, but I know I am not and so will you.

You said that you put down close to 350 with the 16G on 23-25psi, roughly or do I have my numbers messed up right off the bat?
Now you switch over to a 20G which considerably flows more and you have to crank it up to 28-30 psi to squeeze 50 more hp?
If the amount of flow that 20G does on 18-19 psi is the same as 16G is on 23-25 psi, you should be able to get that 50 hp from just keeping the boost the same and getting those extra 50 from cfm increase.
Now I know that even if you would TRY to push the 16G to 2Bar, it would peak out and drop off right arouns 1.6 or so, since those are the more common measurements when it comes to my DSM boys.

Another thing is about efficiency.
Last time I got the compressor maps for a 14B small/big 16G, 20G, and 25G, on a 4G63 DOHC motor they all lose efficiency at right around 1.6 Bar MAX!
2 Bar would be an inch off the top of the compressor map if you know what I mean.lol
Cfm/air flow, is uncomperable in those Turbos, but they all lose efficiency at pretty much the same point, including my T3/T04E, only Turbos that can carry past 25 psi would be Ball bearing or really big ones such as .82, .96, A/R and some gigant compressors.

So how is your Turbo efficient at 28-30psi? and why did you have to crank it up so much only not to get so much.

I am not dogging the set up by no means, and you guys have surpassed me and my set up by far, so I have no room to dis here.
For everyone that might think I am doing that, I AM NOT, just asking a couple of simple questions.
Thanks, for my future info.


Ahhhhhh Judas speaks... j/k man just givin ya @!#$. It is an interesting question though




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 9:32 AM
Ohhhhhh, Judas, that is cold. lol
I am second in line I HAVE to know. lol



Best time:"""11.946""" @ 114.73 mph @17psi 1.83--60"
11 second daily driver!!!!
Race Related 727-561-9440
Shop of choice for your 11 second J body!

Also, built bottom end and or top end LSJ and L61's available.
13's ----12's ----11's ----10's

Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 9:39 AM
Nice numbers!!!!!!!!!!!



FU Tuning




Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 9:46 AM
SunCavi_L61T3/T04E wrote:One more time Bill, good numbers.
Now, to ask you a couple of questions, and people can think I am flaming or whatever, but I know I am not and so will you.

You said that you put down close to 350 with the 16G on 23-25psi, roughly or do I have my numbers messed up right off the bat?
Now you switch over to a 20G which considerably flows more and you have to crank it up to 28-30 psi to squeeze 50 more hp?
If the amount of flow that 20G does on 18-19 psi is the same as 16G is on 23-25 psi, you should be able to get that 50 hp from just keeping the boost the same and getting those extra 50 from cfm increase.



He would only gain power from the 20G upgrade at the same boost pressure if the 16G he was using was out of efficiency at that boost pressure. Just because its more efficient at higher cfm does not mean it is any more efficiency at lower cfm levels.

Bill, very nice numbers.


- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.

Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 10:01 AM
WOW


E-ticket ride for sure now

good luck at the track , and get some videos for us , please










Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 10:06 AM
SunCavi_L61T3/T04E wrote:One more time Bill, good numbers.
Now, to ask you a couple of questions, and people can think I am flaming or whatever, but I know I am not and so will you.

You said that you put down close to 350 with the 16G on 23-25psi, roughly or do I have my numbers messed up right off the bat?
Now you switch over to a 20G which considerably flows more and you have to crank it up to 28-30 psi to squeeze 50 more hp?
If the amount of flow that 20G does on 18-19 psi is the same as 16G is on 23-25 psi, you should be able to get that 50 hp from just keeping the boost the same and getting those extra 50 from cfm increase.
Now I know that even if you would TRY to push the 16G to 2Bar, it would peak out and drop off right arouns 1.6 or so, since those are the more common measurements when it comes to my DSM boys.

Another thing is about efficiency.
Last time I got the compressor maps for a 14B small/big 16G, 20G, and 25G, on a 4G63 DOHC motor they all lose efficiency at right around 1.6 Bar MAX!
2 Bar would be an inch off the top of the compressor map if you know what I mean.lol
Cfm/air flow, is uncomperable in those Turbos, but they all lose efficiency at pretty much the same point, including my T3/T04E, only Turbos that can carry past 25 psi would be Ball bearing or really big ones such as .82, .96, A/R and some gigant compressors.

So how is your Turbo efficient at 28-30psi? and why did you have to crank it up so much only not to get so much.

I am not dogging the set up by no means, and you guys have surpassed me and my set up by far, so I have no room to dis here.
For everyone that might think I am doing that, I AM NOT, just asking a couple of simple questions.
Thanks, for my future info.

Not at all, my man. These are good questions, and there's some effective explanations.

First off, the 16G's effective airflow limit is about 400HP (crank) maximum. Depending upon engine size and lesser variables, this may occur at a variety of boost levels. On small engines (motorcycle), we see it at 30+ PSI. On a 2.2L Ecotec, it came in at 23-25 PSI (it tapers off to 23 or less at hi RPM). On a 2.4L SRT-4, it tapers to about 21 PSI at hi RPM. Suffice to say that had I been able to run 28-30 PSI with 16G on the Ecotec, I would have, but we hit the effective airflow limit at lower boost.

The 20G is approximately 20% larger. Thus, we can get about 20% more HP out of it before it's 'out of steam'. Thus the ability to carry higher boost at higher RPM, and allow 28-30 PSI.

Now, the Maximum numbers on any dyno run are only part of the story. While we see 55 more HP out of the 20G at peak, it's actually more like 65 HP better at redline. The best part, however, is the torque...only 15 more at peak, but a whopping 45 more at redline! This illustrates that while we were all over the 'choke point' of the 16G at 400 HP output, the 20G is breathing much better than 16G @ hi RPM. And with all due respect to testing and optimization, I've been running that 16G all season on the track, with 40+ dyno pulls too. With a mere 8 pulls, and no track time, so far on 20G, there's likely still some on the table. But rather than wring its neck on the first dyno session, I called it good @ 403 WHP (really just had to get into the 400's, lol). In any case, I prefer to do an initial dyno just to rough in a new combo, then track test it under real world conditions, then return to dyno with the new accumulated info, then back to track, etc.

There's some other potentially big factors that may be entering the picture now...as we approach 500 HP, some other limitations are almost certainly holding us back. Keep in mind...it's still a stock head, stock cams and valves, stock ignition, stock throttle body, our off the-shelf turbosystem with a 2 1/4" downpipe. Are all these items optimized at 476 HP? Undoubtedly not, but what we are out to prove is not that we have a perfectly realized 500 HP system, but rather that there is amazingly high power available with a very economical and street-friendly set of parts.

You can rest assured, I'd love nothing more than to strap the DFI back on, put on a killer cylinder head, a freeking HUGE turbo and downpipe, an ignition that would light up Pittsburgh,a 3" t/body, take off the air filter, maybe a shot of juice, and just get NASTY. But it wouldn't prove what I am out to prove, which is that a well-conceived set of parts can be amazingly broad in its power capability, and still be TRULY streetable, emissions-legal, and affordable.

However, as this journey is almost completed, 2006 could definitely involve some of the above....muahhahaaa!

PS: The Mitsu compressors we use (14B not included, that's a low-pressure dinosaur), as well as the turbines, are the best available in efficiency vs. broad, real-world capability for the money. You may find compressors that are more efficient in the power ranges we push them to at their maximum, but those turbos will not deliver as well in true-street low and midrange RPM. Anything that matches the Mitsu in these well-rounded aspects typically costs much more. I've researched that aspect thoroughly!



Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft

World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com

Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 10:07 AM
not a hint of detonation, stock computer just crying about 'misfires', LOL! (it isn't misfiring...its just working hard to fire, and thats just fine).


You mean the pesky 0300 code? I get those all the time and cant get them to go away



1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85





Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 10:27 AM
Rodimus Prime wrote:not a hint of detonation, stock computer just crying about 'misfires', LOL! (it isn't misfiring...its just working hard to fire, and thats just fine).

You mean the pesky 0300 code? I get those all the time and cant get them to go away

Ah yes, good old PO300. That's the one! But what it's trying to tell you is not just about 'misfires'. This is actually an amazingly effective part of modern OBDII diagnostics. What this code is capable of showing used to take complex oscilloscope equipment and very knowledgeable technicians to pinpoint. But now, your PCM can do it!

In basic terms, PO300 comes up when the PCM can tell that an actual misfire is occurring. However, it can also tell you that excessive coil current is being sensed, at least in the parameters of the original intent of the PCM engineer, which certainly did not include boosted operation. What causes higher coil current? Firing a plug against boost, for one. Actual misfires, for another.

When we 'boost' an engine, we increase the power requirement to fire the plug in the cylinder. This is why stock ignitions can come up short when faced with boosted applications. But is the evidence of PO300 an indication that we are not firing every pulse? Not always...the higher coil current required to fire against boost is often the culprit.

How does all this help you? Your PCM is trying to tell you something here...here's what I recommend:

Of course, I'm confident that you've tried new sparkplugs, and that when you have, it makes the code 'go away' to some degree, even if it resurfaces later. What's going on when it resurfaces? A couple of possibilities...if your tuning isn't spot-on, a partially fouled plug(s) could be talking to you this way. Look at them closely..if you see signs of a rich mixture, find the cause and correct it. You should also experiment with different plug types, as well as smaller plug gaps, for a smaller gap requires less coil energy to achieve a spark. If doing these things alleviates the problem altogther, you've won. If it just gets better, well..you've still made progress, and can be confident that you have improved the setup. As far as we can tell, PO300 does not affect performance, at least not in short term (have never left it in the PCM for long periods, for I prefer the CEL to be off so that I can always tell if a new code surfaces).



Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft

World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com

Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 10:46 AM
SunCavi, one more side-note from the dyno testing...the 20G made about 30 more WHP @ 17 PSI boost...about 320-ish, vs. 290-ish for the 16G.

Also, the torque peaks were at higher RPM with the 20G, which we'd expect...it takes more airflow to spin the larger compressor, thus more RPM. I am cautiously optimistic that this will be a good thing, for now the torque peaks are more into the effective RPM range we see on the track, whereas with the 16G, it peaked a little early. Now, that's dyno results, which can be skewed somewhat by the time it takes for the turbo to spool up early in the run. Whether this aspect actually makes the car quicker is what we will determine in a couple days!



Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft

World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com

Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 11:18 AM
Bill Hahn Jr. wrote:
You can rest assured, I'd love nothing more than to strap the DFI back on, put on a killer cylinder head, a freeking HUGE turbo and downpipe, an ignition that would light up Pittsburgh,a 3" t/body, take off the air filter, maybe a shot of juice, and just get NASTY. But it wouldn't prove what I am out to prove, which is that a well-conceived set of parts can be amazingly broad in its power capability, and still be TRULY streetable, emissions-legal, and affordable.


Now that is my way of going about it.
I get it, there is more potential, from this 20G than what was brought to the table, this is just a example of what it can do.
I am also, familiar with the capabilities of different Mitsu. Turbos and the power range and those numbers would be NOT possible on a 16G.
Yes, the other Turbos would be such as GT single and duel series which easily dip past $1000 and that is waaaaaay out of MY price range and I understand any J tuner more or less.

So how does feel making your peak hp at damn near red line, I know I make mine at 6400 RPM and I shift at 6300-6400, it sucks for the next gear.

Good luck with your set up and VERY GOOD JOB.
I will be with YOU next year.



Best time:"""11.946""" @ 114.73 mph @17psi 1.83--60"
11 second daily driver!!!!
Race Related 727-561-9440
Shop of choice for your 11 second J body!

Also, built bottom end and or top end LSJ and L61's available.
13's ----12's ----11's ----10's

Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 11:29 AM
SunCavi_L61T3/T04E wrote:So how does feel making your peak hp at damn near red line, I know I make mine at 6400 RPM and I shift at 6300-6400, it sucks for the next gear.

Good luck with your set up and VERY GOOD JOB.
I will be with YOU next year.

Yep, the RPM thing's rather interesting. Ecotecs, even with their very conservative cylinder head ports, LOVE to run at higher RPM, but the head design still makes for a very broad and usable power range, with much 'area under the curve'.

In recent testing with the DFI on the car (I've been very busy playing with combos, this thing fascinates me!), we ran the engine all the way to 7000 RPM. It only then started to drop off in power. The redline on a stock Ecotec is very conservative. Since RPM stress is a big factor in engine life, the fact that a conservative redline is employed is a good thing. Keeps them alive!

Thanks! Good luck to you as well. I can't say enough about how fun this year has been, seeing so many J's step up. These cars flat WORK, and it's about time the rest of the world started seeing it!



Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft

World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com

Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 12:39 PM
Congrats and I can't wait to see the numbers and video from this weekend.







Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 12:53 PM
Yup tried several different types of plugs on my ecotec to no avail, tried gaps from .030 to .050 in increments of 5, tried it with the msd hooked up, tried it with the stock ignition, it doesnt happen all the time and doesnt seem to be weather related ive gotten it anywhere from 50-100 degrees outside, my testing has only been with irridium and platinum plugs which im aware arent really ideal for boost, ive yet to try a copper plug in it i have some compatible part numbers spec wise from several different manf. that im going to try maybe this weekend. Also copper plugs are cheap as hell so its just going to take some testing to find the right one, if i have good results i'll post the p/n

Haven't noticed any immediate decrease in power but it does make me nervous that its there, I like the sense of something being "perfect" or basically without codes.



1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85






Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 1:32 PM
bill, i asked adam, but he wasnt sure. as far as getting past the rev limiter. wouldnt the portfueler be fine? since its not controlled by the stock ecu, it should shut off the injectors at 6500 or 108.
so once that happens and the ecu pulls fuel in the rail, wont everything still be fine with the port fueler supplying the fuel?


13 psi and climbing......

Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 1:37 PM
john the car would end up leaning out due to the loss of fuel from the stock injectors







Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 1:42 PM
So the only engine modifications are forged rods and pistons, valve springs, and retainers?

Nice #'s



Re: Street Ecotec: 403 WHP, 410 WTRQ
Thursday, October 13, 2005 1:55 PM
[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM&00s/c sedans™)]john the car would end up leaning out due to the loss of fuel from the stock injectors
True that. Since the PortFueler injectors are much larger than the stockers, and the engine's well past the detonation flash point of torque peak, the lean condition isn't dangerous, but it definitely won't make good power if you exceed redline.



Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft

World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com

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