I've been researching a 3400 swap for months now, and i came across this:
3500 3.5L V6 (LZ4)
Horsepower: 224 @ 5800 rpm
Torque: 220 @ 4000 rpm
Applications: Chevrolet Impala, Chevrolet Monte Carlo, Saturn Aura, Pontiac G6
Features: Variable Valve Timing
U Flow Cooling, E85 Capable
Configuration: Overhead Valves (2 valves per cylinder)
Displacement: 3510cc
my question is: anyone have info or knowledge on the transmission requirements for this engine? and would this swap require a custom sub frame like a 3800?
seems like a pretty fun build at the least... i'm just starting my Automotive Service Technition training so i'm not an expert but my prof has already said he'd help with a swap next semester so i'm getting rdy to start collecting parts
current set up is a 96 2200 lol
found a 2007 3500 LZ4 from a junk yard here for $800 Canadian with only 6k on it lol...
discuss
http://www.gminsidenews.com/index.php?page=Engine_Guide <--- scroll down
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_High_Value_engine#LZ4 <--- wiki info
as far as I know with the 3400...... you can put a 3500 top end on it
not positive though.... but if thats true theres a possibility
ignoring the transmission uncertanties its about a 50 HP upgrade from the 3400 and 20ish increase over a S/c Colbalt ... easy to get excited over this stuff but to me it seems worth the bit of extra work....?
makes me wonder why i've only seen 3100s 3400s and 3800s in 3rd gens ?
The guys with the 2nd gen cars that do anything with a 3500 use the one without VVT. I think the RPO code is LX9 (not sure on that one). Also to run even the non-vvt model without a factory PCM that came with the engine, you'll need to run an external crank trigger with it because new engines use a 52x reluctor wheel on the crank, ours (3100, 3400, 2200, stuff like that) use a 7x wheel. Old PCM's wont pick up the signal right.
60degreev6.com has this trigger and they're also going to be a million times more knowledgeable about how to set that engine up to run in an appreciative manner than we are going to be.
The 3500 swap goes in the same way as a 3400 swap does. The only thing I am uncertain about is the accessories. One problem you will run into is the stock rods in a 3500. Where the 3400 uses forged steel rods, the 3500 uses powdered rods. These rods can barely handle the stock 200hp/220tq, let alone with a power adder. One of the great things about the new 3500 motor though is the crank. There is debate whether or not the crank is forged, but it is deffinately heavier than a 3400 crank an looks identical (almost.) Although the 3500 has the same exact stroke as a 3400, the 3500 has larger rod journals which can be offset ground to accept the stock 3400 rods and increase the dissplacement to a 3600. Unfortunately, the 3900 uses different deck spacing than a standard 660. Nobody has tried swapping one of the 3900 based vvt motors yet so there is not much known. It is possible to deleted VVT though....... LX9 is the right code for the 3500 non vvt based on 3400.
Cardomain|
Myspace
For the increased displacement of the 3500, don't they have an offset bore as well? Which is why the 3500 crank can't be swapped into a 3400.
yes, the vvt version is base off of the 3900 engine. The non-vvt engine is based off of a 3400, the cranks CAN be swapped over but the new crank uses a 52x reluctor wheel where as the 3400 (before 2005) uses a 7x reluctor wheel so sequential injection can't be kept unless you go stand-alone.
Cardomain|
Myspace
Hey I am getting ready to swap my 99 cavalier 2.2 with the 3400 engine any available info would be great i.e. wiring diagrams engine mount info etc thanks - jon claseisgod@hotmail.com
M I N I O N - Sinbird wrote:yes, the vvt version is base off of the 3900 engine. The non-vvt engine is based off of a 3400, the cranks CAN be swapped over but the new crank uses a 52x reluctor wheel where as the 3400 (before 2005) uses a 7x reluctor wheel so sequential injection can't be kept unless you go stand-alone.
I guess it wouldnt be so much of a problem if you have some sort of press so you can change that reluctor ring huh?
I know the engine wont run with the 52x wheel. And if you're going with MS-II or an OBD-I setup it's easy enough to get the external crank trigger from 60degreev6. Apparently it works pretty good.
so just to clarify...if i decided to run the LX9 3500 which is not based on the 3900 but rather the 3400...
what reluctor wheel would i be dealing with? the 52X or a 7x?
and if it is the 52X... the external crank trigger from 60degreev6 is all u need to make it work? or would i need a 7x reluctor wheel and the external crank?
(can u tell i dont know what these damn things do???...but thats ok..only 3 weeks into my AST course
)
i'm setting up for a January/February swap so i'm just looking to start collecting parts. and i plan on keeping all u v6 cavy guys updated with my progress
note: new soup can and eibach pro kit...going on next week
yeah i would be all over that but i am finding it rather difficult to track down....
i appreciate it thanks...
The 7x wheel on the crank pulley is used for ignition timing. You can go without the 52x wheel all together by converting to batch fire and ditching sequential injection with an OBD1 ECU.
Cardomain|
Myspace
the question is...how does that affect overall performance?
M I N I O N - Sinbird wrote:The 7x wheel on the crank pulley is used for ignition timing. You can go without the 52x wheel all together by converting to batch fire and ditching sequential injection with an OBD1 ECU.
Yeah.... you can do that, but you still need to have a 7x wheel that the 3500 does not have. Thus the external crank trigger. The OBD-I ECU is not going to read a proper signal off of the 52x wheel.
Nick - running MPFI rather than SFI wont really give you a difference in performance. Once you push hard enough on an SFI engine (i think 3000rpm and up) it'll just be running the same as an MPFI setup would too. SFI will get you a little better throttle response on the low end. Best bet on this is to get an MPFI harness from an old 3.1 in a junk yard or maybe someone online is selling one as well. Thing you need to look out for is injectors. When you run an OBD-I ECU, and you try to run the new Multitec-2 injectors, the 2 dont disagree and it'll run not so well. You're gonna have to look and see if anyone has a good tuning file for that sort of application. Or, you'll have to do something like run the 3.1 injectors, which on the 3400 will hit 100% duty cycle before hitting redline, I'd imagine that on the 3500 you're gonna start looking at that at around 4000rpm or so. Personally I'd say that any electronics setup will be better than the OBD-I setup if you cannot find a tune specifically for the 3500. I'd be leaning more toward looking at a standalone unit here.
In my case I can run either batch fire (all 6 injectors at the same time) or bank fire (3 at a time) depending on what I select. I have mine set to bach fire. MPG is pretty good. I got over 22mpg on my last tank of gas, which involved a large ammount of time at WOT, including passes down the track. In normal driving like a regular person, I'd have probably been closer to the 30 mark. As for performance.... heh, lets just say that unless you set it up totally wrong and it's running really bad you're gonna feel more performance than the engine feels like with the car it came in. Dyno time is going to be where the overall performance is tweaked to the max.