I have pretty much used up my stock clutch now, and I got 6,000 miles out of it. Yes, I know, don't speedshift from gear 2 to 5, but still, I do delivery driving, so it's a lot of stop and go, getting on and off highways countless times per day. I want to get a SPEC-SC891 or SPEC-SC892 clutch, and I would like to know, is that all I will need? As in, if I go and buy it off of Amazon.com for $300 or $400 is that it, or are there other components I need with this upgrade. Also, How much more difficult is it to use the SPEC-SC892 over the SPEC-SC891 during daily driving? One other thing, What does the dealer usually charge to have the clutch installed? I may just drive up to Blake Chevrolet and have them do it, when I get the money.
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We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...
speeshift from 2nd to 5th? 6k out of a stock clutch ur doing somethign VERY wrong...
spec I and II will be fine for daily driving and decent power. i think its rated around 250 for the state II idk for sure. it will be fine for what ur using it for
http://www.myspace.com/15102113
12.5@116 2.0 60ft
Yea, that's b/c I was too lazy to double clutch from 2 to 5 after accelerating to 50 MPH. Anyways, try rapidly accelerating on and off a highway about 20-30 times a day every day. How long does your clutch last doing that?
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We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...
I called Blake Chevrolet and they said if I bring in a clutch kit they can install it for $693.85! Yeargh!
So I got to shop around a little, these prices are insane down here in South Florida.
In hindsight, I think this thread needs to be moved into the Transmission section.
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We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...
Ummm wow, your an idiot. You don't have to double clutch any car with synchros. You simply don't know how to drive....that's it.
I don't care if you have to get on and off the highway 600 times a day, if you know how to drive a manual transmission car that kind of @!#$ isn't gonna kill a clutch in 6000 miles. I'm sure the 250+ drag passes I put on my STOCK CLUTCH is a lot more abuse that you getting on and off the highway, and I got 32K on mine plus all the racing and it still had tons of life on it.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
got over 70k on a eco clutch , and that includes alot of racing
if you blew through a clutch in 6k then you gotta learn how to drive a manual , or trade the car in and get a auto
Impreza WRX wrote:Yea, that's b/c I was too lazy to double clutch from 2 to 5 after accelerating to 50 MPH. Anyways, try rapidly accelerating on and off a highway about 20-30 times a day every day. How long does your clutch last doing that?
why would it matter how u shifted to 2nd to 5th??? my stock clutch lasted 30k... and a good 12-15 of it was with 12psi through a 16g.. when we pulled the motor, the clutch still had a fair amount of life left.
an average person wtih a stock car shoudl be able to get around 100k on it.. even more.
u need to learn how to drive a manual if u toasted a clutch in 6000 miles.. or buy an automatic... not trying to be a dick but your doing somethign wrong..
any hypsy is right, u dont have to double clutch a car with synchros... stop watching fast and furious
http://www.myspace.com/15102113
12.5@116 2.0 60ft
FnF was just plain stupid. Yea, well I'm not going back to an automatic, so I'm just learning to drive manual better.
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We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...
I do know that the car likes to shake rattle and roll (well mainly shake and rattle) when I push the clutch to go from gear 1 to gear 2. It doesn't do it if I push the clutch a "certain way". Is this normal idiocy or is something else wrong? It did it ever since I drove it off the used car lot. Never had any other car do that.
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We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...
my clutch has never been changed sence 2002 when it was drove out of Michigan. That was 5 year and 68K miles ago ... Still has alot of life left.
My synchros are starting to go to
but right now its only if i go from 4-1 while pressing on the brakes ( not not while im going 30 ish, i dont switch gears until just about to stop ... maybe 5 mph)
I got over 100,000 miles on my stock clutch...100 or so passes down the 1/4, boosted since '03...and it still had life left on it when I swapped trannies. Time to start side-stepping your clutch!
14.330 @ 96.37mph
Enlighten me, oh booster of the engines, on the way of sidesteppng the clutch...
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We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:Ummm wow, your an idiot. You don't have to double clutch any car with synchros. You simply don't know how to drive....that's it.
I don't care if you have to get on and off the highway 600 times a day, if you know how to drive a manual transmission car that kind of @!#$ isn't gonna kill a clutch in 6000 miles. I'm sure the 250+ drag passes I put on my STOCK CLUTCH is a lot more abuse that you getting on and off the highway, and I got 32K on mine plus all the racing and it still had tons of life on it.
I'm going to agree with this 100%, lol. Learn how to drive a stick man . . . My Cavy is at 23,500 miles without any problems whatsoever and sometimes I'm pretty hard on it with launches, hi-rev shifting, etc. Not all that hard to make your clutch last long man . . Learn how to launch properly without riding the clutch, and shift around 3/4K every gear and call it a day. How the hell did you wear it down THAT fast??
It's real easy. Put in gear, add revs, and instead of letting the clutch out as you normally would, just step your foot off the side of it.
Instant clutch actuation, no slippage!
14.330 @ 96.37mph
And great amount of wheelspin in the process, right?
I tend to accelerate real fast, and upshift at the "red" line. Could this be the reason then?
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We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...
I also don't "ride" the clutch if possible. I launch and keep the revs at 1000 until it bites, then I'm off the clutch. The only way I can think of is when I speedshift I release the clutch slow enough so the car doesn't "jolt" when it engages the next gear (we're talking a difference of a fraction of a second here) perhaps that's where all the wear is at, given that I upshift, depending on the situation, between 5000 "taking it easy" and 6000 "merging into speeding traffic!" and I'm into the next gear well before the revs are matched.
And I have had to use double clutching before, on an OLD Ford Explorer that had really worn synchros, so it kinda becomes habitual.
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We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...
on my 99 cav i had 187,000 kms (116,875 miles) and i had no problems with it at all
I blew my engine autocrossing at 85K, clutch still works fine. I'm only replacing it to handle turbo power when I have the cash since I'm rebuilding the engine from bottom to top. You obviously have no idea what your doing, or you purchased a screwed up car. I learned to drive manual in my sunfire, and my wife also learned on the same car. 2 people learning to drive the clutch +85,000 miles on it.
It may not even be the clutch. Could be flywheel bolts. If the car did that in the lot it should have never left the lot.
-Chris
WOW....this is what you need to do when you get your new clutch.....BE ABLE TO START MOVING IN FIRST WITH OUT PRESSING THE GAS. when you could do that start driving the car around....until then just practice in your drive or in a nice big parking spot cuz you suck at driving.....sorry man you need some serious practice....my car has 47000+ stock clutch and some racing still feels like it did when i got it...
I can do that with a '95 Honda Civic (and that's not easy).
Anyways, before you keep stabbing me like
Black Mage over my driving skills (or lack thereof) I have an update that may shed light on this.
Early this morning I went to Miami to attend school, since it started. These past couple weeks I've been driving like an old man that likes to go fast, accelerating slow, not riding the clutch, perfectly matching each gear as I upshift (and I mean perfectly, like not even the slightest bump when I step off the clutch most of the time), but still going the flow of traffic, and when I got back from Miami, it was in
noticeably worse condition. I didn't stop more than a few times, as I carefully chose my route to avoid stop and go traffic, and I upshifted at 3500 and never pushed the gas hard at all ever. On the turnpike I was averaging between 60-70 MPH, depending on the tidal wave of traffic.
THIS IS WHAT I THINK IT MIGHT BE:
At speeds equating 50 MPH or more, my car VIBRATES a lot. This vibration didn't completely go away when I got my new tires mounted and balanced. It's not the brakes, and AFAIK the CV axles are not showing signs of wear, e.g. pop pop pop around hard turns or clunking on acceleration. I even checked the tire balance and it is good, plus the fact that I torqued the wheel nuts to 100 ft-lbs. in the proper crossing pattern with a torque bar myself! It makes no sense. It still drives like a washing machine off balance in the spin cycle. When I rotated my own tires and didn't balance them in my Civic, it still drove smoother than my Cavy does now. Also, since I drive at about 50 MPH all the time, it could be what is causing it to slowly wear so fast.
All I know is the Turnpike did in one morning what it has taken me two weeks to accomplish in terms of worn clutch wear.
I am wondering if this vibration could be what has / is causing my clutch to commit suicide. I don't see any other logical reason behind it.
P.S. Everyone is a n00b at one time in their lives. You were too, until you got good at what you do.
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We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...
Driving at a constant speed doesn't wear the clutch out. Ridding it does. How do you figure the clutch it blown, can you still engauge/dissengauge it. If not you may have overheated your slave (albeit very prematurely). Also how are you "speed shifting"
Reasons I think the clutch has had it.
1: While it "contacts" in the right spot, just a little off the floor, it doesn't "grab" until I am almost off the pedal.
2: When the clutch was good it would grab just a hair off of the contact point.
How am I speed shifting? Ironically, I choose this method right now:
1: Clutch all the way in
2: Change gear
3: Wait for RPMs to sync
4: Quickly release clutch
5: When done right, which I got the pattern down, you can smoothly engage every gear while still quickly leaving the clutch. Granted once I get this fixed I will have to readjust the pattern.
Before I noticed the clutch was worn, I really put the speed in speed shift.
1: At the same moment you leave the gas, disengage gear <---- Did this a lot without even noticing it at first, I think it's called "floating gears"
2: Clutch all the way in <---- IMPORTANT to do this step before step 3
3: Next gear
4: Quick off the clutch while putting the hammer down <--- Could it be this part? Maybe I put too much throttle early on?
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We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...
you could be putting way to much throttle down while the clutch is not fully engauged, wearing it out. Once the car is going there's so much momentum that as long as the release of the clutch is smooth it shouldn't affect too much. But I still don't get why this was your prefered methed of shifting because you were lazy, it seems to be just as much effort as normal driving.
1-2-5 to get to 50 really fast, as opposed to 1-2-3-4-5 to get to 50 really fast.
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We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...
If you accelerating hard to 50 mph thru 1st and 2nd gear, and then shifting into 5th to cruise at that same speed, as long as you wait for the rpms to drop down to the general area that your 50 mph crusing rpms are before you actually shift into 5th ( Rev Matching) It will not wear out your clutch at all more than starting from stop. A clutch is made to bring a 2600+ lb. car stop to moving, im sure slowing down 4 pistons is nothing to it.
unless your rippign thru 1st and 2nd gear, shifting into 5th and still going WOT......then your just an idiot
