every now and than people will ask about some part they found on ebay so y dont we just post the parts we have on out cars and how we feel about them
i have the Xentec 8k hid kit on my car and even tho it has had a lot of negative reviews i havent had any problems with it
why would you buy something with alot of negative reviews?
Sig thanks to bxmobkrazey on gmscf.com
bought it b4 i found bad reviews and i like to live on the edge
Oh man, you sure are a thrill seeker.
I'm new here with a cavy now, but in the past with other cars I have had pretty good luck with ebay purchases.
Xentec sucks. It. Won't last long, and I'd be surprized if you won't have some flicker.
i been rocking them for a while now i just sealed them up better and put them in a place where they wont get so wet i drive gravel roads all the time and been takin the car thru the sloppy @!#$ with no problems and no flicker
ill post up if they go to @!#$ because the main reason i started this thread is for people to put up what they bought and how they feel for people building on a budget so they know what to try out and what to stay away from i know a lot of people that has had good luck with ebay and some that got screwed
I've had them before. Sent back a ballast and two sets of bulbs because they were flickering like a candle. I finally replaced with Morimoto, and it's 1,000x better.
If you search on Youtube "xentec flickering", you'll find some videos people have put up about them, with the exact problem. The reason is that they do not put enough halide salts in them, which is where the light comes from. This results in the plasma not filling the capsule, and swirling around inside of it, causing the beam to flicker like a candle. This also causes them to run hotter, and have a shorter lifespan.
Here's a couple:
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, March 05, 2012 6:23 AM
well thanks for all your opinions its exactly y i made this thread but can we move on to what someone else has used/have like obx parts or the cheap fuel pumps anything off of ebay that isnt something brand name im hoping to kill all of the "has anybody used (insert part here)" threads and get them all into one thread i know its wishful thinking but screw it its worth a shot
My original EMUSA turbo wastegate has held up pefectly fine for over 3 years, and I only bought another one because I'm switching to a V-band style WG. They have the fabric impregnated silicone diaphragm just like TIAL wastegates. My buddy has had the same one on his Focus SVT, only slightly different style, for over 3 years as well with no problems. Only thing we did was disassemble and check everything to make sure they were correct. (They were.) and we reassembled with red loctite.
My Ebay RFL blow-off valve has performed flawlessly since I got it over 5 years ago. Only thing with these type of BOV's (even the Greddy ones) is that you have to take them apart and clean them up and re-grease them once or twice a year. That's just the name of the game with all these types of BOV's since they have a large opening that vents to atmosphere. They have the same brass pellet design as the authentic Greddy BOV's. Only thing I did was polished the brass pellet to make it perfectly smooth since it had VERY small CNC machine marks on it, just like the Greddy one's do.
My buddy with the turbo Focus SVT has the OBX rams horn turbo manifold, and it is honestly a beautiful piece. Nice thick flanges and tubing. 3 years of hard use and it has never cracked, warped, or failed in any way. His Ebay 60 A/R turbo has been rebuilt once (He didn't use a restrictor...
) but after the rebuild and restrictor, it has been just fine.
My original Ebay tube & fin style intercooler held up great for over 5 years, and had very minimal pressure drop,( ~ half a PSI). It DID start to heat soak above 280 horsepower, and eventually supported 307 horsepower before I upgraded. Never any leaks or other problems before that.
My new bar & plate intercooler has made a HUGE improvement in IAT temps, very low pressure drop (~.3 PSI) and although I havent been to the dyno with it installed yet, I know I am making more power than before with it.
Another buddy has an OBX header on his Cobalt and it has worked fine, although the joint did leak after a while before we upgraded the bolts and springs at the joint.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
I have had one of the stainless ld9 headers on my swapped 99 for 3-4 years with out really a problem. Though I did have to get new springs for the doughnut flange as the ones it came with were junk. Soon as they got hot, the went soft and leaked like a mofo. The only other bad thing was about a year ago I got a exhaust leak, that I assumed was the doughnut flange leaking. How ever it wasn't the case, one of the bottom most pipes cracked on the weld at the collector.
I do want to say though I don't thing it was the header the reason it cracked. I beat the piss out of the car, spun several sets of tires off. To where the rear tranny mount was shot, the front was broke, then the exhaust had no hangers as well really. The exhaust is 2.5 pressure bent steel pipe, 2 1/2 glass pack for a res, into a magnaflow single in dual exist f-body muffler. Where the only hangers on the exhaust is one on each side of the pipes coming out of the muffler to the tips. The other stock hangers were cut off.
Then as far as the hids, a buddy likes to ebay shop. Where I am not sure which ones he likes to buy, but he has had 3 sets in the past 2 years. He got one set new for his 98 eclipse, in which one bulb burnt out. They sent another one and they were fine after that and still are in the car (2 1/2 years if I recall). He installed a set in his 00 civic si and broke one of the bulbs, they were also fine after replacing the one. Then his srt4 had a set in it when he got it a few months ago, where they are doing fine. Neither of the sets flickered from what I had seen.
I bought a m2 4-1 header and midpipe for my 2.2ohv....its been on for almost a yr now with no problems..also runnin a 25 dollar ebay fart can that has been on for 3 yrs with no problems....
Got a inner fire engine parts timing set for about 120$ shipped to my door vs over 300$ at my local part stores the only problem was the crank sprocket didn't fit and I had to buy new camshaft bolts. The coyles kit included the timing chain oiler and new camshaft bolts for about 20$ more which is what the bolts cost me at the dealer. I also got new grease-able ball joints, inner and outer tie rods and sway bar end links which I have had no problems with. I buy OEM replacement part of eaby but I prefer to go with a well known company for my performance parts.
I get everything from ebay, but usually brand name stuff, umm did get hid's xentec sucked-burnt up in like a month then they wouldn't honor warrenty, but i got some no-name all silver cased ones and they are better than my hiddirect set, well as far as problems, my "brand name" set had a faulty wire that fried a bulb then a ballast but they replaced for free.
