greetings. any knows which motor oil is better for my 1999 cavalier? penzel/quaker state or castorl gts?thx
Been using Penzoil myself from day one, with only a few exceptions. 186K+ miles, and no serious oil burning, no sludge, no varnish problems. Still have one relatively clean engine. I changed from 5w to 10w in the summer months solely due to the mileage on the engine.
Full synthetic mobil 1 for 170K miles 10k miles between changes and no leaks or burning. as for brand they are pretty much all the same and that high mileage crap is junk just sub a quart of oil with mystery oil that'll clean her out. If you have more then 100k miles you'll want to run a couple changes of oil that is a synthetic blend and see if it leaks if it doesn't then get a no gunk cleaner in the oil before you go synthetic or the varnish that it dissolves that the old didn't will kill your compression and mileage until you change it again.
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'96 Cavalier Good ol' Pushrod 2.2
-24X,000 miles on factory build
-Some oil loss between changes, me thinks it be rings.
I second the motion for M1 and 10k OCI's.
Personally I think Mobil 1 Syntetic is the best or Royal Purple?
But as for the conventional oils they are all good, the gov't has standards and all of them are required to follow or exceed them.
As long as It's a good brand name oil they are pretty much the same. My 2 cents is to always use 10w-30 though. If you put 5w-30 and 10w-30 in a clean container and compare them, the difference is so small it's barely noticible. That being true, you should just go with the thicker oil to give better protection. If you live in a hot climate that never gets cold you can go with an even thicker/heavier oil such as 15w-50. Most car manufacturers tell you to use 5w-30 or 10w-30 so there is more heat and wear on your engine hense not lasting as long as it could. 5w-30 is like water and I cant even imagine what it is like when it gets hot, you might as well use wd-40 than that crap. David Jones has a great idea of using synthetic but you have to change your oil filter every 5k miles. Full Synthetic oil will last 10k miles but the filter will not.
Have Fun!
The manual and dipstick calls for 5w30. What good is thicker oil if it can't flow to every place that it's needed? The clearances in our engines are very tight and the majority of the damage is caused by oil not being able to get where it's needed (dry/cold/winter starts). The difference might not be noticable to you in a container, but it is to your engine. The thought that GM would recommend a less than optimal oil weight for the purpose of destroying engines early is ridiculous. If they really wanted to kill engines early they could misengineer any part they wished from the factory.
2002 Cavalier 2200 5spd
My filter does...anyways, the 5w-30 puts less strain on the starter on cold mornings.
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'96 Cavalier Good ol' Pushrod 2.2
-24X,000 miles on factory build
-Some oil loss between changes, me thinks it be rings.
Quote:
If they really wanted to kill engines early they could misengineer any part they wished from the factory.
See also: LD9 Water pump.
5w30 Mobil 1 here. The only oil leak issue i had is when the bastards at Jiffy Lube overtightened my sump plug (note to any aspiring greasemonkeys here, the LD9's oil plug is to be torqued to 19ft-lbs--you do not need a pneumatic wrench to acheive this unless you have severe cerebral palsy, and in that case, set the wrench right.) which a new plug fixed.
Goodbye Callisto & Skaši, Hello Ishara:
2022 Kia Stinger GT2 AWD
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Quote:
If they really wanted to kill engines early they could misengineer any part they wished from the factory.
See also: 'Installation of aluminum head guide pins to LN4 engine block'
Mobil 1 5w30 every 2500-3000k miles.
well here it goes many will hate for this but this is what ive found about a few of the oil companies who meet or exceed the govt standards. Just a little backround info on where im getting my opinions from so if the bs falgs and flames start going i will have a little support to back it up. A very good family friend of mine rebuilds engines rangeing from bored out 350 and 454's to 16 cyclinder thunder boat chrysler engines was the main builder for the air plane engines on pearl harbor so I trust and have been shown some of the facts which I now present you. Penzoil-was a parafin based oil which yes is wax. Waht this did was cause huge build up in the engine over time. Many customers would complain about sluggish engines after an oil change,because the oil was so bad. This also resulted in higher costing problems such as engine rebuilding. When the engines were torn apart you could easily see the buildup on the everything in the block. MOST customers who came to him for engine rebuilds that had been using penzoil for a substantial amount of time needed a rebuild around 80k+. Valvoline, Mobil are the best in his opinion this is what he uses in all of his engines after a fresh rebuild-it is true oil though, new or rebuilt engines shouldnt have syntheic in them until after the first 1000 miles so that everything seats properly. Forturnately the dealers make sure everything is seated before you even buy your car now so no worries. After the first 1000 miles he then recomments the customer to change the oil out for a fully syntheic oil. Yes there are other oil companies such as quaker, castrol which are good oils as well. I personally have used catrol syntec in my wifes honda for the 90k+ it has on it and have no problems. Amsoil has been tried and tested and is an awesome oil but a little costly for some.
Heres the kicker: what good is leaving oil in your cast for 10k if you oil filter is only good for 3k? Ahh yes now fram makes a 7k filter and amsoil makes a 10k and 15k but im guessing, i may stand corrected later, that those of you leaving you oil in for 10k do not change you filter out 3 times during that period. If you do then good, if not why-is it becuase the oi doesnt look dirty, well you wrong, you nor i can see a micron which is what these filter filter out so if you decide to not change your oil for 10k make sure the filter gets changed.
You may not realize it but changing you oil on a regular basis will result in few repairs better gas mileage and an over all healthier engine. I have beat the piss out of my cav from day one, change the oil with mobil one every 3k and have had no leaks or engine problems-yes i use 10w-30 now beacsuse of the high mileage. Low miles under 80k 5w-30, over 10w-30 because you have enough wear on the engine that the oil needs to be thicker now.
If you do a search you might be able to find an old post that actually broke down the thermal temps of synthetic oil vs regualr oil. It was a very good write up.
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