ok suncavi and I are having a debate, I know 2 people from the org who tapped their block, travis mcnulty for one, in the saab factory return hole, it's a diimple on the back of the block, now is there a chance of shavings going into my motor and ruining my motor? or would you fuys suggest me tapping the oil pan
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
i tapped into the block and didn't have any shavings go into my motor. i had a friend under the car watching just to make sure.
Cost of mods: $2500
Number of headaches: Too many to count
Look on your face when you realize you got beat by a Cavalier: Priceless
wait how can he see inside the block if he's udner the car
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
i dropped the oil pan so i wouldn't get shavings in it. once you do that, you can see the crank and to make sure the drill bit was coming down at the right angle
Cost of mods: $2500
Number of headaches: Too many to count
Look on your face when you realize you got beat by a Cavalier: Priceless
the pan is to low man , the spot i showed you last night is the perfect spot
which is the 1 paco loco is using
can that be tapped with the motor still in?
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
Stop being so anal about this Phil.
Use the factory return dimple like Paco and I.
Guaranteed to work!
I'd say do exactly like paco loco did.
- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.
u can tap it there, i tapped the pan and it has been working fine
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I strongly suggest removing your pan, the picture Paco posted proves it is worth while. That's pretty cool you Eco guys can tap the block. Darn cast block...
Matt S.
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Phil, that is the same place SpeedCraft did Josh's when they turboed his way back. They also removed the pan as well. I was there. Nice place to do it as well.
FU Tuning
Yea, now that I see it is in the main girdle, I am saying definetlly do it there.
I am probably going to do it there, but the way you want to half ass it this coming straight from GM race team. NO. Drop the pan and do it, don't be lazy.
Tonight I went to the Bradenton Speedway, and sure enought there they were the GM Race team testing the Cobalt all in primer, like they did the Sunfire last year.
They had the all drg Cobalt and the blue and silver one on slicks.
I talked to them about the mototrs and why were they here, and they said pretty much with it being this cold this is the only place that they can tune their car right about now and they love this track.
They have the feed cmoing out of the little pipe block in the back of the block(the one of the 3 in the back under the manifold) and they have the retur going exactly where it was shown in the main girdle.
They drilled, tapped and put a fitting in there.
Like I said just for you PHIL I told them about your little situation, and after we talked for about hour and 30 minutes, they said tell your friend not to be lazy and drip the pan and get all the shavings out as he drilles.
So if you want to listen to those guys go ahead, but if you want to listen to the kids here telling you NOT to drop the pan go ahead.
Their 1st pass was a 8.37 @ 170... mph
The 2nd one was -----8.07 @ 171... mph, and that is by messing with the shifting and bumping the sall from 4300 RPM on the 1st pass to 4500 on the second.
I think they know what they are talking about.
Man I had a blast with those guys and also one of them wanted to give me his threaded fitting for the feed line off their SPARE engine that they had in the trailor, but it was tempered with(he showed me, it had a bigger thread so I would still have to re-tap) so he gave me his E-mail and told me to get with him in a few days when they get to Michigen and he said he was gonna send me one for free.
Also, they recognized me from NOPI Nationals, and they saidit was cool that I am such a supporter.
Well that is about it, I got bunch of inside and parts wise and team wise, about my Getrag tranny, the breaking point, wheel hop, engine tunning and stuff.
They said they are going to come here again before March 19th right before Phoenix, and told me to bring my car out. They might be coming out with a intake manifold that will acctually be able to fit in the engine bay without us having to cut the front hood support. lol
SunCavi
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13's
----12's
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It is the girdle not the block. They are separate pieces
Block
<IMG SRC="http://www.igtechinc.com/J-Body/EcotecBlock.jpg">
Girdle
<IMG SRC="http://www.igtechinc.com/J-Body/EcotecGirdle01.jpg">
<IMG SRC="http://www.igtechinc.com/J-Body/EcotecGirdle02.jpg">
Misc Ecotec Parts
<IMG SRC="http://www.igtechinc.com/J-Body/EcotecMisc01.jpg">
<IMG SRC="http://www.igtechinc.com/J-Body/EcotecMisc02.jpg">
Oil Pan
<IMG SRC="http://www.igtechinc.com/J-Body/EcotecOilPan01.jpg">
<IMG SRC="http://www.igtechinc.com/J-Body/EcotecOilPan02.jpg">
Where you should tap for oil return !!!!!!!!!
<IMG SRC="http://www.igtechinc.com/J-Body/EcotecTurboOilReturn.jpg">
<B>This has been discussed MANY times Phil !!!!!</B>
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"Growing old is mandatory. Growing up? Definitely optional." <BR>It's cheaper to blow them up than build them up
stupid html doesnt work in these anymore
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"Growing old is mandatory. Growing up? Definitely optional." <BR>It's cheaper to blow them up than build them up
I wonder how hard it is to drop the pan
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
Shifted (KickAzz) wrote:Drain the oil, couple bolts, comes right off. Get a new gasket while you are at it.
not a traditional gasket, use high temp rtv ultra to reseal (its ~3$ or so). also since it's rtv, you're going to need a couple of pry bars (or a couple of decent size flat heads).
you can see the silicon around the edges (this is right after the pan has been dropped)
then you scrape the old silicon off and wipe it down with some chemicals (can't remember what i used)
Suncavi, I'M THE GUY Phi was talking about, but I DID drop my oil pan.
I don't know where he got the impression that I never did.
No oilpan gasket, Ecotec uses black silicone.
