well since todd miller no longer has the ability to get this done and not many were made to buy and the ones that ARE out there nobody is willing to sell...

i really would like to find a place that can do all of the modifications necessary to run a HO 2.3 intake cam in an LD9.

basically....

i need the CPS pad machined or welded onto the cam (dont even start with the oh it will run fine in batch fire mode, I dont care)

hex drive for the power steering to work properly pressed into the end of the cam (yes i know i could just run without PS but i dont want to.)

2.4 cam tower lifter bores honed or bored out to 35mm for use with the larger 2.3 lifters.

so, anyone know of a place that KNOWS HOW TO DO ALL OF THIS?



And I should've been drown in the rivers I've found in token lost...

wouldnt it just be cheaper to buy those LD9 cam blanks that some one posted on ebay and find someone to grind them into what ever profile you want?

i wouldnt worry too much about the PS, as you could always run the 2.3L one and belt it, cant you?


1997 Cavalier Z24
Bomz Short Ram Intake
Vibrant Cat-Back
KYB GR2 Struts
Goldline 1.75" Springs
RK Sport Upper Insert
RK Sport Lower Dogbone
Custom Tune by Shane @
innovativetuning@rogers.com

15.647 @ 88.02 MPH

^^ i could, but i dont want to. i want to use the stock power steering unit.

and those cam blanks are for a 2.3, not a 2.4 and do not have the CPS pad nor the PS hex drive.



And I should've been drown in the rivers I've found in token lost...

If you don't want to run in batch then wire in the MS sequencer to run fuel and swap in the cams and towers and PS pump from a 2.3l. That's the easiest way, other than that your gonna waste cash on massive machine work and not going to gain anything other than a stock look.


"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous

ding ding ding. i want the stock look! i want the stock everything except the puny cam profiles.

if wasting money is what it takes to do it the way i want, so be it.



And I should've been drown in the rivers I've found in token lost...

Get some one that can weld to Cast Iron. the "pad" is just a 1\2 inch piece of steel that can be welded on.

Ask marks (the guy that bought Brian's car) and see if he will sell is moded 91-94 LD2 cam. it has the CPS on it.

Chris






'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

ok, i understand what the piece is and what it does... but how do you know exactly where to weld it so the CPS works correctly? if i could get this information nailed down im faily confident i could handle the rest.

ive already located a machine shop willing to do the tower boring, and well... YOU told me once you could do the hex drive in the cam... so..

lol i guess add that to the list of things i want from you

specs on marks' intake cam?



And I should've been drown in the rivers I've found in token lost...

i want a ho cam



8 psi with m62 and IAT under 100

Stock 90-94 LD2

.375\200*

Chris




'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

eh? why would i bother with doing that cam then? its no different than a 95 intake. cept for it doesnt have the cps or hex like the 95 does.



And I should've been drown in the rivers I've found in token lost...

idk what the big deal with the cam pad is but you dont wanna hear it. if anything id ditch doing the HO cam and just call up a cam grinder and have them grind u a custom one so you dont have to dick around. if money is no issue for looking stock then id go custom instead of trying to hack up a cam to make it work. when i talked to todd about having the cam pad added to a cam he gave me the whole low down on how its not worth the time or effort with the precision it takes to justify even considering it let alone even the need for it. realistically the cams and crankshaft rotate along the same system and there is already a crank signal, with a cam sync or something to create a signal it should be spot on since the cams and crank really cant deviate from each other.

z yaaaa wrote:eh? why would i bother with doing that cam then? its no different than a 95 intake. cept for it doesnt have the cps or hex like the 95 does.

That cam made 422 hp on 15psi with a gt35r and 171 hp n/a. It also had more lift and duration than the secret intake cam and matches the specs of the secret exhaust cam. It will be up forsale soon, only because i have an HO cam to replace it. It only took me 30 mins to modify my HO cam in my dd. Its been working for 1000 miles. You only have to turn off one code for it. And it still looks stock. The car gets the same gas mileage and it actually ran pretty decent (below 3000rpms) on the stock tune. I am working on the tune right now but the wonderful weather in Ohio is holding that back.

Now for the turbo car i have a miller performance cam

If I remember correctly, there was someone running a GP on doing this to cams.....but it is long gone now.

Ill try to see if I can hunt down his profile.

^^^ your probably talkin about nukkin futts' 2.4 power steering bracket for use on the 2.3 intake cam tower.

and for everyone saying it doesnt matter and you can just turn off a code, fine then... sell me the cam you have and ill buy you a brand spanking new intake cam.

(if it doesnt matter)



And I should've been drown in the rivers I've found in token lost...

When I put my HO intake cam in...if it fits...Im going to use the cam sync and try to tuck it out of sight. Then it will appear stock and run stock. I think ive read enough to convert it to hex drive seems pretty easy and straight forward. this might be your best bet. Then you only need to get the tower bored out and clearanced for the cam from the machine shop.

^^^ yeah but theres also something about doing an oil passage mod in the tower as well IIRC.

the point isnt that you can make it work, the point is doing what is needed to do it the way stock was meant to run. like i said, i dont care if it will run a different way, thats not my style. it may not be the way most do things but its the way i do.



And I should've been drown in the rivers I've found in token lost...

habe you contacted any local machine shops about this??

damn man. i feel for you. i know what its like trying to get something done the way YOU want, especially when it isnt common and having trouble finding someone that will do it.
would you like me to ask MY machine shop guy if hed be willing to do it ?? ill explain the deal to him if you want and see if hed be willing to take it on ???

John Benham wrote:habe you contacted any local machine shops about this??

im sure most could handle the work... but see you need to know what to tell them to do first before they can actually do it.



And I should've been drown in the rivers I've found in token lost...

z yaaaa wrote:eh? why would i bother with doing that cam then? its no different than a 95 intake. cept for it doesnt have the cps or hex like the 95 does.

That statement would be like me saying "whats the big deal with a W41 cam, I have HO cams!"

The only difference is 6*


6 DEGREES


And that 6* on a Un-tuned Engine back in 1992 made 10 more Horse power.


The 95 cam, and Marks's cam.... Worlds apart.

Chris




'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

i didnt know what it was.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, January 13, 2009 5:23 PM


And I should've been drown in the rivers I've found in token lost...

z yaaaa wrote:eh? why would i bother with doing that cam then? its no different than a 95 intake. cept for it doesnt have the cps or hex like the 95 does.

The cam JR has in his Turbo motor has both the hex and the CPS pad, both done by Todd Miller...... its just a LO instead of a HO cam. Paired with a HO exhaust cam, it made plenty of power (JR posted the dyno numbers), more power at the wheels then a W41 (even with lower compression and smaller valves).

In all honesty, your being way to anal about this. Its going to cause more headaches then its worth. Odds are you will never get it perfect, and will end up deleting the code anyway. Leave the sensor in the hole, and no one will ever know there is no pad there anyway.




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

i'll know. and thats just not @!#$in good enough.



And I should've been drown in the rivers I've found in token lost...

ok i dont wanna be a dick but what is your reasoning for wanting that sensor? because it was built that way and u want to keep it? dont mod then, it wasnt built with HO cams. like brian said, ur being too anal about this and idk if anyone understands as to a realistic reason why. i dont even know if you know why. i just put W41 cams in my car and drove from just south of chicago all the way to carbondale where i go to school, over 4 hr drive and i was doin 70+ the whole time and i did it on half a tank. the car runs great without the sensor and even without power steering, even tho ive got the whole 2.3 setup to go on it but i didnt have time. but id think it through, ur gonna have the car tuned and batch fire works just fine.

you know... i knew this was going to end up being an 'i did it this way and its better' argument... thats why i immediately typed I DONT CARE....

ive gone over this all time and time again and really, there is no reason to argue about it. i mod my car for me and me alone, if i want to keep a stock sensor functioning, im going to and thats the bottom line.

if you dont have any useful information on doing what i asked than please keep your comments to yourself. i didnt ask to be 'taught' how to do things the way some do, i asked for information pertaining to doing something the way i feel is the right way of doing it.

now... scott (section8cav) is going to be talking to his machine shop about getting this done for me.

if you can simply measure out exactly where the pad is on say a stock ld9 cam and put it there on a 2.3 cam, it should work.



And I should've been drown in the rivers I've found in token lost...