I'm finally getting a chance to work on my 86. Does anyone know the exact spot to drain the antifreeze from a 2.0 OHV. I think it is in the front of the block right above the starter. However, it appears to be a TORX. I tried a 40 and it seems too small and a 45 is too big. Is there another spot that i've overlooked? Or, is there some other tool that I need to use to take out the plug?
-Tom
their should be a drain on the rad itself. check at the bottom on the ends. if not, just drop the bottom rad hose off. ive done that many times.
Sharkey, It's a 2.0 OHV. I did drain all of the coolant via the radiator petcock. I have the head off, both radiator hoses off, both heater hoses off, and the water pump off. There is still some antifreeze visible in the motor and cavity for the water pump. I would like to drain all of it.
-Tom
ok i wasnt sure exactly what you were doing, i thought mabey just changing the coolant.
Tom- I'll get the factory manual out tonight and see if there's a special tool or something to remove the block drain plug. I love those special "J-6059" tools you need to have.
I've never removed mine, I just flush it and drain it via the radiator, but you need to drain the block for this, otherwise you'll have a huge mess on your hands when you pop that head off.
I'll post up tonight.
Daryl - You can drop the level enough to remove the head by draining via the radiator. However, the level was right below the head in the block. When I pulled the water pump, a lot more drained out. Now I still have same fluid in the water pump cavity. That's why I would like to drain it completely.
Also, did you ever change the water pump? If so, did you use any sealant on the water pump bolt threads?
Thanks
-Tom
PS If anyone knows a site that I can host pics for free, then I can post a whole bunch with the top of the motor disassembled.
www.photobucket.com
www.imageshack.us
Sorry.....
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Reason: Free 84 Cavi Drop Top!
Tom I put a new water pump on my 85 2.0.Yes I did use Permatex high temperature thread sealant.U can buy this at napa or auto zone or advance.Mines in a 1.69 fl oz tube,the are smaller tubes of the same.I just dabbed some on the thread installed and torqued to spec.I did this last 04 in the spring.Fyi daryl ask the same ? and I told him to use this as well.And so did I when I did all my cooling stuff,and I did it all hoses,therm,sensors both of them etc.
Ron - Did you drain your coolant from the block when you did the water pump? If so, how?
-Tom
Nope just drained it straight out of the drain valve on the radiator itself.When I pulled the water pump off there was little to none of the antifreeze coming out at all.The only thing was just the normal residue from the waterpump area,no runs or anything.But I did drain it and left it open for a day,bc I was replacing the therm gasket and so forth,and once I pulled the pump it was as dry as it could ever be,minus using a rag to clear the mounting area.I think removing the block plug may not b necess.It's totally ur call on the block plug.Ok and that's about it.I did use some permatex the RIGHT STUFF gasket stuff in addition to the gasket to ensure a no leak problem.The stuff cost 12.00 anywhere in a can and is the BEST stuff around and cures quick.I highly recom it.
Hi I am new to the forum but have been a long time fan of the j body cars. I am working on restoring a 1986 four door cavalier. I am looking for some replacement rocker panels that go along the bottom of the car below the doors. I also have a question for ron where did you get those sensatrack shocks and new brake lines on the rear. Love the car by the way. Was there a certain process that you used to sand and coat the parts. I know you have to sand off the surface rust and rust deposits, but how many coats of rustoleum primer and flat black did you apply for that plain finish. Thanks.
Ok edward here's my site for my car pics and the whole story.
http://cardomain.com/ride/647974 As for the preparation for the rear end stuff,here it is I removed the wheels ,shocks etc.I used my sandblaster to remove the heavy crap rust and so forth.Once complete I used water and some sand paper and also some aircraft remover aerosol paint stripper to get rid of and heavy rust and trash.Use some protective gloves with the stripper it's deadly on the hands.Once clean I used some of the primer made by , walmart brand paint 77cents stuff ,then used kyrlon semi-flat black paint to it use light coats over time.I prolly put on 3-4 coats to even coat it.I used 3m tape auto masking tape,does not remove paint and put on anything not to b painted.U can buy at auto zone or advance.I used mar-hyde rubberized under coating in the fender welds and permatex ultra black silicone in the fender weld seams.The undercoating is at walmart or advance the silicone is also advance.As for the shocks and mounts advance auto sells both and u can do a search there for ur application.I hope this elaborate enuff .I can't remember the cost of the shocks or mts but cheap.Any more ? just ask.
I forgot to say I just sanded the original brake lines and no paint on them.I wanted to keep them stainless.I had no issues with them so I am not replacing them as of yet.
Any idea where I could pick up a new set of brake lines. Mine are the originals from 1986 and are pretty rusted out. Probably best if their just replaced.
U probably can buy new brake lines from advance auto or auto zone or even napa.U may have to measure ur lines u want to replace and note if it's like a 45* or 90 * bends and so forth.I am not sure these items are IN stock items but all these stores do show available since its just stainless lines.So u could pull them and go from what is provided online at those above sites and see if ur lines match what is offered advance has a BUNCH and says what degree turns and length.I know this should help.I have looked a while back and they are avail.Alrighty.
Rear brake line specs, I had posted this on V6Z24 in the past:
I had to replace the rear right hard brake line. It seemed to be harder then it should have to get a replacement line. So I will give the details here so everyone can benefit from what I learned.
Line size: 3/16"
End Flair type: bubble (iso)
Fitting type: metric
The length of the rear hard lines is 27 1/4". I bought off the shelf 30" lines and they worked fine.
If someone has an extra set of gas and brake lines we should send them to one of the classic line copanies so they can make Stainless Steel copies. This will make replacing these in the future much easier.
-Tom
Hey Tom-
Sorry I left this post hanging! I'm actually in the middle of moving at the end of the month and a job transfer. I have all my manuals packed up so I apologize.
Hope you're making progress on your Cav!
Thanks, I have been. Very slowly though. With 4 kids, work, and it being winter, I have been moving at a snails pace.
Anyway, I have replaced both motor mounts, both tranny mounts, the water pump, radiator hoses, heater hoses, had the head rebuilt (and bolted the water neck, egr, and new temp sensors back onto the head).
I need to bolt the inatke onto the head, land the head, adjust the valves & time the car (something I'm dreading because I have no experience with it), and install the accessories and throttle body.
I also sold my W41 SCX to a guy in Ohio over the holidays. Just too many cars to take care of properly.
Don't feel bad I drive a tractor trailer during the day and have longggg days so,working on the car during the wk is impossible.I do most of my stuff on the wkends and have no kids.Oh the fun with winter and it's retarded weather issues which slows things down with out a garage I need one.
