As you can see, the actuator (regular for 20g 8-9psi) is barely touching the brake booster. Tonight I'm going to see if its possible to unbolt the booster and move it over a little and see if I can get some play in there. I'm asking if anyone else have had issues with this, Brad and Aaron from Hahn both say they haven't heard about this in the past, so I just wanted to pick everyones brain a little and see what t hey have though. My cars never been wrecked so not sure why it might be different than another.
Thanks in Advance,
-E
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I'll double check mine, but I can't say that it's that close.
won't be able to move the break boost over at all. Pretty much made to fit there. You'll see what i mean if you take it off.
Evolution of Cavyboy-->C22t--> C24na--->c24s/c
1995 Cavalier W/2k1 Engine
GM S/C 13.940@99.78pmh w/2.068 60ft
Mine did the same thing, I just got my big screwdriver and pried it away from the brake booster a little bit. I put a cloth between the screw driver and the accuator, and be very carefull it only needs to move a little bit. It took a lot of vibration out and that showed up after the install, poly engine and tranny mounts help to keep anything from hitting too.
Mine doesn't have that problem, either do any of the ther 3 I've seen/played with.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:Mine doesn't have that problem, either do any of the ther 3 I've seen/played with.
Damn we must have off brand j-bodies?
Or maybe it missed its blessing on the way out the factory door.
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I'm going to go with the missing of the blessing.
I'm 1 of 2 Js with GMPP SC problems so it's possible! (known at least!)
I've not done a Hahn turbo install yet but I've read lots on it and that's not normal...hope it all works out and like Wasp96 said, a screwdriver can be your friend!
Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?
Yeah I have a decent amount of clearance on mine, although not enough to shim the wastegate for a little higher PSI.
Well i am hitting solid 14psi in the evenings, I am so sceptical that this is a "8-9psi actuator" either my boost guage is nuts (very possible crappy 150 dollar autometer junk) or its not what its supposed to be. Thing is the car does not run like 14psi, I know its not tuned but Im running stable 11.3 +/- 1 AFR in boost and barely slower than SRT4 from a 50 roll in 3rd.
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I'd be careful at 14psi on a stock motor. There should be a part # on the WG, get that and as HAHN what PSI it's for.
14psi + stock ecotec = BOOM !!! At 14psi you sould be able to pull away from an SRT4.
You might want to try a second gauge.
Have fun with it !! Just don't make any pieces.
This motor just needs to last me until fall, thats what I was thinking 14psi, + no KR or pulled timing + consistant AFRs should equal PWN SRT4, its not there. I have a friend who got hpt tuned on 20g also with port fueler, Im going to check out his HPT files to compare what is different from default maps. He went from 180whp to 220, not quite sure what the difference was start to finish.
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Srt4's should not be a problem beating with this kit. A friend of mine has one and he just did a lot of work to his so he can keep up with me, his does spool faster than mine but thats to be expected with a his smaller turbo. Just can't wait to build the engine and turn the boost up. So anyway, did you get the problem fixed?
BlackEco wrote:This motor just needs to last me until fall, thats what I was thinking 14psi, + no KR or pulled timing + consistant AFRs should equal PWN SRT4, its not there. I have a friend who got hpt tuned on 20g also with port fueler, Im going to check out his HPT files to compare what is different from default maps. He went from 180whp to 220, not quite sure what the difference was start to finish.
220whp with a 20g and HP tuners is not to good. I had mine dynoed at 223whp with a 16g and stock pcm.
slvr05cav wrote:BlackEco wrote:This motor just needs to last me until fall, thats what I was thinking 14psi, + no KR or pulled timing + consistant AFRs should equal PWN SRT4, its not there. I have a friend who got hpt tuned on 20g also with port fueler, Im going to check out his HPT files to compare what is different from default maps. He went from 180whp to 220, not quite sure what the difference was start to finish.
220whp with a 20g and HP tuners is not to good. I had mine dynoed at 223whp with a 16g and stock pcm.
Someone correct me if Im wrong but I think optimal HP output on a 20g is probabally going to be somewhere after stock rev limiter, 16g is going to make better power on a stock motor would be my guess. I set my Rev limiter to 7000 and shift at 6500 without having to worry about hitting fuel cut, unluck when I was N/A still feels like power is increasing close to rev limit.
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wasp96 wrote:Srt4's should not be a problem beating with this kit. A friend of mine has one and he just did a lot of work to his so he can keep up with me, his does spool faster than mine but thats to be expected with a his smaller turbo. Just can't wait to build the engine and turn the boost up. So anyway, did you get the problem fixed?
I ended up pulling the bracket over a little and using a screwdriver, there is clearance between the two now and Im keeping an eye on it and watching paint on break booster for rubbing, When I pull the motor again I am going to shim the motor as far to passenger side as possible before I tighten down mounts and tranny, hopefully that will resolve the issue.
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BlackEco wrote:Well i am hitting solid 14psi in the evenings, I am so sceptical that this is a "8-9psi actuator" either my boost guage is nuts (very possible crappy 150 dollar autometer junk) or its not what its supposed to be. Thing is the car does not run like 14psi, I know its not tuned but Im running stable 11.3 +/- 1 AFR in boost and barely slower than SRT4 from a 50 roll in 3rd.
something is very wrong.. 14psi on a 20g should be able to beat a stage II srt4 not slower then one from a 50 roll. i had no problem putting lengths on a stock srt4 w/lsd from a dead stop when i was on 12psi on a 16G
i dont have that wastegate problem with mine. i have a 15psi actuator though. how cold is it at night when u hit the 14? i know mine his a lil more then 15 at night and drops back down to 15 quick.
http://www.myspace.com/15102113
12.5@116 2.0 60ft
1st night it was 14psi, second day it was running 10psi (hot out), that evening back up to 14psi, Id say 60ish degrees out and dense moist air. I dont know if its a boost guage issue or something else, Im trying to get another guage to cross check with. I don't know what else could be the issue if its really running 14psi, tonight Im checking my plugs and compression, but the motor seems healthy. Could it be an issue with IAT sensor pulling a lot of timing because its in the charge pipe and seeing warm air?
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BlackEco wrote:1st night it was 14psi, second day it was running 10psi (hot out), that evening back up to 14psi, Id say 60ish degrees out and dense moist air. I dont know if its a boost guage issue or something else, Im trying to get another guage to cross check with. I don't know what else could be the issue if its really running 14psi, tonight Im checking my plugs and compression, but the motor seems healthy. Could it be an issue with IAT sensor pulling a lot of timing because its in the charge pipe and seeing warm air?
hot day will give you the real reading. cold air being more dense and whatnot. check the line to your boost gauge. too aggressive of a bend maybe or kink?
my iat is just hanging down by the power steering fluid container.
on the stock 16g and 8psi spring. it would run 8psi day and at night (real cold) it would hit 10. now on my 20g with the 15psi spring. it will usually hit 17 maybe 18 on a cold but then holds 15.
but still even then. u should be able to beat a stock srt4 on that kind of boost.
http://www.myspace.com/15102113
12.5@116 2.0 60ft
I have my Camaro IAT threaded into my chargepipes, and have for over 2 years. It was like that when I went 12.53 too so that shouldn't affect anything.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Im doing the Camaro IAT but just found out my plenum pipe is aluminum and the bung I bought off ebay is steel
Im going to redo that pipe, Im also going to section a piece into the bottom charge pipe since it doesn't fit right with the 20g spacer. Problem is I cant find any steel piping on ebay other than buying a complete kit for 100 bucks.
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Just tap the pipe. It's thick enough.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Thats weird your bottom charge pipe doesn't fit right, mine fit just fine.
BlackEco wrote:Im doing the Camaro IAT but just found out my plenum pipe is aluminum and the bung I bought off ebay is steel Im going to redo that pipe, Im also going to section a piece into the bottom charge pipe since it doesn't fit right with the 20g spacer. Problem is I cant find any steel piping on ebay other than buying a complete kit for 100 bucks.
Are you sure it's Alum? I swore mine was too until I started cutting on it to relocate the BOV. When I did that it started sparking and the metal started to discolor which alum doesn't do.
