So I got under the car and I was like, great! Later I looked at the GM repair manual and low and behold I have to remove the lower mount and bracket to get the freaking oil pan out. So I know there have been many of you folks who went down this path and I need to tell me your experience please.
Now when I change my mounts, I usually place a jack on that bracket to support it, now I can't. What have you all done to support the engine while doing this? I was thinking of placing a jack stand on the bottom of the transmission case. Would the upper mount be strong enough to hold the engine? Personally, I don't think so, but some one may know more of this. Any ideas?
Also if you have any advice to cut time on this adventure will greatly appreciated.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
If you have access to a cherry picker that would be the best. And the upper mount can support a certain amount but not crazy. You can do the jack stand under the trans but put a piece of wood on it so you dont damage the pan, and you should be just fine. Your only really removing the dogbone mount so nothing too crazy. Most of the weight is on the top one anyways. Goodluck!
The lower mount does not hold the engine up at all. Its more like a torque strut.
I've pulled mine about 6 times and i don't believe i ever put anything on to hold the motor up. some advise i would give is when you drain the coolant pull the lower line where it connects to the hard line get ass much coolant as you can. Then when you go to undo it at the thermostat i would recommand doing it from up top or you might eat some coolant. I uaually go thru my header to do it, believe its 8mm.
I usually do what you thought about doing, putting a jack stand under the tranny and of course the top mount is there. No issues the one time I did it.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Ok I took the day off to do this $hit and a host of other maintenance parts. Nothing broken other than a leaky heater hose which I just replaced already. I took the metal pipe off, loosen the the bolts that holds up the pan. I have a manual car, so the only place I'm thinking of putting a jack or jack stand is under tranny case. I'm under there and something about a 450+lbs of engine/transmission that I'm terrified about. Upon removing the lower mount, will the engine shift any where?
Now since I'm down there I'm changing the thermostat. Do you guys recommend a sealant? My car has been fixed by the dealer for the Getrag noise back in 2003 so I don't know what the factory did, the dealer looks like added a sealant. What do you guys recommend on this?
Any help will be appreciated.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
I have never used sealant the many times I had to take my thermostat out. Just make sure the black O ring is there and your good to go. Oh, and tighten the two bolts good of course.
As far as the engine shifting when removing the lower mount, not sure since you wont have really anywhere to put the jackstand on the passenger side of the engine. I would just recommend putting the jack stands anywhere you can that doesn't obstruct you dropping the pan.
Good luck
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Why are you removing the oil pan?
A Stock upper mount will support the motor just fine.
FU Tuning
Thank you guys, the upper mount holds the engine in place.
I am having a problem with the stud that is on the bottom that prevents the pan to drop. Being that it is soft metal and I'm the second person (first was the dealer)to go at it, I stripped it and the pan will not lower. I was like 99% done on it and I could not find a way to get the freaking stud out. Does any one have any ideas on getting the stud out?
The reason I'm dropping the oil pan is because there is something in there and it is bigger than the drain hole. I've seen it there for close to 2 years but never wanted to take it out unless I have to change other things to get there.
Any hints will be helpful here!
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Smoke another one chief, sorry but I think you need to hang it up and take it to a shop
Ok sorry for beeing a dick, run two nuts on it and urn the top one off and it will run the stud out. If I'm being clear it will workt
Ive never had an issue pulling the stud out, if Im thinking of the right one. You are referring to the one that goes between the pan and the transmission.
If so, try 2 nuts like nate said or just use a pair of vise grips and remove it. Should be easy to replace, just geton one from a hardware store or dealer at last resort.
Its kind of a pain in the ass to pull the pan off while its in the car isnt it? I think the worst part are the 4 bolts that hold the torque strut bracket to the block.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
^^There are a lot of bolts to remove... time consuming.
TY guys, you all been great.
I could not remove the stud out after putting in the nuts from home depot as they did not fit right. I will have to get them at a junk yard some other time. I did get to crack open the pan a little more inserted a magnet and removed the crap that was in there.
Looks to be part of the dipstick tube. Masterfully done GM.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Revisited...
So i go under my car to paint some exhaust welds on my new exhaust and i find out that my oil pan has a film of oil. I look up and it is coming from the oil pan gasket (still using the old one). Now, I'm in dire need to drop the oil pan.
The problem I have is still the same one... the f-ing stud that goes from oil pan to transmission. I've tried everything, from the sockets (rounded edges in two sizes), two nuts (as in pics--stripped the threads on the nuts-twice), adjustable wrenchs and vise grips on the tip. And the thing won't budge. I know it did not come from the factory like this, as I took out a stud from the junk yard in under a minute. Looks like when I was getting the Getrag serviced for the noise back in 2002/03 (my thread on Getrag noise), the GM mechanic decided to use something that will be stuck there for life---a-hole.
I come to you experts who may have tackled this numerous times... what can I do? If i cut it, I'm afraid I'll still won't have the clearance to remove the pan. I'm literally out of good ideas.
So... HELP!
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
try and find a socket that slightly to small and hammer it on.or assuming your going to replace the stud anyway you could weld the nut on then loosen it.
^I did that too (1/4 socket) and went counterclockwise and it just rounded the edge and nothing--sigh.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
If you can't get it to back out with nuts locked onto it, I would almost say to just clamp a vice grip down as hard as you can on the threads ( I know usually a no-no) and crank on it till its out. I have had my fair share of studs that don't want to come out... Heat is an option as long as you don't wreck anything but it looks like thats a pretty sensitive place to be.
You could cut it off and then drill into it and then use an easy out? or at least get it cut flush on the trans so you won't have clearance issues?
Now the welding is a good idea.
Thing is to find a weld machine. Only place is the exhaust shop.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Jordan, I to want to cut the damn thing out... but from what I remember, i still think there will not be enough clerance--still. The vice grips, I tried ONLY on the tip and I noticed that the stut is soft metal. So my logic if I use it on the thread side, it ain't gonna do much.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
did you tighten the 2 nuts together !st before trying to back the top nut off? that works everytime...go to sears and get a stud remover...i got mine from snap on..
I had a similar problem on my car. I just used a grinder and just cut two sides flat, then found a wrench that fit and a long bar and just broke it loose.
put in a Melling pump while your doing all of this.
FU Tuning
Try using a 7mm socket. I dont recall using a single SAE socket on any of the factory nuts or bolts on my engines.
Nate (THE NASTY ONE) wrote:did you tighten the 2 nuts together !st before trying to back the top nut off? that works everytime...go to sears and get a stud remover...i got mine from snap on..
Yes I did ... and do think it is a great idea too. But in this case, it didn't work. Basically because one nut (inside) is being held up by all 4 threads of the nut. The other, is being held up by just 1-1/2 threads, so what happens... the threads of the second nut gets separated as not all 4 threads of the nut are on the stud. As you can see in the pics the stud is not long enough for both nuts.
Now, the stud remover, is this the one you're speaking about? Or is there a better and more effective design that you may know or use?
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-stud-remover/p-00904458000P
Freelancer1988 wrote:I had a similar problem on my car. I just used a grinder and just cut two sides flat, then found a wrench that fit and a long bar and just broke it loose.
That is a definite idea.
Addicted to meth wrote:put in a Melling pump while your doing all of this.
lol The pump is doing fine, besides the car has like 53K miles on it, at the rate I treat my cars, I'm good for another 100K miles
mitdr774 wrote:Try using a 7mm socket. I dont recall using a single SAE socket on any of the factory nuts or bolts on my engines.
Yep, I did as that, as it is the exact size to use, and initially it's what I've used too. But like I mentioned before, I round out the edges on on two sockets, one being the original 7mm and the other I grinded and hammered a SAE-1/4 socket. Both of which failed in the turning the bloody stud.
I will go to Sears and see what they have. If anyone else has any more ideas, I'm all eyes on it. You guys threw out some real good ones.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
another idea for you, they make an impact driver that is used for freeing frozen bolts like the screw that holds on some brake rotors. put he socket on, put it on said frozen bolt, and hit it with a hammer. your not going to have much room to swing so its going to be lots of small hits. you can get it at an the auto store, Autozone for sure. good luck
