Iam am going to be buying a a zex dry shot nitous kit in the spring and need to know what i will need for a 75 shot or a 100 shot.I have almost all the bolt ons like header, intake, underdrive pulley,full exhaust, fidanza flywheel,and stage 2 clutch,ho intake manifold. THANKS
listen if you put a 75-100 shot dry on your car . you might as well buy a new motor !!!! because when you push that button the engine is going bye bye !!!! you need a wet kit you must no questions asked inject more fuel at that amout !!!!also you will need to retard the timing a few degrees with a 100 shot.
13's or blowning it. one way or the other!
75 shot dry is acceptable IMO, but never try to spray 100 shot dry. Make sure you use copper core plugs (no platinum and frankly, iridium isn't any better in nitrous applications) and go at least one step colder in the heat range of the plug. That should be all you need, just be careful not to spray such a large shot at low rpms. On the 75 shot, don't spray below 3000 rpm, ever. On the 100 shot, don't spray below 4000 rpm, EVER. It would be in your best interest to set yourself up with a fool proof means of doing that. I installed an RPM window switch on my car to ensure that I don't spray too low, or too high (past fuel cutoff). As far as retarding timing on the 100 shot, if you can afford an MSD DIS II box, go for it, and set the nitrous retard to go 2-4 degrees retarded on the spray, if not, don't sweat it too much, I haven't done anything with the timing on my car and I've been spraying the 100 shot for 2 years now. Just do yourself one big favor, NEVER SPRAY WITH ANYTHING LESS THAN 93 OCTANE GAS IN YOUR TANK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I can't stress that enough, really. Anything you can do to foolproof your system is highly encouraged. I put the health of my engine in my own hands a little more than I'd reccomend anybody else do with the way my system is set up, but if I had the money, I'd have as much into my setup as some people have in their budget turbo kits. The best possible system would include the basics (WOT switch, bottle heater and guage, colder copper plugs) and all of these accesories- RPM window switch, Hobbs switch (in case of sudden loss of fuel pressure), MDS DIS II to retard timing, a wideband O2 sensor and dispay, and if you want to run a large shot it would also be a good idea to run a progressive nitrous controller. You have no idea how hard it is to effectively put 290 lbs ft of power to the ground on launch in a FWD car, even on drag radials. Beyond all that, use common sense and don't let pride get in the way. If you feel that there might be something going wrong when you hit the spray, get out of it, even if it costs you the race. And learn the proper way to get out of it. Don't just close the throttle completely, close it enough to deactivate the WOT switch, but keep the air and fuel flowing so you don't have a backfire. I see too many people here and elsewhere that see what I run and think anybody can do it. That's when the crap hits the fan. If you don't know every aspect of how nitrous works and what it can do in every circumstance, don't even put a kit on your car. I've already accidently opened the nitrous solenoid with the engine shut off (before the rpm window switch) while I was demonstrating how the system works to a friend of mine. If I wouldn't have known better, I might have started the engine the next time and wondered why it blew up. But I knew the nitrous was sitting in my intake, ready to make a mess, so I disconnected the ignition plug to the IDI cover and turned the engine over for a couple seconds, waited, and turned it over some more before I started it again. Many people who use nitrous are accidents waiting to happen becasue they don't know about stuff like that.
I usually don't post stuff in here too much anymore, because it always ends up being a real long post, lol. But nitrous is no joke, so I want to make sure everyone is aware of all the potential pro's AND con's of using it. Don't feel like I'm insulting anyone's intelligence, it's better to lay it all out there even if you know it already, then give you only half of the advice, and have you come back crying when something breaks.
i want to see nitro's post as a sticky. this asked almost daily
"IF YOU PERSIST IN DOING WHAT YOU HAVE ALWAYS DONE .....
EXPECT RESULTS NO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY ACHIEVED"
Ok so say i go with a wet shot insted. Then what i need Injectors,fuel pump, retard the timing. or what else am i going to need. ok just say i go with wet 100 shot k. what am i going to to need Every thing i will need.
you will be spending some cash to make that motor handle a 100 shot.. your basically giving it a 66% boost in power... everything would have to be just right for a 100 shot... lots and lots of tuning.. not to many people here have done that (as far as i know) but off the top of my head.. prolly need to retard the timing( so go buy one of thos mds-dis 2 i think).. then prolly make sure the engine is in perfect working order.. other than that i would suggest a progresive shot.. something that might start out at 50 to 60 and then move up to 100 shot.. say over hte course of 2 or 3 seconds.. that way the engine can get weened onto the power.. a rebuild will prolly be in your best interest with fordged pistons and some new rods... not to mention having the cracnk treated and possibly the valves (just to save trouble later).. i would guess around 3 to 4 thousand should cover all of it... good luck..
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soon 2 b boosted (this weekend wrote:i want to see nitro's post as a sticky. this asked almost daily
Only problem is not enough people read the sticky. I was going to post up a step by step how to loaded with tons of pics (ten timed easier to understand then any manual) of how to do a wet kit on a eco. But after all the re-posts of the same stuff over and over I figured it would be a wast of time.
See my above post. I've been running 100 shot wet on my stock engine with no timing retard for two years. I have a grand total of around $700 into my nitrous setup including the rpm window switch. But also as stated above, I reccomend utilizing as many control/saftey devices as your pocketbook can handle. If you want the absolute bare bones list of what you will need, here it is, but do this at your own risk.
1. NGK Tr6 copper core plugs (or Tr7's for extra safety)
2. A wet single fogger nitrous kit for EFI applications. (also reccomend a bottle heater and N20 pressure guage at this power level to avoid running overly rich)
3. Enough sense to not spray below 4 grand or above 6 grand (actual fuel cutoff is 6300, but the 2.4 revs so quick on the 100 shot that you'd better be off that button by the time your tach hits 5800-6000 rpm.
That's it. Good luck. And read my other post again, please. The more control you leave to electronics and get human error out of the picture, the better off you'll be. Add every failsafe you can afford, it's cheap insurance compared to the price of a new motor.
Nitro, thats one of the best explanations, and definitely one of the best posts I've read on the.org.
Good work.
nitro copy and paste and start this thread over in hopes of it being a sticky.
"IF YOU PERSIST IN DOING WHAT YOU HAVE ALWAYS DONE .....
EXPECT RESULTS NO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY ACHIEVED"
I tried to have the mods sticky my crap already, but it just gets ignored. Like my thread about jet sizes for wet kits. At least they archived that one.
its a shame. if they would just sticky the everyday questions and let people who was just retarded or had a NEW question start threads the band withdth would probably drop a lot. that would cost less money. just a thought.
"IF YOU PERSIST IN DOING WHAT YOU HAVE ALWAYS DONE .....
EXPECT RESULTS NO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY ACHIEVED"
