Ok well i spun a rod bearing a month or so ago, so now just trying to bring it all back together.

I have a new block that is completely machined and ready for my new pistons and my new crank.
just a few items i need to address before i start assembly....

1. my new block has been sitting for some time and has a light glaze of surface rust on the machined surfaces (hardly noticable, like the rust on a brake rotor after you havent driven the car for a couple days) What should i use to clean it up and get a nice fresh surface again?

1a. I do not know how well the block was cleaned after it was machined, and i fear metal shavings in it as well.... Should i get the block hot tanked just to be sure? can you hot tank something AFTER it has been machined? and is there any dis-assembly that needs done before tanking, and what all needs to be replaced? (freeze plugs? oile galley plugs? etc)

2. my head may still have some contamination in the oil passages, and if i put it on as is, it could get crap back in the new engine and kill things all over. I have a local shop that will "hot tank" a head for me cheap.... but i need to bring it in completely bare. I have never taken apart a head... so is there anything tricky about it? can i do it myself with some sutozone rental tools and a haynes guide?

2b. if i disassemble the head... is there anything that needs replaced? like any "one time use" parts? or can it all go right back in where it came from? (the head is almost new, less than 5000m on it)

3. are there any other things anyone can suggest i do before i start putting the engine back together? I just dont want to spend all this money to have it blow up again on me.

4. what are the best bearings to use? i was told clevite 77 for rod and main... anyone say any different?

5. what is the best 2.3L oil pump? I am told mellings is the best, (but autozone has some other brand that costs like $50 extra and has double the warranty of the mellings, would this be worth tyring or just stick with mellings? or is there a performance pump i should look into instead? (ps. yes i did the 2.3L oil pump conversion)

1. on a non-important contact area....like oil pan gasket, some wd-40 with light steel wool woll do wonders.

if it is a more important area....like cyl. wall, get it re-honed.

2. you can tear apart a head with little knowledge, and few tools. I would replace valve seals, and other related parts.

3. proper break in.....dont get it & beat it, take it gentle for a while. use good assembly lube, and be generous with it. make sure you prime the pump before starting, and crank it for a while with fuel/spark disabled to get some oil flowing.

4. clevite 77 are good bearings, but it really comes down to clearance on the bearing more than anything. I had some sealed power bearings, plastigaged them, and they had to much slop, got a set of clevites, and it closed it up to perfect clearance. that has nothing to do with the bearings themselves, more the crank. you have to have proper oil clearance....period.

5. ask someone else....