Although i have a ton of parts stacked up for hopefully my 2013 rebuild, cash is always the issue delaying me from getting to work...
I have a major car show coming up in a couple weeks, so i have a little cash to do some fall cleaning...
Issue 1: Exhaust leaks... My exhaust sounded great when i first installed it two years ago... over time, and countless road hazards that caused my cutout to scrape, my exhaust system now has a few issues. This go around i plan to remove the gutted cat, and install a 4" long by 3" diameter flex pipe post the Ron Header, using 3/4" thick stainless 3" flanges. The Y pipe for the cutout began the mandrel bent piping i purchased from Atomic (it goes 3"flange, 2.5" reducer, Y with 3" outlet for cutout, and 2.5" pipiing until the curve for the gas tank, in which there is a vband for the next section of piping). The beginning flange has warped and now has a nasty leak from it. This will also be replaced with a 3/4" 3" flange. The QTP cutout will also be replaced... this time i plan to take the cutout apart and red locktite every bolt. Every cutout i've had has had the bolts back out of them. Being that the cat is like 8-12" long, the cutout will be moving 4-8" closer to the front of the car. I'm hoping this will give me enough room to install the Flowmaster Hushpower 2 Resonator I've been sitting on for years.
Issue 2: I've been shredding belts ever since i installed an OBX smaller crank pully, and MD's light weight Alt pully. My belt size is two sizes smaller than the stock size. I have found my problem lies with the AC Compressor. The two bolts that attach it through the oil pan to the block, have backed out, causing the Compressor to slide a little bit, throwing the belt off center. I'll be replacing those bolts an installing a new belt.
Issue 3: Ghost Knock... After recently reading other people's issues running a pre1999 block in a 1999+ car and helicoiling the knock sensor port, I plan to find another place to mount the sensor... Any suggestions on where before i start hunting for a hole the 2000 knock sensor can attach to?
Hopefully after all this, i can finish up with the car's 6 month oil change. I've found i only put 2000-3000 miles on the car a year now...
Pics will come, as soon as i get the parts and start working
sounds good man. honestly for the knock sensor im saying just fill the SOB with weld then drill/tap for the proper size. i have absolutely no idea why the knock sensor hates the thread insert adapter. makes no sense to me.
mine seems to be doing better since the supercharger but then again i have not had it on the dyno to check. if the thing is pulling as much timing as it was n/a i would probably crap my pants if by adjusting the knock sensor again like we did when it was n/a gained as much power. LOL
I choose the technology built for land speed records... not the technology built to save on emissions and gas mileage.
I would love to see a datalog to see what you are referring to. I have found bone stock LD9's show ghost knock.
I have detuned the knock sensor some which really helped!
FU Tuning
its been some time since ive seen my tuner.. but he one time said it was pulling 6 degrees knock retard at idle...
-Z Yaaaa- wrote:sounds good man. honestly for the knock sensor im saying just fill the SOB with weld then drill/tap for the proper size. i have absolutely no idea why the knock sensor hates the thread insert adapter. makes no sense to me.
mine seems to be doing better since the supercharger but then again i have not had it on the dyno to check. if the thing is pulling as much timing as it was n/a i would probably crap my pants if by adjusting the knock sensor again like we did when it was n/a gained as much power. LOL
Brad we de-tuned your knock sensor, when we were doing the trans tune...
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
that's what he told me...
i do have an aluminum flywheel noise maker though... my motor has always had an audible "knock" since the first fire up (2.5 years ago, and about 30-35k Miles ago). I hear it mostly in the bell housing, but other people tell me they hear it in the head... Some of the Chevrolet technicians have told me that my .430 cams are too big for the HO lifters, and that i should switch to solid, though everyone here that has ran cams bigger than HO cams have all told me that they are noisy, and its "normal" for them to be.
where are you getting this "im getting knock from a flywheel" nonsense? its a flywheel. why would it create knock? its balanced.
I choose the technology built for land speed records... not the technology built to save on emissions and gas mileage.
Ive heard aluminum flywheels are noisy..... and with a stethoscope, i hear my knock loudest around the bell housing...
throw out bearings will make a noise, that can seem like a knock/chuckle noise.
FU Tuning
i installed a new one with the clutch when i first built the motor...
The spec clutch failed 25k later... and now i have a bully stage 4 clutch in, as well as brand new throw-out bearing... same noise...
this knock is at at idle... and moves faster with rev.... unfortunately, i don't live anywhere near anyone who has built an LD9 and knows what is normal and what is not normal and cell phone videos don't describe the sound well enough...
-Z Yaaaa- wrote:-MD- Enforcer wrote:-Z Yaaaa- wrote:sounds good man. honestly for the knock sensor im saying just fill the SOB with weld then drill/tap for the proper size. i have absolutely no idea why the knock sensor hates the thread insert adapter. makes no sense to me.
mine seems to be doing better since the supercharger but then again i have not had it on the dyno to check. if the thing is pulling as much timing as it was n/a i would probably crap my pants if by adjusting the knock sensor again like we did when it was n/a gained as much power. LOL
Brad we de-tuned your knock sensor, when we were doing the trans tune...
did we, now? interesting.... (lol yes i suck at tuning THAT bad.) 
Yeah I think we made it 25-30% less sensitive.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
updates?
I choose the technology built for land speed records... not the technology built to save on emissions and gas mileage.
my ron header is leaking between the pipes in the collector... the next time it is off the car (as you know how much of a pain in the ass it is to remove off the car), it will be repaired. otherwise, all of my exhaust leaks are gone... The cutout has been temperaraly removed... i plan to put it right before the LSJ muffler after the axle, and have an exit tube off the passenger side of the car.
the ac concern is fixed now
as for the ghost knock... i could not find any location on the block where i could screw the knock sensor in to... I need suggestions as to a possible relocation without using the helicoil, while still be able to detect knock...
