whats the average cost of replacing them and the cost of the parts. whats the book time on this also would it be something covered under warrenty through the dealership?

If they are bad, and the car is under warranty, then hell yea its a warrantable repair. New front ones are around 90 a piece I think at O'riellys, rears are like 60 or so I think. Fronts should not take more than 30-45 minutes a piece, rear takes longer (all those d*mn springs and brake parts in the way). Don't have a CLUE what the GM book time is though, probably 3 hours a piece for front, and 5 a piece for the rear, they gotta shaft you somehow!

oh ok thanks ya i just cant figure out what the road noise is i just replaced all my tires and around 40-50 mph you can hear a lot of road noise and a little vib on the steering wheel but ya its hard to tell what it is thanks

if the wheel bearing is bad, you'll hear a humming noise

I work as a mechanic for a living. Fronts each side is 1.1 hours, i have yet to do a rear one though.

You sometimes hear a humming, or grinding sound, sometimes it gets louder if you go left or right.

Also if the car is in neutral, and you lift up the one wheel, you will have play in all directions, up and down, side to side, and 2 and 8 o clock, and 5 and 10, o clock.

Sometimes to you will have a constant viberation in the sterring wheel.

These arent hard to do yourself, but you need a T50 or T45 socket, its one of those


- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new

Hey Tyler per Alldata labor guide, if its for the 05 cav you have listed in your profile, it shows 1.4hrs to do both front, and 1.3 for both rear, Mitchell labor guide shows 1.6hrs to do both front, and 1.4 to do both rear, hope this helps.

GM part numbers

7470014 front hub msrp 180.56

7470597 rear w/4wheel abs msrp 309.70

7470599 rear non abs rear msrp 230.18

Depending on how many miles you have on them will help determine if and why they have gone away.
Till then, do like RobS said, lift the wheel off the ground and feel for any excessive play, spin the wheel and listen for any grinding noise, look at the front wheels and see if there is heavy brake dust accumilated on the wheel, check CV boots to be sure they are still intacted with no cuts or breaks in them, check outer bearing greae for contamination and bearing races for scoring, check tire inflation and alignment...the key is to determine if they need replacing and why so you don't repeat it again in another 5000 miles.

I think my left front wheel bearing is bad, There is a humming sound that comes from that area when I turn right on on-ramps and such. I did them on my 1990 Corsica and they weren't that bad. I'm not looking forward to changing them in the 95 degree heat here in Minnesota Thats how it always is, something usually breaks when it is really hot or really cold!!!

k thanks guys i will have to lift the car up this weekend and check them out i believe its the left side but im not sure i do know when i make a left turn it is a lot more noticable than when i turn right but like its when going above 35 or 40 when i really can tell. and no im not doing 35-40 when making turns that sounded bad lol but i mean when i turn the steering wheel ie switching lanes in traffic or on the highway. i had two like minute long vids but on my pda but i dont think the noise is clear enough to make out there is a lot of backround noise prob cuz the mic sucks on cell phones but does that sound like wheel bearings to everyone. oh and i have 42,9xx something miles so almost 43k and i bought it new with 4 miles and i know they have never been greased but from what i have heard and my understanding is they dont have any grease serts on them so ya but any help is greatly apreachiated thanks again

k

sirmeza wrote:...

7470014 front hub msrp 180.56

7470597 rear w/4wheel abs msrp 309.70

7470599 rear non abs rear msrp 230.18

I hate sealed-bearing hub assemblies!! Sure, they may supposedly last longer, but I can change the bearings in my Fiero by myself if they go bad... very quickly, with only a socket set, and for only $6!

I just found out today that it is my right frontwheel bearing it has a bubble in it. is there a link or could someone please post a more detailed install and removal and tools needed please thanks

i can get the whole assembly its the whole hub set for 82 bucks and some change so im going to get it. but i just need some help with install maybe some more insight on tricks and easier ways to do it thanks

Where do you live at?

I have all the tools I need, and I'll do it for $25, done tons of these before



Also to the above poster, sealed hub ones are easier to change, because ones that built into the spindle you need at least a 20 ton press to do, and I hate pressing bearings/in and out


- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new

A good how-to:
http://www.bradiscool.com/wheelbearing.html



    Shop Manuals, Brochures:www.kenmcgeeautobooks.com

in olathe ks

question do i need to use the o rings and seals and gaskets that came with the whole hub assembly

? anyone

One quick note Tyler if you have a GM dealer in your area that has a Goodwrench Plus service dept, the hubs they install have lifetime warranty thru GM, Just call a local dealer and see if thier service dept is a Goodwrench Plus.

Tyler Lemburg wrote:question do i need to use the o rings and seals and gaskets that came with the whole hub assembly

you dont need to if the old ones are in good shape... but id put the new ones on anyways because they're new...

ok thanks but im not going to have the stearlership do it they want 300 for labor and 177.10 for the part and wont install any mech. parts for liability purposes. now they will do lights and washer fluid tanks and switches etc. oh and thanks i was just going to put the new ones on but wanted to make sure. how long am i looking at to install the hub assembly thanks

ok well this is an awesome thread im about to replace the bearing hub assembly on my uncles 97 cavy and i see that you have to do alot more work in order to replace the seal, Ie removing the strut bolts and sway bar end

the car has 196k on it it isnt going ot last a whole lot more miles before it sees the shredder, he is just going ot run it til it dies which is most likely going ot be sooner than later the 2.2L engine doesnt even have the compression anymore to keep the car parked in gear on even just a slight grade, so i know its getting close to blowing up

how much would i need ot worry about putting the new seal on this car with it so close to death

thanks

-96 cavalier 2.2 auto 143k miles

186k miles oops

well i put a new hub assembly on the driver side because it sure seemed like it was coming from that side

welp it was still noisy after changing it

so i put the old driver side one on the pass side

no more noise, all gone

pass side bearing had just a tiny bit of slop in it, unlike the driver side original one

i didnt install the seal with the near hub assembly

i had to buy a T55 torx bit for 1/2 drive so i could use it on the impact gun


i liberally greased everything real good, both sides and splines and all too

who knows how long anything will last

this car has been run hard and put away wet but is still going

you should see the brake rotors they are severely worn down its crazy lol

when he blows up the engine finally i will see if i can have the car then ill put new rotors and another 2.2 in it and run it more

lol

ill have to take some pics i guess

its a 97 rally sport medium green 2 door sun roof 5 speed 2.2






thanks

-96 cavalier 2.2 auto 143k miles

well ill be doing this tom wish me luck lol oh and the bolts that use a t-55 torx bit are they rather hard to get off cuz i dont know if its worth buying a better quilty bit or not cuz if i break it i dont wanna be out of luck. oh and since gm decided to not put any washers or seals on the hub assembly should i go ahead and put seals on the other side just some this doesnt happen with the other side thanks

anyone?