Didn't really know where to put this topic, so I put it in the performance one. I got a 2000o2 cav with 113k on it and it always ran regular oil as far as I know. But with what a guy at work was telling me at work synthetic is they way to go, only because the molecules stay the same hot or cold. Now my question is can I saith over from regular oil to synthetic oil with no problems?

yep... you can switch with no issues..

Is it worth the switch if you have already been running regular from the start.

Synthetic is a better oil all the way around. It can not hurt to switch. The only time I prefer conventional oil is on new engine break in. Since it normally has a much higher Zinc content.






PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Its well worth the switch. Being able to go 7500 miles with one oil change. I do a lot of driving between both jobs and my daughter. I need to change my oil every 3 months and some times I'm even over due. And if I do the changes my self I save a butt load of money in the end.

just be sure to match it with an extended life filter. (like purolator pure one, mobil 1, k&n, etc) the filter is just as important as the oil

When swapping from a regular oil to a synthetic with high mileage be prepared for oil leaks!

98grandamld9 wrote:When swapping from a regular oil to a synthetic with high mileage be prepared for oil leaks!

Thats kinda what I was thinking as well.

How does switching from one oil to another oil how will that start oil leaks?!

98grandamld9 wrote:When swapping from a regular oil to a synthetic with high mileage be prepared for oil leaks!

Hm, I never had an issue on my 2.2 OHV.

To the OP, synthetic is the way to go. Hell I use synthetic tranny fluid LOL.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
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2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
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1fine89 wrote:Is it worth the switch if you have already been running regular from the start.

Your car has had Mobil 1 5-30 since I put the engine in it.

98grandamld9 wrote:When swapping from a regular oil to a synthetic with high mileage be prepared for oil leaks!

This only happens if there are actual leaks...

synthetic oil is thinner and it finds leaks easier than conventional oil. the solution is to step up to 10 w 30 or even 10 w 40

the synthetic oil has better "sludge" cleaning additives that will expose any small leaks that are already present. so i would say if u don't use or leak any oil then you should be fine, and i agree with mystic, use a higher viscosity

synthetic is great except for high-mileage engines that didn't get the oil changed enough. At Toyota (where I used to work) they were cautious about folks changing if they had high miles. They would warn folks that the better cleaning of the synthetics would sometime dislodge sludge enough to cause blockages. One of the cars they would'nt do it for (IIRC) was the 90's era 4 cylinder that they had problems with sludge in the first place.
dennis

I never had any problems with leaks. Rolled over 275xxx a few months ago, and only ran synthetic for the last 30000 or so. With conventional oil, the actual molecules aren't uniform, so as the oil flows through the engine, any small leaks become blocked off when a molecule bigger than the hole gets lodged in it. Since synthetic is uniform, it can't fill in these holes very effectively, causing the leaks to appear.

My OHV has 113k on it and its not burning oil nor is it leaking oil. And I do change the oil when I need to. And only run 93 octane.

if your doin it for extended range don't waste your money

if you take your car to a dealer and you a 4 litre system and your down 1 litre after 3000 miles thats considered a normal consumption for your milage what happens if you go future on the oil and say don't check it (don't give me a story oh i always check it i'm just saying) well if your doubling your range you will be down 2 liters if it goes unchecked NOT GOOD

you know why GM and many manufacturers created OLM oil life monitor. because the engines now can run a long time and this is there way of making them NOT. my bother had a grand prix that followed OLM and the rockers were black as fawk my car they look metal colour the longer oil sits in there the dirt deposits build up and block off ports and tighen things up

i live in canada i change my oil in my 3800 cav every 3000km thats about 2 times a year

THIS IS MY RANT
THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTION FOR FRESH OIL
your car can't move without it



JBO since July 30, 2001

Ryan Levesque wrote:My OHV has 113k on it and its not burning oil nor is it leaking oil. And I do change the oil when I need to. And only run 93 octane.

you like wasting money on gas?

Unless you are running high compression (due to pistons or forced induction), there is no useful purpose to 93 octane. Its not any cleaner, and it doesn't last any longer, and it is not any more fuel efficient. The higher octane rating is a rating of a fuel's resistance to burn. On a high Compression engine, you don't want the fuel to detonate early, you can get fuel "pings/knocks" or even worse damage.

i had the timming changed for 93, thats all. no hp tune, i want to though

how do you change the timing to 93... please enlighten me... the ignition timing is controlled by the PCM, requiring HP Tuners or a stand alone to adjust this. You can't adjust your cam/crank timing to the point where you need to run higher octane fuel...

definitely not trying to be a dick here... but i'd like to know what you did

I got a buddy that works with tuners and he helped me out a little for free.

so he did HP tune your computer... odd.. the pcm licensing credits alone costs 150 bucks... pretty nice guy to pay that for you...

there is no other way of adjusting ignition timing except with HPTuners or a standalone pcm.

There is the possibility that the guy opted to pay the 6 credits to be able to tune any 2000 LN2 j body.

Agree with the extended range....syythetic oil is a waste unless you either race it hard, or don't plan to change it as often.

All but my wife's car get changed twice a year, with synthetic oil and a good filter.


No problems at all.


http://www.autotalk.com/pictures/data/1536/medium/2005_Chevrolet_Cavalier_Xtreme_002_autotalk_com_.jpg

colt45 wrote:There is the possibility that the guy opted to pay the 6 credits to be able to tune any 2000 LN2 j body.

this is a possibility ... but from his other posts.. i doubt this...