Well today i had a friend look at my old amp Pyramid Crystal 1000W and he ended up being able to fix it for me so now i have 2 1000W amps witch one should i use for my subs?
Here are the specs for my amps
Nitro 1000W amp
BUILT IN FULL CROSSOVER
VARIABLE LOW PASS FILTER: 30-250Hz
VARIABLE HIGH PASS FILTER 50-1-KHz
VARIABLE BASS BOOST: 0-18dB
VARIABLE GAIN/LEVEL CONTROL
FREQUENCY RESPONSE: 20Hz-30KHz
REGULATED MOSFET POWER SUPPLY
MONO BRIDGEABLE & STABLE AT 2-OHMS
SOFT DELAYED REMOTE TURN-ON
HIGH LEVEL & LOW LEVEL INPUTS (SPEAKER/RCA)
45-DEGREE ANGLED SPEAKER & POWER SUPPLY CONNECTORS FOR EASY INSTALLATION
ADJUSTABLE INPUT SENSITIVITY
GOLD PLATED RCA CONNECTORS
GOLD PLATED POWER & SPEAKER TERMINALS
2-8 OHM LOAD CAPACITY
3-WAY PROTECTION WITH LED INDICATOR
DUAL COLOR POWER & PROTECTION LED INDICATORS
RMS POWER (4-OHMS)100-WATTS X 2-CH
RMS POWER (2-OHMS)150-WATTS X 2-CH
RMS POWER (BRIDGED) 300-WATTS
PEAK POWER OUTPUT 1000-WATTS
MIN IMPEDANCE UNBRIDGED 2-OHMS
MIN IMPEDANCE BRIDGED 4-OHMS
THD @ RATED RMS POWER 0.03%
SPEAKER LEVEL INPUTS: YES
BUILT IN CROSSOVER: HP (50Hz-1KHz), LP (30-250Hz)
BASS BOOST 0-18dB
SIGNAL TO NOISE RATIO: 95-dB
FUSE RATING: 30A
DIMENSION: 280MM X 65.5MM X 308MM
Pyramid Crystal 1000w amp
500 Watts x 2 Output
1000 Watts x 1 Bridged Output
Variable Hi/Lo Electronic Crossover Network
Variable Bass Boost (0 - +18dB @ 60Hz)
Variable Input Level (Gain) Control
Remote Turn On/Off
Gold Plated RCA Inputs
High Level Molex Inputs
Power On LED Indicator
LED Protection Indicator
S/N Ratio: > 95dB
THD: < 0.04%
Thermal Protection
Overload Protection
Short Circuit Protection
Anti-Thump Turn-On
Remote Bass Boost
MOSFET Circuitry
2 Ohm Stereo Stable
Dimensions: 10.9" x 2.4" x 11
The subs are Alpine Type-E here are the specs on them
12" 4-ohm subwoofer
Kevlar®-treated pulp woofer cone with Santoprene rubber surround
dual oversized Nomex® spiders
frequency response: 28-1,000 Hz
power range: 50-250 watts RMS
peak power: 750 watts RMS
sensitivity: 89 dB
if ur subs are single 4 ohm voice coils, u need whatever amp says it has 600 or more watts bridged at 2 ohms. if noy use the one that has more power at stereo at 4 ohms.
Is that Nittro amp stable to 2ohm stereo, or bridged (it's not clear from your specs)? If it's 2-ohm stable when bridged, use your Nittro amp and wire your subs in parallel. If not, do like dustin said and use whichever amp puts out more (RMS, not peak power) in 4-ohm stereo.
i replied in this topic....where'd it go?
oh yea..i said they are probably the same boards anyway....i wouldn't imagine their being much of a difference between them
--------------------------------------------------------------
Offical dealer for the following-
SOUNDSTREAM
DB LINK
DB DRIVE
PANASONIC
GARMIN
ROSEN
SCOSCHE
XE DESIGNS
SOUNDGATE
PAC
LITEGLOW
oh yea..i remember..you posted this same topic twice!!
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=4&i=108807&t=108807
--------------------------------------------------------------
Offical dealer for the following-
SOUNDSTREAM
DB LINK
DB DRIVE
PANASONIC
GARMIN
ROSEN
SCOSCHE
XE DESIGNS
SOUNDGATE
PAC
LITEGLOW
yea i noticed that now my girlfriend posted this for me before and i forgot.
articzap wrote:Quote:
MIN IMPEDANCE BRIDGED 4-OHMS
My bad. I read "MONO BRIDGEABLE & STABLE AT 2-OHMS" and totally missed the rest.
Back to the topic of shopping for amps, it's not too difficult finding reliable 500-600 wrm used class d sub amps (ebay, carsound/sounddomain classifieds etc) for under $250. If you can swing it, buy new - you can't go wrong with having a warranty on electronics.
