2.2 ohv turbo build - Boost Forum
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I have a 99 cavalier with a 2.2 ohv motor I have a couple questions first does any one know how I could relocate the alternator to fit the turbo and second were should I run my main oil line from
You shouldn't need to relocate the alternator. I just trimmed whatver portion of the bracket that didn't fit off of the support bracket.
Oil feed, look on the back of the block for a round plug with a 1/4" square drive on it near the oil filter (a 1/4" drive ratchet extension will fit.). I used a 1/4" npt to -3an adapter and ran -3 to the turbo.
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
Thanks that will help alot will I have to upgrade the oil pump to accommodate the turbo?
What is your power goal?
I ran a stock motor around 200whp and it can take way more.
If you're going all out it's worth getting the m98 cause it's like $40, but it depends.
I can be of better help (and others too) if you let us know what you're trying to do
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
I'm hoping to be around 200 whp I currently have a td 04l from a Subaru
Stock motor, log manifold, fmic, injectors, fuel pump (insurance mostly), done
According to my time slips I was somewhere around 200 on low boost on a stock motor. Very easy to accomplish on this motor, provided that the motor in question has been cared for.
I wouldn't even consider internal upgrades of any kind on 200whp. Not till 250+ would I consider any upgrades.
Spend money on decent turbo parts (wastegate, bov, fuel pump, injectors) and have someone who knows j cars tune it and you will be happy with the results. If you get injectors large enough you will be able to pass that 200 without even trying.
Only real fabrication I did on my log setup was the alternator bracket needed cutting, the down pipe needed making, and the charge pipes/fmic. The rest was all still factory. Id have left it that way if I didn't get crazy with it lol.
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
What did you run for injectors and a pump? I've been reading that some injectors from 80a mustangs would work. I plan in running a log manifold with a front mount intercooler and a bypass valve. Also my turbo has internal waste gate so bigger springs?
I started with the stock pump, which I think could have been ok if it were new but it was 150k miles and it was giving up. I cheaped out and went for the blazer pump after that, which I wasn't happy with. Finally ended with an aeromotive stealth 340 pump. I made my own wiring harness to upgrade the wires (used the stock power wire as the signal for a 40a relay and ran power from the battery in the trunk on 10awg for it). For the money, a walbro, racetronix or aeromotive is worth it. Racetronix makes the most direct drop in friendly one, they also sell a harness but I didn't think it was worth it since I just made my own.
Injectors I started with 26, then 60lb. I know ford green top injectors work, and you could probably get away with a set of stock cobalt ss s/c ones for this too. Id recommend 42s. I also have an aeromotive adjustable fpr on the rail, which is boost referenced 1:1.
As for internal gated turbo, I think a boost controller is all you need on there, but my exposure to those types of waste gates is zero so I'm not much help lol.
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
Good luck finding a manifold to mount that turbo to. It will have to be custom, and even then you are
stuck with only Subaru turbos. So there isn't much room for upgrading down the road. You would be better
off selling that turbo and finding something with a t3 flange.
The one in the link looks like my old manifold but mine wasn't cast, it was made of tubing.
T3 definitely a smarter choice. I didn't think of that.
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
Manifold and 42lb injectors are on the way.will the coolant lines on the front of my engine be in the way? Also could you post a picture of your alternator bracket so I can get a idea of how much had to come off.
Heater hose just requires buying a few feet of he same 3/4" and moving it around after the turbo and exhaust are in
I can get pics of the bracket. Mines off the car right now though.
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
that manifold will NOT work with the subie turbo. The subi turbo most likely has a triangular flange and that manifold has a t3 flange.
I know they make adapters otherwise I'm going to do a little custom fab work to make it fit.
Best bet is to get the Subaru flange welded on the manifold. I know with my setup with the log manifold I had to dent the radiator support to make room for the turbo cause it was pushed forward so far. An adapter will decrease available room I would imagine unless it's like a 90* elbow or something
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
It's next to impossible to weld cast buddy.
You obviously don't understand the term custom fabrication I am fully aware it will not fit on the manifold without a little work
It's not impossible to weld cast. It's just not as simple as other materials. It wouldn't scare me off. Just need the right rods and machine to do it.
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
when a manifold such as the one you are looking at is cast in a mold it is very difficult to get good welds to hold on it.
Yes you can weld cast, but the welds will not be very strong and will more than likely crack over time due to all the heat
from the turbo. With the time and money you put into welding a new flange on it would be a hell of alot easier to just sell
the subi turbo and buy a nice garret or borg with a t3 turbine flange. All i'm trying to say is there is a reason subi owners
swap turbos, not downing it it is a good turbo. I'm simply saying it is not worth all the time and effort your going to have to put
into it and when you want to upgrade down the road your very limited to you choices if you have the subaru flange on your mani.
Here is how our alt bracket was done. I ended up removing the part of the bracket that goes over the head stud and relocated it to mount to an exhaust stud for support the welded it on. This allowed us to run a 3 inch down pipe off the turbo. As for injectors we are running Ford Racing green tops which are 42lb/hr injectors and the Racetronix F body pump and harness upgrade. We dyno'd the car at 261whp and 308 wtq. Motor is built minus a ported head because we ran out of money. Injector duty cyle is only in the high 50's low 60's so we have plenty of room to make more power when we fix our boost leak on the bov and get the head ported down the line.
Also personally with how tight everything is I think running an adaptor flange to use the subi turbo might be hard to do. I'd suggest selling it an gettnig a t3 turbo as well. What are your power goals?
I'm hoping to be running around 200 for now until I can build it internally. The adapter is 1 inch thick so I think I can make it work. The turbo has very low miles and I like the internal waste gate and td04 over all so selling it is kinda out of the question for me. Also did you remove your AC to run the 3 inch downpipe?
for a 200whp goal a stock pump will do just fine. This car has the entire ac system removed as it was going to be a track car but the down pipe is setup so it can be reinstalled if my buddy ever wants to.
Agreed on the stock pump, I just figure if its higher miles I would replace it (mine was starting to lean out after about 6 months hard use and it had like 125k on it)
Im still impressed with the amount of time you put into that 3" exhaust on that red car, that had to take a long time!
Noah, depending on the size of the turbo you *might* be able to shove it all in.
On the left side of this pic you can see where I "massaged" the radiator support to get the compressor housing of my old turbo to fit. At the time had I had a welder available I would have scooted the radiator forward like it is now and removed a section of the rad support instead of smashing it with a hammer. I would imagine if you did something like that, it would fit. Just another idea.
Also again on the coolant lines, I tapped the block side of the water neck to run the heater core line behind the turbo and exhaust, tight against the block. You can kind of see it in this picture and my other 2. I plugged the stock port on the water neck with a 1/2" npt plug and some jb weld for extra insurance. It required drilling the thermostat to provide flow for it to open since heated coolant doesnt pass by it any more from the heater core but I think doing that just adds a little more cooling capacity to the motor anyhow. Moving them to the block side gives more room and makes it more aesthetically pleasing lol.
It sounds like youre not afraid of doing some fab to make it work, which is always nice to hear. Too many people like to say that you simply "cant" do things who have never actually tried.
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
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