I didn't want to put this in the racing forum since I think my car may not be running correctly. It's a Hahn Stage 2 with full exhaust and SRT-4 injectors. Pretty simple. I had several 1/8 mile runs last night and only 3 1/4 mile runs since they had timing issues with 1/4 mile timing. Anyways, I in no way claim to be a good drag racer. I was running my autox tires since that is what I had to use. Falken Azenis 615's with only 25 psi in them. The track was a bit wet from some slight sprinkles and it was about 65 degrees. Now that the conditions are out of the way here is my BEST run of the night from a time standpoint.
R/T .374
60' 2.298
330 6.382
1/8 9.689
MPH 76.75
1000 12.445
1/4 14.792
MPH 95.83
This time in no way satisfied me and I expected to run in the 13's from what I have seen and heard about Hahn Stage 2's. I don't believe after my runs last night that any amount of driving on my part could have even got me close to 13's. My question to you guys is whether or not this slip here looks like a correctly functioning car. I just wonder if I am running too rich or something. I plan to buy a wideband when the funds allow. Thanks for any help or input you can provide me.
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
looking at a timeslip is not going to tell you rich or lean, get a wide band or dyno tuned with a wideband before you blow that crap up. i don't know what hahn uses a fuel mangement, but i doubt its perfect.
No I didn't think it was harsh, I'll take any advice or constructive criticism I can get. Well I don't think that any amount of driving would make up over a second of difference and that is what bothers me. I hear others with the same setup I have going much faster. My best guess, besides better driving, is that the car might be too rich, but I don't know if that is enough of a factor to produce such piss poor results. If I did buy a wideband, my concern was that with the Hahn setup, I may not be able to adjust it enough to really get benefit from it. Is that a correct assumption or not? I don't wanna throw money at the problem that's all.
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
actually his trap speed is more inline with his time , high 90's and low 100's are 13 sec times
more so the low 100's
i usually run mid to low mid 14's in my cav with trap speeds in the 94-95 range , but my traps suffer slightly cause im a auto
if it was raining at all the humidity prob didnt help you out at all
and not having the car tuned , or a wide band o2 , its a wonder you havent hurt anything yet
get the wide band ASAP , and get it dyno'd so you can get the most out of it , and keep it on the rich side , cause youll need it with the hot weather coming
your elevation above sea level wil also effect your overall time. some of those 13sec guys might be a sea level where as you may be above.
i also should put my times were on azenis sports , the old design
you gotta do a big burn out to get um hot so they work
Will the info froma wideband be beneficial to my setup though? The Cartech FMU can only adjust base fuel pressure and has a screw for max fuel pressure. That is it. If it will work for me then definetly I will get one. As I stated before I don't want to throw money at a problem unjustified.
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
My bad. That is what I meant. There are 2 screws on the unit and they work as you described Shifted. I have been looking into an LM-1 wideband to help me out. What AFR should I shoot for with my current setup? The LM-1 displays both lambda and AFR but only versus time, not RPM. I know you can get an rpm attachment but its a lot more. Does anyone here tune versus time? If its possible then I think I may go that route for the time being.
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
Shifted wrote:Your 60 foots really suck, your trap speeds are in line with 13's, work on your shifts and launches.
meh? so far as the average on this site goes, 2.2 is far from sucking... sucking is the 2.4+ times that people post pretty frequently. They're not GREAT, by any standard, but they're OK... room for improvement there.
To the OP.... now wait a minute.... Take your dominant hand.... hold it about a foot from your face, with the palm facing you.... No proceed to slam the heel of your palm into your forehead
What on earth are you thinking boosting around and going racing when you have NO idea what state of tune your car is in? It could be rich, it could be lean as hell. Granted, its more likely to be way too rich but the point is that you have NO idea. Why not just jump out of a plane without checking to make sure you have your parachute on and its actually packed properly? Do you understand that if your engine is lean enough to rob power it is also lean enough to detonate and punch holes through your pistons? Without a wideband, your engine is essentially a pinata surrounded by clones of babe ruth with congenital dwarfism.... It might not happen today, it might not happen tomorrow, but sooner or later, one of them is gonna connect, and its gonna do damage.
Stop getting into boost at all until you have a wideband installed. You're looking for a 12.0-12.5:1 afr while in boost and 14.7:1 at idle and no-boost cruising.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
oh, and to answer the question asked in this thread's title..... YES, there's something wrong with your car, but there's also something wrong with its owner being ill-prepared and ill-researched to be boosting his car. I'm not saying this to insult you, although the frustration caused by this post almost made me slam my head on the desk.... but seriously, what would possess you to strap a turbo onto your car with no apparent clue how it should work together with your engine?
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
Thanks for the info Scarab. I would like you to understand why I did that though. I talked to Hahn a few times and they always told me where to keep the fuel pressure to run correctly. I asked about a wideband and they said it wasn't needed. It didn't seem awesome, but they were the experts so I trusted them. I have followed their tuning manual to the letter and have experienced no problems thus far. The first real sign was a lack of performance. But I agree with you in that I should have put the money up front for a good wideband. I have learned from this mistake and would appreciate any more constructive feedback on this subject. I am not concerned with my racing, but rather just getting the car to perform well and safely. And yes, I did proceed to slap my palm to my forehead already
!
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
hahns recomendations are based from their shop and their testing
which depending where you should get you in the ballpark , but wont get you a home run
the home run will come from getting the afr in the right range , which means either dyno testing , or having a wide band your self
having the wideband your self means you can constantly moniter the afr , which will also alert you if there is a problem , going over rich or over lean
the rest once the afr is set is learning how to drive the car again , on boost is alot different than n/a
