so finally i got my car back after months of setbacks. the final verdict. i need more boost.
the engine work done is
both secret cams
port and polish of the head
balanced crank
eagle h beam rods
stainless steel racing valves
new stock valve springs
ross ceramic coated forged pistons 9.0:1 compression lowers from 9.5:1
custom reflash. we made it run rich because i am ordering the i think it is 2.7 or 2.6 pulley. i will deside after some reasearch tonight on the org
bronze valve guides
.20 over bore
and of course complete replacement of all the bearing and everythin else in the engine
and for now just a dyno max muffler, and a high flow cat until i get around to the exhaust. right now i am enjoying no one even knowing what is in my car
once i down the pulley i will drive with it for a while
then next month i plan on installing the 2.5 or 2.4 pulley and using a straight alky injection kit to cool the charge.
the car idles at 600rpm warm
for some reason the a/c compressor pulley doesn't engage so i have no a/c right now but i am fixing it next week, right before i go to get my first quarter mile time.
I am hoping for high 13's
and if you want to know the engine work cost me a total with all the machining $5,750 parts included except for the junk yard engine i needed to replace my old one.
i would suggest getting a header and if you motor was all redone i would have got the s/c ported out so you could actually use the 2.5 pulley otherwise it is just pushing hot air intot the motor irregardless and you are getting rather close to over spinning the s/c
for exhaust you say you just have the muffler so are you still on stock exhaust with just a new muffler? if so i would highly suggest getting a header and at least 2 1/4 inch exhaust.
if you knew you were going to keep the gm s/c i would totally have kept the stock compression and if not actually gone a bit higher to make more power cause after the 2.6 pulley and alky unless you port the s/c out, its pretty much maxed out
i would also get a bigger throttle body and hopefully you arent using the stock s tube air intake or even a wai that resides in the engine bay still either
for right now there is a wai
the lower compression has created a good idle for me. i noticed with a few cars that did a sim build on their z they had didling problems.
i am taking my time with the exhaust i want the car to seem as stock as possible so until i find a great solution in exhaust choices that will create a quiet good solutions this will do.
as far as right now i just ordered the 2.7 pulley from pulley boys with the pulley puller, after that is in for a little i will add the alky injection see how i like it then move down. i am prolly going to end up at the 2.6 pulley
new update lol
just put in the boost gauge it reads 4.5psi as soon as i get to 2,000 or so rpm and just moves up to 5psi as the rpms rise. i should be getting the 2.7 pulley soon i ordered it today.
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ok i just ordered a stage 1 engine run up kit.
when you got your block bored .20 over did u get it resleaved or just put the pistons in as is. a lot of the machine shops around me have been saying different things. one they say that if i get it bored then they have to put a sleeve in it, but they cant put a sleeve in it because the sleeve wont hold... so they wont do the work for me. im a noob when it comes to engine work.
the pistons are in as is.
the pistons are redesigned. we had the rings moved further down.
the machine shop said that when the engine is cold the gap os 60 thousands, when it warms up it is 30 thousands. he said that it was due to the material the pistons were made of.
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Yah, forged pistons expand more than cast pistons.
Quote:
when you got your block bored .20 over did u get it resleaved or just put the pistons in as is. a lot of the machine shops around me have been saying different things. one they say that if i get it bored then they have to put a sleeve in it, but they cant put a sleeve in it because the sleeve wont hold... so they wont do the work for me. im a noob when it comes to engine work.
Do they know that you have a cast iron block?
Cardomain|
Myspace
well i am guessing on the sleeved thing. i can ask the machine shop next time i go to long island. i will be stopping there before i go to the nj meet in two weeks.all i know is it runs sweet and is dying for that pulley and alky kit to come
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I'm bettin' it's a
.020 overbore. NOT .20...
"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"
Yea, forged pistons will expand much more than a factory cast piston will. In my built motor, it doesnt run the best until it is warmed up. Also, why would you need to sleeve a 4cy cast iron block. I would stay away from the shops taht say it needs to be sleeved.
john317(AKA Gary the Old guy) wrote:I'm bettin' it's a .020 overbore. NOT .20...
my baddd
i will post on it when i do the new pulley, battery relocation, alky injection, and add my little touch a quad 4 idi cover....... give me a week-week 1/2
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