so yesterday i blew my engine. i did hear a tick that didnt seem like the normal tick from an ecotec. turned off my car and went to work. after work started it up drove a bit( forgot about the tick) and tick tick click clank bing bang boom. yeah there goes a piston through my oil pan. oil every where pieces behind the car in the road. called AAA and had them tow it to a known friend garage.......................so now my question is were can i get a low mileage engine 2.2 eco around 500-1200 bucks. thanks
You can get them cheaper..
Drew just picked one up with the tranny, ecu, and harness for 250
haha do the sensible thing and put in the L67!
Whats up people?
Junkyard I paid 400 for a long block with 50k on it.
can some one move this to the right forum if this is not performance. thanks
how many miles and how hard did you run it to make it go boom ?
just put 80,000 miles........ kinda hard, not the granny driving but also not the oh @!#$ im late driving. dont know if i really should have put 5w30 with that many miles. that could be why....should have put 10w 30
I have 117,000 miles on mine and used mobil 1 fs in it
wow only 80k on it? i have about 160k on mine and i run it hard all the time and i use 5w-30. well pensoil platnum, the full synthetic stuff but thats only been for the last 10k or so. i used 10w-30 from when i got it at 98k to about 150k. do you know if it was your timing chain that skipped and caused your engine to blow or do u not know?
i used royal purple for 10,000 miles then went to high mileage mobil
i have no idea what it was or why it happened but now i was quoted at 2k with a one yr warranty. i would do it my self but i need this as a daily and im not about to wait a month for everything to get back to the way it should be. ill keep ya posted and see what engine i get....mileage wise, i know ill get an eco lol
well i hope you can find one cheap and good running.
also i dont no if it matters too much or if its easy to change but cavaliers had the power strearing pump on the end of the intake cam and the newer ones on cobalts and others have an electrical power stearing pump so make sure you get the right one.
some one correct me if im wrong which i no ppl will
oh and i used castrol gtx for the oil. but again i doubt that was the problem
A month???
I pop these things out in a weekend.
I USED CASTROL GTX IN MY OLD CUTTY BLEW THREE BUICK ENGINES NOW I NEVER USE CHEAP OIL
Castrol does not make a true synthetic
Pennsoil does not make a true synthetic
both are made from oil stocks
both will catch on fire before Mobil 1
Royal Purple is on par with mobil 1 but more expensive and i blew up a lifter on royal purple....
Mobil 1 is the superior choice for oil...
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A ticking noise is never a normal noise... and this should be in maintanance...
Speedline02 (GME Chat!!) wrote:Castrol does not make a true synthetic
Pennsoil does not make a true synthetic
both are made from oil stocks
both will catch on fire before Mobil 1
Royal Purple is on par with mobil 1 but more expensive and i blew up a lifter on royal purple....
Mobil 1 is the superior choice for oil...
-------------------------
A ticking noise is never a normal noise... and this should be in maintanance...
It's clear you don't know anything about oil, really. Do you even understand the whole "True synthetic" argument? Or is it just something you heard and you are vomiting it back? For those who are confused this is what is going on. A while back, Exxon Mobil was making Mobil 1 out of what is called group IV, PAO, or poly-alpha olefin, which is created in labs. At the time, Chevron invented a process called hydro-cracking, which results in what is petroleum based oil, but refined to such a high degree that it bears no resemblance to the crude it is made from. This hydro-cracked oil is called Group III. Now, Grp III is much cheaper than Grp IV, and Castrol started using it and marketing it as Synthetic. Now BP (Castrol) is selling a synthetic oil for less than Mobil 1, and Exxon was understandably angry, and tried to get it banned under the pretenses that the Castrol "Synthetic" was in fact a lie. Now, take it for what you will, here are some facts. First of all, Mobil 1 is primarily Group III, with I belive about 10% PAO content. Oils like Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Syntec/Edge are 100% Group III. Does this make them inferior? No, for a couple reasons.
First of all, Group IV is inherently, in purest form, not a good lubricant. what makes it suitable is lots of additives, such as ZDDP (Zinc, phosphorous) , Molybdenum, Sulfur, Calcium, Sodium, Magnesium. On the other hand, Group III is much better in pure base stock form, in terms of lubricity. It still has those additives, but they aren't it's bread and butter, the reason that it is good. Now, surprisingly, Group II/II+ (ie Dino, or conventional) oil, is actually the best of the three in terms of lubricity. It is just the nature of the molecules and the substance.
"catches on fire sooner" - This is such a hilarious falsehood it bears explanation. What you are referring to is Flashpoint. In reality, none of these oils will ever "Catch on fire" in the engine. And these numbers, even with extremely high amounts of fuel dilution, are still well above 300 degrees fahrenhiet. Virgin, they are usually above 400.
Here is a chart I put together from UOA (used oil analysis) on Bobistheoilguy.com, that shows wear metals for different oils. Mobil 1 clearly loses here. Also, Mobil 1 originally failed the API Sequence IVA wear test,
Even Ashland, the makers of Valvoline, knew it and advertised it. Today, Mobil 1 is not a subpar lubricant, but it is NOT the best. There are better options out there. Personally, I like Pennzoil Platinum, and Valvoline Synpower. Now if anyone has any informed arguments besides "Well, Mobil 1 is the best because it has 1 in the name...." I would love to hear it.
Amsoil ,yea for the price it should make a engine last forever lol.
Brandon Payne wrote:well i hope you can find one cheap and good running.
also i dont no if it matters too much or if its easy to change but cavaliers had the power strearing pump on the end of the intake cam and the newer ones on cobalts and others have an electrical power stearing pump so make sure you get the right one.
some one correct me if im wrong which i no ppl will
the later ecotecs (2006+) have a different number of teeth on the trigger ring. the pcm in the jbody cannot run those engines. it wants a 6+1 pattern, and the newer ecotecs have a 60-2 pattern.
most of the head castings have the provision for the power steering pump, the cobalts just have a block off plate, so that problem can be solved by simply removing the block off (2 bolts) and putting the pump in its place.
You're half right about the cobalt power steering... it does NOT have a pump. There is an electric motor built into the steering column that senses which direction you're turning and helps you turn in the same direction.. sort of like if someone were to grab the steering wheel and help you turn it.
there is no pump, and there are no hydraulics.. the cobalt powersteering is just electric.
on a hot plate, i watched pennzoil catch fire while the mobil 1 was still just sitting there... mobil 1 has the higher flash point...
i dunno though... i only got mobil certified a few years ago when i worked at a quick lube...
Speedline02 (GME Chat!!) wrote:on a hot plate, i watched pennzoil catch fire while the mobil 1 was still just sitting there... mobil 1 has the higher flash point...
i dunno though... i only got mobil certified a few years ago when i worked at a quick lube...
You think working at a quick lube makes you certified for ANYTHING? I hate quickie lubes, I've had nothing but scamming, dishonest, lying "technicians" at every single one I've ever gone to. Ever. I've had this happen to me, and I have heard others say the same thing- I did some work on my car, put new air filter, new brake pads on it. About a month later it needed an oil change and I didn't have the time so I took it to a jiffy lube. They brought me my brand new air filter, and told me it was dirty and needed replaced, and that my brake pads were worn out and needed replaced. I laughed in his face, told him that I had just replaced him. He tried to sell me over $150 in unecessary parts and labor. They use impact wrenches on the oil pan plug, they almost always use FRAM oil filters, and it's not unheard of for them to charge and then not do the work. My friend knows a woman who went to JL for 3 years in a row, they NEVER changed the oil filter. Don't think that working at a quick lube makes you qualified for anything. My 90 year old grandmother could be certified at jiffy lube and she doesn't know anything about cars beyond "turn the key and it goes". I would rather not have my oil changed than ever get it done at a quickie lube, and I am NOT the only person who feels that way.
