Ok, here we go... 1996 Cav 2.2 OHV Auto Trans, 117k miles. Car runs great when it is cold, some valve train chatter until it gets a little warm. I take it out on the freeway for not quite a mile or put my foot in it and the oil can (oil pressure) light comes on and I start getting a knocking sound at a low idle when car is in gear only. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit so I know that isn't the cause of the light coming on. Any ideas? Thanks, JC

Sounds like you got a oil pump craping out.

mine did the exact same thing for about two months before the engine blew. My guess is that Oil pump is on its way out OR your bearing clearances are becoming larger meaning your engine is showing wear. The know you hear is most likely a rod knock so start planning for a rebuild or replacement.

oil pump! my 92 tempo is doing that after I cracked my head and water mixed with the oil. Just be carefull and get it fixed! Dont drive it after you get the oil light. Let the engine rest for at least 15-20 min.

It has a brand new oil pump just installed 300 miles ago.

not intending to be a jerk (okay, maybe a lil' bit) but a new oil pump being replaced a few hundred miles ago MIGHT be something you should have included in your original post. If you wanted some actual help, that is.

WHY was the oil pump replaced? What else was done to the engine at that time?

If you had a bad oil pump previously, the engine was most likely starved for oil at some point, or perhaps for a long period of time.

Who replaced the pump? It's not all that hard to mess up, if you don't pay attention to detail. Was it new or used? Don't rule out that sometimes parts are bad right out of the box.

And again, not to be a jerk, but you have multiple people that have some experience and know what they're talking about all telling you your description is indicative of a failing or failed oil pump. Don't discount the knowledge that is being passed on...it very well could be your new water pump is bad.

Of course, might not be....but hard to tell because we don't know what other pertinent details you left out of your original post.




-Ferrite

Wow, that was with not intending to be a jerk (ok a little)? What if you actually tried? I appreciate the help more than I can say (the sarcasm was a bit much), and I do not discount anyones opinion.

Other pertinent info? Lemme see...

• Used head, tested true and tanked.


• Valves seated by machine shop


• Oil pump and oil pressure sending unit was replaced (with new) trying to diagnose a valve ticking (still ticks when started)


• New timing chain installed, replaced it while checking the timing marks


• When I bought the car I was told it had less than 1k miles on rebuild. It ran great and passed smog (In California) and it ran great for about 2 months. It started to run rough so I checked the plugs and found out that one was burnt, no spark prong on plug. I also found out that that same plug was installed with a Heli-Coil so I replaced the head with the head mentioned above. It ran nice and then started to tick when it was cold and the oil pressure light came on at an idle when it was warm. I changed the pump immediately.


• From what I have found out by working on it, I believe the "rebuild" was done by someone with NO knowledge of cars, and they may have had a Chilton's manual but I won't swear to it...


• I have been beating my head against the wall with this problem, I did not leave info out on purpose, was a bit frustrated when I made original post.


Any other advice would be appreciated, maybe someone can tell me the best way to check the connecting rod bearings without pulling the engine.

Thanks,
JC