i hear 10w 30 is better for cars than 5w 30, but im starting to think thats bull@!#$ after listening to my friend whos going to school for auto mechanics, plus i read it superstreet or something that using the wrong oil type could effect cold engine starts, which come to think about it, when my engine is cold and its cold outside my car doesnt really want to start at all

the oil lines in a 2.4 are so small. there like the bb gun barrel. 10w might be to thick and not flow right

well i have a 2.2 ecotec and it says 5w30 on the oil cap

no reason to change the oil weight you use, just use 5w30

i heard changing your oil with different types (IE 5w30, 10w30 etc) can hurt your engine and cause the oil to gum up



Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!

well

i really am going to use regular oil now..well 5w30 and use synthetic because this person is official a @!#$ moron for telling me that 10w30 is better for my motor, i hate that son of a bitch

I used to work at an oil change place and we used Mobil 10w30 in everything that came in, regardless of what the oil cap said, unless the owner requested a different weight or brand. We never had anyone come back and say thier wngine got damaged because we used the "wrong" grade of oil. Simple fact is 10w30 and 5w30 arent that much different. The 5w is a little thinner when cold, but both have the same charateristics when hot, hence the same 30 designation. You could even use 10w40 or 20w50 without any issues.

The major factor in deciding what oil grade to use is heat. What temperature is it where you will be driving your car?

5w30 is recomended for many cars as it is a good all around grade of oil for most vehicles operating in North America. It flows well when cold and takes higher temps fairly well. 5w30 also offers a little better fuel mileage than heavier grades due to less effort to turn te oil pump. Fuel econonmy is why some cars and hybrids use a 0w30 oil. Its extremely thin, offers little resistance to pump.

If you have alot of miles on your vehicle a 10w40 might not be a bad idea, as te thicker oil will cushion worn parts and seep into the combustion chamber less, causeing less oil to be burned. Ditto for 20w50 if your ish is really worn out.

I use castrol syntec in both of my cars.

My 2004 cavi has had synthetic since its first oil change, and seems to run best on the 5w30. My gf's 1999 Malibu (2.4tc) has only had synthetic for around 6k of its 130K miles. It seems to run the same no matter what grade I use, though I tend toward the thicker grades since its had a hard life on natural oil before we got it from her mom.


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my oil cap also says 5w30 on the cap. I have always used 10w30 but its a spring/summer/fall car. doesn't really see cold weather. It tells you in your owners manual that 5w30 is used for colder weather. but since mine doesn't see cold weather and is started, im not worried. i have always ran Mobil 1 synthetic since they guarantee that it is 100% new oil. none re-manufactured, filtered, at all. 100% new.

listen to ronin..he tells the truth....break it down...5w = 5winter the 30 means when its hot ...so 5w30 and 10w30 are going to be EXACTLY the same in a warm engine gm recommends 5w cus they dont know where the hell you live when you buy your car so 5 will work everywhere..i personally use 10w all the time but have no problems mixing it with 5w when needed...this is NOT a big issue at all and shouldnt even be worried about

thanks guys, i just learned somethinghaha

Maken Waves wrote:the oil lines in a 2.4 are so small. there like the bb gun barrel. 10w might be to thick and not flow right

ive been using 15W50 M1 for 100K now..

stock .. um, everything.

Chris


'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

.. and just a FYI thing.. GM has a pic of a bottle of M1 15W50 in there performance book........

and, word with GM is at 5 below Zero, 15W50 M1 flows better than 5W30 conventional.......

but, what do i know.

Chris


'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

just another little piece of info while were on oil...

i just got one of my letters from GM at work ( an educational thing)..and under myth "busters" it says "engines do NOT have to be broken in with conventional oil before you go to synthetic...gm breaks in many of their engines with mobile 1 synthetic" ..........straight from the horses mouth

Maken Waves wrote:the oil lines in a 2.4 are so small. there like the bb gun barrel. 10w might be to thick and not flow right

Ive been using 15w50 synthetic with NO problem at all, so has other people.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Hmmmm. I learned something. Nothing better than learning new things

scott (section8cav) wrote:just another little piece of info while were on oil...

i just got one of my letters from GM at work ( an educational thing)..and under myth "busters" it says "engines do NOT have to be broken in with conventional oil before you go to synthetic...gm breaks in many of their engines with mobile 1 synthetic" ..........straight from the horses mouth

Sure gets spendy though with all of the frequent oil changes needed when breaking in an engine.

Why are we still talking about this...sounds like a dumb newbie question. What could you possibly gain by putting a higher viscosity oil in? If you want better protection, put synthetic oil in. End of story.

I dunno just put some oil in the bish and let's ride!

I like 0W30. Most of the newer Saabs come with it.



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

RedlineZ wrote:Why are we still talking about this...sounds like a dumb newbie question. What could you possibly gain by putting a higher viscosity oil in? If you want better protection, put synthetic oil in. End of story.

i love people like this, ruins good things with bad comments like this...

thanks alot man : )

RedlineZ wrote:Why are we still talking about this...sounds like a dumb newbie question. What could you possibly gain by putting a higher viscosity oil in? If you want better protection, put synthetic oil in. End of story.

worked for my Z24....

thats all I am saying.

Chris


'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

well while people are actually still reading this, can a thickier oil make for a bad cold start, i mean real cold like in the teens?

i ask again because no one really answered that question for me, but if you could it would be much appreciated

once more, 15W50M M-1 flows better than 5W30 conventional.


Chris


'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

Taetsch Z-24 wrote:once more, 15W50M M-1 flows better than 5W30 conventional.


Chris

ya i read that but right now i have 10w30 and i get bad starts when its really cold outside, im wonderin if its the oil that could do this or if its something else

Quote:


Ive been using 15w50 synthetic with NO problem at all, so has other people.

thats what i use as well

Quote:

What could you possibly gain by putting a higher viscosity oil in? If you want better protection, put synthetic oil in. End of story.

your comment alone shows you know nothing about what your talking about...synthetic oils have differnt viscositys as well..and for a reason..and if you dont know how oil viscosity effects engine performance then i think you need to back to posting in the newbie forums..

Quote:

can a thickier oil make for a bad cold start, i mean real cold like in the teens?

if your starting your car in the teens then a 5w oil would be suggested...cold weather tends to make oil thick, which leads to decreased oil flow when yo ustart your car...a 5w oil is thinnn when cold allowing it to get to vital engine parts faster than thicker oil weights