I am getting everything ready for the install, so far I have the FPR, 320cc Injectors and FPG on the rail ready to go on, and next need the cartech figured out. Firstly, is there any guide out or around because I havent seen any. Next onto my "specific" question.
1) While looking at the motor from the front the line at the "Right" of the fuel rail (Not the FPR side) is the return line, is that correct?
2) What line do I cut into, the metal part or what?
3) How do I "set or tune" the FMU, I know the bolt on the top adjusts it but how do I know what or how far down to crank it?
4) Exactly how does the FMU work, does it restrict the fuel going back to the tank allowing higher pressure of the fuel thus more fuel to the cylenders?
Just need to tie a couple of loose ends up on understanding this stuff, I have never done anything with forced induction so I am learning. Any info would be great. I am also stumped on the SAFC 2, but thats another post.
Thanks
Chris
http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible
1 the return is coming off the FPR , its the smaller tube of the 2 lines
2 you cut into the line some where you have room to tie into it , and usually on the metal line
3 depnds on the style fmu you have
4 yes
The return line is the line that comes under the fuel rail and goes to the inside of the motor near the IDI cover. Just visually trace it and you will see... it's pretty simple.
Use a fuel line cutter... chop... run your lines to and from the FMU, and you're done. Prime the pump and make sure you don't have any pressure leaks.
As for the adjustable fmu, which one do you have. if it's a BEGI they have an install guide and everything online.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
also you can use some brass fittings for the ends of the FMU where the hose's come into. not sure if it comes with the fmu when u buy it (i got mine used). if u use them fittings to screw into the FMU, get some teflone paste with teflon(they make the paste with out teflon and that sucks). use that on the threads for that and your fuel pressure guage( i tapped mine into the fuel rail with a tap that i forget the size, i had a small 0-100 psi jegs.com fuel PSI guage)
rememeber to use "high pressure" fuel hose from a parts store. i want to say 5/16th . i forget off hand. just take a little chunk of pipe(get a small pipe cutter from the hardware store) you cut off and have them find a hose that fits over it. if u dont use that hose the lines will burst.
get some small hose clamps too.
or you can cut the rubber line down by the fire wall. and then get some brass fittings/barb's from a hardware store and route it that way. that might be easier for you.
pick up some small, about 1/2 long or 5/8th inch self tapping screws when are there to screw the FMU bracket to where u want to mount it.
i mounted mine to the strut tower.
tuning the FMU- well wideband set up is the way to go. but i havent tuned mine. i have the little knob cranked in about 7/8th of the way and my spark plugs look good.
that bigger screw/nut- i dont know, i turned mine up and down and it wouldnt go under 50psi. i have the walbro pump so i think that is the pressure it see's. and plus my stock FPr, WELL stock from another car was always like 48psi at idle with the stock set up, weird.
also you will need a check vavle for the FMU coming off that small adjustment screw knob ma bob thingy. auto parts store should have them too. that is explained in the fmu's instructions., or get the instructions from there website.
u will want some vaccum hose too. i recommend the windsheild washer hose from a auto parts store. it is thick, and easy to work with and comes in a red box/ 6 foot of it i think for like 6-7 $ . not 100% sure. or if u cant find that, ask the parts counter person u want some vaccum hose or you will whip them with the 6 feet of fuel line they just cut for you. (always nice to have a little bit more then u might need just in case)
and u will need a "t" fitting, they have them at a hardware store or parts store. u will tap into your FPR vaccum tube for the Fmu. and then u might want another "t" fitting to tap off of that to your boost guage.
werd to jake on the write up........ very nice.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
I need to revive this, but does anyone have pics of how their FMU is plummed? I just need pics of how it was connected with the GM SC, or any application. I am doing it tomorrow along with the alky kit.
Thanks
Chris
http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible
I've got pics....I'll try to upload them tomorrow morning or maybe tonight.
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
Well, needless to say, the pics I had of it are at my other house, so I snapped a few with my phone real quick. Pics aren't the best, but I hope you can get the idea. Any questions, just ask.
And make SURE to use high pressure fuel injection hose from the auto parts store. I tried using regular high pressure fuel line rated for 170 psi from the hardware store, and it blew apart. Beware it costs $5 / foot at AutoZone or wherever you go, but it works.
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
what brass fittings did you use on that to connect the rubber high pressure line? All i did was put a flare on the end, put the rubber line over it with 2 hose clamps and have been running it like that DAILY for prolly 6-7 months, but the brass looks way better.
go to your local hardware store and they will have what you need.
luke
which fmu do you have? is it the cartech 2025? im jsut trying to figure out the vacum hoses in the pic and i just cant see to well. mainly the first pic. just trying to see which place the check valve hooksup and the vac hose from the mani hooks up
Fst Cavy - Basically, I used a brass fitting from the hardware store that on one end has a compression fitting, and the other end has female threads. I then screwed in a brass barb into the end with the female threads and pushed the injection hose over that and clamped it down.
tampaGT - The check valve goes off the small brass barb on the needle valve. The signal line goes to the single brass barb on the side of the FMU. And yes, it is the Cartech 2025.
Any more questions, just ask.
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
thanks. I'm just basically laying all my pieces out on the floor and and piecing it all together inside to FULLY understand and see what will be happening before i just go out there and start hooking the @!#$ up.
