Ok so far this is what I have and what I want to do, But I need some more info to continue on.
I have a P&P head, 5 angle valve job, stainless valves (oem sized), Crane cam, Crane pushrods, Crane 1:6 rockers, cometic NA head gasket (thinner than oem).
What im buying next is...
Eagle rods, clevite 77 main, cam, rod bearings, and full ARP studs top to bottom.
I need to know what else ill need to prepare for a 100 shot of direct port n20. suck as what compresion to run, and what ignision setup to use.
please help me finish my setup before i buy a bunch of crap that wont work
for ignition just go with MSD, better spark, more power, and you can retard the timing.
personally I'd go 10.5:1 for the pistons but your gonna need to see if the valves will clear or if you'll need valve reliefs (depending on your cam)
yea, its not so much the lift on my cam is the duration i belive that was changed
if its just longer duration you whoudl be alright, when your putting it all tegether double check it.... get the botom end all together and the head just finger tight on the block, with a piston at TDC put a chunk of playdoh on it just tuen the cam, go a full 2 turns on the cam and pull the head back off and you will see marks in the playdoh from the valves and you can see how much clearance there is, cause kee in mind high rpm there is probobally gonna be some valve float, the springs should take car of a majority of it, expecially if your not gonna be reving much over factory rev limiter. you sound like you have it preayt well sort out...
a couple other recomendations.. do the water pump, thermostat, timing chain, and oil pump while its all apart. its better to do it now and have it all new parts going in then get it all tegetehr and start pulling it apart few monthes down the line. I take it everythign is getting regasketed and resealed and everything?
one other thing, if you want to go real high with the compression you imhgt want to look into a thicker core radator, high compression on a little 4 banger leads to hot spots and blown head gaskets, if you want to high make sure you can keep it cool to avaoid problem.
That just about finishes it up! Might want to start looking into your fuel pump just to be safe. Maybe an FPR or AFPR
N2O + Bolt-ons
= 220Hp/
250Tq
Coming Soon:HpTunersPro, EagleConnectingRods, WiescoPistons, 13sec2200
id be a little hesitant to run such a high compresson with a 100 shot thats more in the 8.5 -9.5-1 ratio zone. it would be slower on the street but you wont be sweeping up pistons at the track.
^^^^ low compression for boost, high compression for N/A and nitrous
don't give advise unless you knwo what your talking about
^^^^^ hey i apologize i was off. Im used to the boosting world where detonation is always just about there when pushing the limits and compression ratio is lowered to reduce the chance. I took note that his cam probably was not very aggressive and had little or no extra lift and would not bleed off cylinder pressures until higher rpm's. I plan on turning the boost way down and running a direct port setup for the spring (thats why i stuck my head in the nitrous forum). Anyway DarkStars knows his stuff dont listen to me haha
Phaltcav--I still am debating on my compression for my 2200 build as well. Yesterday I was passed on I-355 on my way to a friends house by a turbo cav.....and i thought of going 8.5-9.5 just incase i want to go turbo later, but i still want to go 10.5 as planned for my dp setup im switching to...Man i hate this its too hard to decide. Maybe i should buy a J-sedan to turbo next. Do you have your cam specs from the regrind?
later
Jeff
When in doubt......let the stock compression fight your bout!
Yea, that was my attempt to rhyme!
N2O + Bolt-ons
= 220Hp/
250Tq
Coming Soon:HpTunersPro, EagleConnectingRods, WiescoPistons, 13sec2200
holy crap 268! Hope you plan on revving the piss out of it... thats a 4000-7000rpm cam
yea the cam is gone, im keepeing stock bottom end for a bit and running a 50 shot direct port.
