I need some help on reaching "200HP" or more all motor..i have a 2001 Z24 5speed...for now i have 4-2-1 headers,cold air intake,stage 2 clutch exedy,full exhaust,so what else is there...so my goal is 200Hp or more.....
Port-n-polished head.
Over bore high comp. pistons.
Oversized Valves.
w41 or HO cams.
HPTuners to tune the car.
Rev the piss out of it.
2.3 oil pump swap...for less rotational mass if nothing else. The added oil pressure wouldn't hurt also.
Lightweight flywheel and upgraded clutch.
that's enough for now.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
so with the upgrades i have now is not even close to my goal??
nope... there are maybe 3 members on this site right now that have accomplished 200+ whp all motor, and have dumped at least 5 grand in their motors.
also we only have one "header" =)
as you sit now, you probably are between 140 - 150 WHP, without internals and cams, the motor won't see significant hp gains
Honestly I bet less than 140whp.
Probably also need:
Larger Throttle Body.
Lightweight or under driven pulleys.
Also, possibly a LSD.
I know I forgot some.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
All of the forementioned mods will be necessary and an HO intake manifold combined with the larger TB would also help but as you sit right now no you aren't even close. You really need to bump up compression and do head and cam work on these engines to be able to make any truly significant n/a gains.
President/Founder - 607 Motorsports
all worth it though when you can say you got there without the use of boost.
or not even close to worth it.
really depends on how ya look at it.
-MD- Enforcer wrote:Honestly I bet less than 140whp.
Probably also need:
Larger Throttle Body.
Lightweight or under driven pulleys.
Also, possibly a LSD.
I know I forgot some.
Why do you suggest an LSD for a HP goal?
blucavvy wrote:all worth it though when you can say you got there without the use of boost.
or not even close to worth it.
really depends on how ya look at it.
And who you ask
Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier
* More to come *
^^^ because even at stock HP the tires get melted.
people are gonna castrate me but... honestly... this is ALL you need to do 200whp. (motor wise, obviously you'll need the bolt ons and tuning as well)
this can be done with junkyard parts bought for very cheap, you can port the head urself. you could even do this with stock pistons and stock rods. a bump in compression is definitely necessary but you can do so with the aforementioned mods.
mildly ported head that has been decked .020 or .030 with stock ho springs and retainers. stock 2.4 valves, locks, rotators and valve seals. - $100 in bits and materials for port job, $100 for machine shop to clean and deck, $50 for springs and retainers from junk yard.
stock ho cams and stock 35mm lifters (2.3 int. and ext. towers) - $150 in junk yard
cometic .030 MLS head gasket - $120
2.3 oil pump swap - $75 in junk yard for parts, $50 for crank gear, $20 in plugs/drill bits and otherwise to do oil pump swap your self.
2.3 intake manifold port matched to 2.4 head with 2.3 56mm tb, $50-75 in junkyard, port match your self.
deleted AC, EGR, EVAP, and power steering - free
dc sports or bills/stans or ron siebenick header and 3" exhaust with a straight through design muffler, no resonator, no cat. $400-600 for header, $100 for piping for exhaust, weld and make your self, $50 for muffler.
prothane engine/trans mounts - $65
aasco or spec aluminum flywheel with a stock clutch - $500
hp tuned by a professional - depends if you can find someone local for cheap, i recommend a dyno shop so around $400
so... roughly $2400 and you can run mid 13's without any help from anything but ur right foot and right shifting arm. it can do it on street tires if you have a good suspension you can set up for drag. if not, slicks work.
yes, its worth it.
If it takes forever.... I will die trying. Underdog Racing
"dc sports or bills/stans or ron siebenick "
Stans header only if you can find it cheap used. I would never shell out full price for one again. Personally I would go the Ron S. route.
right, i forget though clyde... what happened with urs?
If it takes forever.... I will die trying. Underdog Racing
Its on my totaled 02 Z. Would have used a stock manifold instead, but I didnt feel like digging out all my stock parts when i put the header back on.
no i mean what happened to make u hate the thing...
If it takes forever.... I will die trying. Underdog Racing
Down pipe was a pain in the ass to install. The flex didnt last long before falling apart. The ball flanges suck to seal and keep sealed. the ceramic coating flaked off in quite a few places shortly after installation. Primary tubes are small compared to other headers I have had or had my hands on. The quality is deffinately not there for the cost. Honestly I would use a cheap OBX knock off before buying another Stans header. If I go NA whenever I get around to building an engine (no car for one anymore) I will be getting one of Rons headers.
PITA to install, well... thats normal with a good header. flex joints do fail, ball flanges have always sucked. ceramic coating flaking off... well that IS bad LOL
primary tubes too small, well... tell them to make em bigger. honestly man, ive seen one in person, it was a damn nice header. ive owned rk sport, and a dc sports... i honestly think its just as nice as either of those. maybe you got one they made final hour on friday? hahahaha
If it takes forever.... I will die trying. Underdog Racing
I made 144hp at the wheels a few years ago on my 01 5 speed Z with the following mods:
Pacesetter header and full 2 1/4 exhaust
HO manifold with LD9 TB and modified vibrant intake (I now know that combo probably did more harm then good)
MD light weight crank pulley
Spec stage 2 clutch
motor mounts
I would say your probably in the 140-150 range, but your about at the limit before internal mods, like others have said.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
Everyone pretty much has got it done. So before and internal mods....simple bolt ons would help you reach that goal with a good tune. But dont use an LD9 TB on a H.O. Intake manifold. Quad4forums.com has a group buy for an adapter to utilize a 65mm TB on the H.O. intake manifold.
GMR has got nothing on this
I made 151whp on secret cams, 57mm TB, Pacesetter header with 2.5 inch exhaust, AEM intake, ebay underdrive pulley, Fidanza flywheel. That was on factory tuning. I never got to see what it would have made with my tuning. I would guess 160whp.
Head work and a bump in compression and some good tuning I think will get you there on a bone stock block.
FU Tuning
I dynoed 137fwhp at the 09 Bash with just an intake and a catback, so I'd say 140-145 would be a good estimate for what you have now.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
and with these numbers...after all that work and money invested...what were the final reduced E/T's people were running?
my 04 Cav is a great dd, fun to drive, awesome mileage with a bit of style, and a fun 'tuner' car to learn abit about modding..but these without boost are no power house to 'invest' in...
Ive seen some sick rides on here, but i wouldnt invest much unless you can get quality parts at cost and do your own work...just not worth the investment when you can buy an LT1 or LS1 and for a few grand make it quick. My 94Z28 with about $3k in engine upgrades (full internals) was pushing over 400rwhp and would eat lightly modded C5's and T/T 4 bangers pretty easily. never got it to the track...within 2500miles of the break in, some jackass ran a light and i t-boned him at 60mph lol...
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
see thats the problem... EVERYBODY buys an lt1 or ls1 and makes them quick.
id rather be in the crowd that had to actually work for something.
If it takes forever.... I will die trying. Underdog Racing
z yaaaa wrote:see thats the problem... EVERYBODY buys an lt1 or ls1 and makes them quick.
id rather be in the crowd that had to actually work for something.
There's a reason they do that. They come in cars that drive the correct set of wheels.
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