just got my car back from the shop ... my head gasket is leaking and soon to blow. the estimate bill to replace it is $1,105.64. what can I do that will be cheaper. my friend put a diffrenent engine in his car for cheaper. should I be looking for a new engine or sell my car for a diffrenent one?
do it yourself might be a better idea, parts are far less, its just the labor. What motor do you have?
Profile says it the 2.4 TC, its not real hard to do your self.
2012 HD VRSCF
2010 Ford Explorer
2006 Ford Ranger
2004 Chevy Cavalier
Fire Fighter wrote:Profile says it the 2.4 TC, its not real hard to do your self.
except for the whole taking half the engine off, and timing it once you're putting it back together. not really something for your novice mechanic...
cmunn99gt wrote:Fire Fighter wrote:Profile says it the 2.4 TC, its not real hard to do your self.
except for the whole taking half the engine off, and timing it once you're putting it back together. not really something for your novice mechanic...
Haha, things like this are what turn novices into mastahs LOL
Yeah, it's not really too difficult, but you sound like you have never really touched an engine before. Whatever you do, do not sell it unless you tell the anyone interested about the problem first, that would be a @!#$ty move. If you can put in a new engine for cheaper, by all means do it if the engine is running properly and is not too high on miles. You don't want to put in a new engine that is going to have problems soon.
new gasket is what $20? Do it yourself (I'm sure you could find someone else in the area with experience that would be willing to help out too...maybe cost you lunch though
). Sucks that it's a DOHC, a lot more work. It's times like these that make you wish you were rocking the OHV
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
i did mine by my self it took me 6 hours and a 12 pack oh ya the gasket was 50$
^^ i agree..grap a gasket and a make some free time in the WEEKEND ..once your done youll know alot more about your engine
..oh yea...dont forget LOTS of tools
FACT : Statistics show that you are more likely to to be hit by lightning than to die street racing.
OHV notec wrote:new gasket is what $20? Do it yourself (I'm sure you could find someone else in the area with experience that would be willing to help out too...maybe cost you lunch though ). Sucks that it's a DOHC, a lot more work. It's times like these that make you wish you were rocking the OHV
Don't ever wish that. Trust me lol. Pulling a head on an LD9 isn't as bad as pulling a head on an OHV car. Everything is mounted to the head on the LN2 cars.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Yeah just take you time. It's not really that bad. You could do it in a weekend. Just have someone there to help you. Four hands are better than 2!!
Headgasket and headbolts are your minimun. DO NOT reuse headbolts. Yes you can get away with it but it is not reliable. If you are gonna invest the time in doin it, get a set of secret cams to make it worth your while. When BlackZ2401 popped the topend of his motor the dealer wanted like 4 g's, so instead he now has a forged bottom end, ported head, secret cams, Header and the list goes on, and it was still cheaper. If you are compitent enough to do it yourself you can have the Secret cams and a good motor again for around $500. Thats what I say to do
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
You don't JUST need a head gasket. Here is a list of the things you will need when pulling the head on your car:
Lots of tools
Head gasket and head bolt kit
Valve cover gasket
Intake manifold gasket
Exhaust manifold gasket
Oil and filter
Coolant
A tap to clean out your head bolt boles in the block. VERY NECESSARY. I am not sure what the thread pattern on the LD9 is, you can call a GM dealership parts and service counter and ask. I know mine on the LN2 is M11 x 1.50 pitch.
You will need to take the cylinder head to a machine shop to get resurfaced.
Do the job right the first time and take all precautions and you shouldn't blow out another one anytime soon.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
intake and exhaust gaskets are factory reusable, no worries. Gaskets for the cam carriers I recomend but not needed. Oil, filter, coolant- yes. The tap is not needed on the Iron block, just be sure to blow out the holes before the bolts go in. Also the only time you need to take a head to a machine shop is if it is warped, otherwise you do not need to have it resurfaced
Tools, I am goin off the top of my head- 10mm, 13 mm, 15 mm, 18mm, 8mm, 7mm (all sockets deep and shallow), small pick, screwdrivers, torque wrench, balancer puller, socket for balancer bolt (size eludes me), gasket scrapers, 3/8" drive breaker bar.
Also recomended to change- timing tensioner, tensoner shoe, three guides, and water pump. Its apart do it now.
Only odd tools are a torque wrench, balancer puller and I have the cam gear tool (not needed)
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
Definately change out the timing chain and guides while you have the head off.... always change your water pump whenever it is right there for you to get as well.
The 2.4 is a PITA to work on.
Good luck.
Cardomain|
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Head Gasket OEM part # 12360466 cost $66.57
Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system.
Disconnect upper radiator hose, heater hose and throttle body heater hoses from coolant outlets.
Remove exhaust manifold as described under Exhaust Manifold . Refer to Exhaust Manifold .
On DOHC engine , remove intake camshaft housing.
On SOHC engine , remove camshaft housing. Refer to Camshaft, Housing and Valve Lash Adjusters, Replace.
On DOHC engine , remove exhaust camshaft housing as described under Camshaft, Housing and Valve Lash Adjusters . Refer to Camshaft,Lifters and Push Rods.
On all models , remove engine oil filler cap and dipstick from engine.
Pull oil fill tube upward to unseat from engine.
Disconnect injector wiring harness.
Drain and recover engine coolant.
Remove oil fill tube out top rotating as necessary to gain clearance for oil/air separator nipple, located between intake manifold tubes.
Remove air cleaner to throttle body duct.
Disconnect power brake unit vacuum hose from throttle body.
Remove throttle cable bracket.
Remove throttle body from intake manifold and position aside with throttle cable, coolant hoses and electrical connectors attached.
Disconnect MAP sensor vacuum hose at intake manifold.
Remove intake manifold brace, then disconnect electrical connectors from MAP sensor, MAT sensor and purge solenoid.
Remove intake manifold as described under Intake Manifold , Replace. Refer to Service and Repair .
Disconnect upper radiator hose from water outlet.
Disconnect both coolant temperature sensor electrical connectors.
Loosen cylinder head attaching bolts in reverse order of tightening sequence, Fig 12 .
Remove cylinder head and gasket.
Reverse procedure to install. Tighten cylinder head attaching bolts using torque angle meter tool No. J-36660, or equivalent, as shown in Fig 12
