ok so heres the deal. i think i know whats wrong with my system but i just want some more confirmation and ideas.
yesterday i FINALLY finished wiring in my NX N-Tercooler setup. got it all done and clicking at about 1:20AM.
today i went to do a final install on the push button. so i disconnect it and slide the wires through the nut and washer, slide the button into the hole, slide the nut up and tighten it down and reinstall the wires. i flip the main power switch and hit the button. nothing. no clicking or anything. so now im thinking i left a wire off partway. so i take a look and make sure everything is seated and try again. still nothing. so i unhook the wires and pull the button out and push it. the button clicks like its supposed to so i think thats ok. pull the wires through the hole and reconnect it. try again. still nothing. so then i check the access pole on the power switch. nice and tight.
unfortunately at this point i had to go and get food for the shop and was never able to look at it again because i had to go to my other job too.
basically from looking at the wiring schematic and my wiring ive noticed that since neither the push button OR the WOT switch make anything click theres only 3 real possibilities. its gotta be something that relates to all 3 switches. this can only be...the solenoid, the relay, or the main power switch.
well the main power switch is good because the power and ground are the same as those that power my gauges (fuse box battery hot) and the gauges work fine. this leaves the noid and relay. i know how to test both and im gonna tomorrow just wanted to see it there are any other thoughts.
thanks. i really wanna have this thing spraying for my race this sunday.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
if its like a N2O siliniod..... you can over heat them, and fry them if your not running spray threw them...... idk how long you had it on....
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
didnt think i had it on long at all but i guess the wires could have touched when they were diconnected. oh well...time to call NX for a new one.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
make sure every wire from the relay goes somewhere (even if you do not use it for it's specific purpose) like if there is a line for w fuel pressure saftey switch it needs to be grounded ---
other then the I do not know I would just go through and make sure everything is connected correctly
i figured it out. stupid me melted the inside of the switch
i went to radio shack and bought a couple new ones and its all good. took the old one apart and it was scorched. LOL. oh well....at least it was only a $2 fix.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
ha make sure none of the wire is exposed --- so it will not happen again
LOL I was just gonna post it's the button. For all of you who run things on those plastic enternal toggle switches.. this happens alot. The inside melts when it gets hot and the button's toast. That's why I use the metal ones. If you have a plastic or a 'lighted" toggle.. always make sure to check it first for problems if somethign happens and things dont work. they're schyte for lasting if it gets to hot. Glad you found the prob and headed it off
Just like Lost INdentity said make sure there are no parts of any of the wires exposed. I even cover the peiced that attatch to the button, so the hot doesnt by some freek nature arch off and spark on something lol... believe it or not weirder stuff has happend. Make sure you just double or triple check everything when wiring stuff, better to be safe than sorry
Faith is to believe what you do not see; the reward of this faith is to see what you believe.
-Saint Augustine
Yeah i went through about 6 and said forget it, switched to the 2 prong metal switches that wont burn up inside fo rmy exterior neons/ inerior neons. Got tired of replacing switches LOL
but i did happen to buy the plastic lighted switches for my nitrous button panel install I did. For my 'future' N-tercooler, remote bottle opener & bottle heater. expensive switches too $7 a peice. lol plus my nitrous arming switch was $19. haha but it's a metal switch.
Faith is to believe what you do not see; the reward of this faith is to see what you believe.
-Saint Augustine
i think it happened when i went to put the nut on the bottom part and tighten it down. i think the connectors spread and happened to touch the nut for too long.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
sounds like your ground isnt workin maybe u have it grounded bad? thats what was up with mine!
ok last time...EVEYTHING IS FINE NOW! i must have jumpered the 2 wires together with the nut by accident. just replaced the switch and im all good now
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
that may be but Hypsy>Shifted
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
