i tried searching but cant find it could someone help
So within 6 minutes of posting that you need help.. you actually used the search button and found it...
Imagine that...
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Still not low enough for a signature.
if you need anything else just go ahead and ask, its no big deal man its not like this place is hopping with business like 1999. but yes the search can definitely be a friendly tool so just hit it up first next time.
i used the search first but didnt find it and after i posted i thought maybe add the word stickey and it came up ya jerk why do some of you half to be like that Twenty4z
and thanks Z Yaaaa
i race a imca sport compact dirt track car and spun the number 3 bearing after going from 14th to 2nd in 5 laps around a 1/2 mile track my car is a 99 sunfire gt i have a bare block so wanted the directions and pics off that stickey so i can swap it over and maybe save future headaches
oh it will most definitely help out.
hey z will it allow any more power to come out since it gets rid of all the crap on the bottom end
well thats the theory.... ill tell you one thing, you dont see any N/A LD9's putting down a bunch of power with the stock setup thats for sure.
ur ditching 12 pounds off the rotational @!#$ and in any event dropping WEIGHT off the car is going to make it faster, period.
I'd like to add, I can feel a big difference with the 2.3 pump. I've noticed when I free rev it at someone, seems like it don't want to quit spining at whatever rpm. One of the best mods for an LD9 block.
YEA MY CAR IS 2400 ON THE NUTS WE HAVE SCALES FOR MY BROTHERS CAR HE RACES A IMCA MODIFIED
The 2.3L oil pump swap should be done first and foremost as a safety net, like forged rods and pistons. The whole point of the swap is to provide sufficient lubrication at higher RPMs The 2.4L pump spins at twice the crank speed, and because of that, the pump cavitates rather easily as RPMs increase I would not go into this expecting huge returns in horsepower due to lost reciprocating weight, which honestly isn't that much. A large portion of the weight is just dead weight from the casing itself (non-reciprocating), and I highly doubt the balance shafts have enough moment of inertia to make a huge impact.
If anyone has dyno results of before and after a 2.3L pump swap, I'd love to be proven wrong. I personally didn't really notice anything after I did the 2.3L swap.
I have no signiture
I had just heard that it adds power didnt think it would just really want a reliable pump because i turn the motor 6000rpm
I'm in need of the pump-to-block bolts, my GM dealers around all say they can't get them through vintage parts. Brad, any chance you know someone that knows someone, that gave a blowy to someone to get them lol.
I spin my stock, 184,000 mile ld9 to 6500 rpm daily for the last 6 years, to all there own
HORNET12 wrote:I had just heard that it adds power didnt think it would just really want a reliable pump because i turn the motor 6000rpm
it doesnt nessesarily 'add' power... it basically frees up power that was already there... choked off from the useless NV/H tree hugging balance shafts.
thrice... best bet is just to use some different bolts off the motor. iirc the intake manifold bolts are close... and if not then you can easily just go to the local hardware store and locate something that will work.
when i did my 2.3 pump for the pump to block bolts i used a spare set of lower engine mount bracket bolts(bracket the dogbone bolts to) i had sitting in a bolt drawer in my garage. at least thats what i think they were. hardware store is your best bet to match something up though, unless you have a whole engine in parts just sitting in your garage like i do lol.
only physical change in engine performance that i really felt whan i did this was that it rev'd up a tad faster. balance shafts ftl.
Not trying change subject but if you follow through with the oil pump swap look into throwing you a set of HO cams, towers, lifters, and valve springs in the motor. And tune it a bit.
Good luck!
i would do the ho cam swap but are tech guys have gotten smart enuf that they have all the casting numbers and have checked one car this year but he has a beretta gtz with the 2.3 ho so he is hard to catch
crazy i run my car flat footed for 6 lap heat and 12 lap feature not run it up to 6500 and let off and its around a pretty rough dirt track not the street here is a link to a video from inside my car i didnt have all my attachments for the gopro but u will get the drift not trying to be a jerk just saying this car is abused more then most
https://www.facebook.com/#!/video/video.php?v=2205906268745
I could just see it, you putting HO cams in and dominating the race track. lol I think the 95 Quad 4 has the same cast numbers as the 2.4 cams but theres not much to be gained. But if the motor was in pieces I could see throwing the 95 cams in. No modification necessary.
EVERY LITTLE BIT HELPS EVEN IF ITS 10HP OR LESS
Remember that the 2.3L pump forte is for high RPM lubrication (above 6500). Don't expect it to prevent you from getting a 3rd bearing failure.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
HORNET12 wrote:i would do the ho cam swap but are tech guys have gotten smart enuf that they have all the casting numbers and have checked one car this year but he has a beretta gtz with the 2.3 ho so he is hard to catch
If they are checking cams, then I don't know how you would pass with the 2.3L pump. It looks nothing like the balance shaft/pump assembly from the 2.4L.
I have no signiture
i talked to them about it already and they agree it wouldnt be a performance advantage just precaution
