Don't use them.

They get really hot, really fast.

I just installed them today w/ my side-firing 3157 LED bulbs for the front turn signals.

Get the electronic component flashers... James, I highly recommend getting one instead of the load resistors I gave ya (the brass things).

With that said, are the stock turn sig flashers 2 pin or 3 pin (I haven't been able to find mine, but will look this weekend)

um, resistors, use heat to shave off the current, duh they are gonna get hot

The stock flasher is a 5-pin unit.

Machzel08 wrote:um, resistors, use heat to shave off the current, duh they are gonna get hot

See, I knew that part already, but for those folks that don't and try to mount these near something plastic....

5-pin flasher, huh.... oh hell. That's gonna be fun to track one down for LED usage.

I've got two spare ones here... I'll ship ya one you can crack it open and mess around with it

It's bright green, same size as a bosch relay, and mounted on a plastic tab above the gas pedal.

Thanks John

If you're able to come down to HIN, I can pick it up then -- kill two birds

If not, you can shoot me a PM w/ asking price, etc.

Unless..... one for a newer Caddy w/ OEM LED tails will work, since they use incandescent fronts.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:17 PM

Dude, you can HAVE it!! I don't need them. I'll bring it with me to HIN...!

Rob, what's the wattage size on those load resistors?

you could just wire a larger one outside of the headlight itself. just use a slightly larger wire.


Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

50w 6 ohm.

They are needed to regulate the blinker speed so you don't have "blinkers on crack"

The passenger side is the critical one... W/ the evap tank there, if not mounted properly, it can catch something on fire

that's the only thing I can think of, unless you put them in some sort of case with a heat sink, or go to a larger rated resistor.
do you have a schematic drawn up for this?


Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

No schematic. They are preassembled and various LED bubl storefronts carry them (check superbrightleds.com)

I'm working on a bigger heatsink right now until I can get an EL flasher that will work for j's.

Finally, an excuse not to use the blinker

sweet. can't wait to see the setup bro.


Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

Well Im thinking i'll just mount these in the bumper far enough away from the plasticy stuff, what you think? I dont wanna melt anything headlight related or otherwise, not again at least, LOL.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, August 25, 2006 1:29 AM

As long as they are mounted to metal, away from plastic and the evap tank, shouldn't be any worries.

Where would you mount load resistors in the trunk for LED tails?




Gotta keep on livin', L-I-V-I-N

part # for flasher

Grote p/n 44090 5 pin led flasher

bone stock z wrote:Where would you mount load resistors in the trunk for LED tails?

Strut tower.

Kardain, thanks. How do you keep them off the carpet, and are the JamStrait resistors any good, or where could I buy some good ones?




Gotta keep on livin', L-I-V-I-N

Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried relays for LED tails? I'm planning on doing this with my setup.

I haven't really checked into it completely, but I believe a momentary relay will have enough current draw to keep the blinker going normal.

Quote:

How do you keep them off the carpet

the tower should be far enough away from the carpet.

Quik -- what relays were you thinking of? I can test it next weekend (leaving town this weekend)

Standard SPST momentary relays. If you're familiar with the types, there are latching relays, where a charge will cause it to switch from one output to another, or switch from on to off, or off to on, and there are single throw momentary relays, where they will only connect as long as they are charged. The momentary type is a typical use in automotive, where a high current circuit (such as high wattage headlights, foglights, etc.) is run through a relay so that the switch inside the car does not have to run the high current, and also keeping the amount of wire that the high current runs through shorter and more efficient.

The type of relays I'm talking about can me purchased from almost any electronic supplier, Radio Shack used to even carry them, but they have stopped carrying a lot of that type thing to make room for their increase in cell phones and accessories. The info that we need is the current draw on the control side of the relay. Let me know if you do find this info.

Quote:

If you're familiar with the types

Intimately

Excellent. Momentary SPST is what I'm looking at. If you get the chance, test the current draw on a 3157, then test the control side of the relay. I'm hoping they're close enough for it to work. I haven't bothered with this yet because I've got far more important things going on with the car right now, but I am always brainstorming.

Kardain, thanks. Another 2 quick questions. The Brake lights wrok fine, but the running lights can barely be seen even at night, and I've obviously got the hyper blink. Are the resistors going to fix these issues? Also, which color wires do I tap with the resistors?




Gotta keep on livin', L-I-V-I-N

The resistor will not fix the dim running lights. They will help slow down your blinker speed.

Are you using a custom LED setup, or LED replacement bulbs? If you are using custom, you can just lower the value of the resistors inline with the LEDs used for the running lights. If you're using replacement bulbs, not much you can do, other than trying to modify them.