Where are all the chassis ground locations at? I am still tryin to fix the screwy gauges problem and was told that there are several chassis grounds? I've already done the one by the battery but have no idea where the others are? Can anyone help? I had my neighbor hook it up to the code reader and no codes came up.
i ran a big gauge wire from the ground to 1 of the bolts on my IDI cover. mine is a 98 z24 with a 2.4L, and the "twin cam" cover has 4 bolts. i read somewhere that the bolt on the bottom left makes a good ground.
i know you have a diffrent engine probably, but you can find another bolt on whatever cover you have.
hope this helps
- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
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www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car club site!)
doesn't help at all man, i don't need to make another ground, i need to know the location of the factory chassis grounds.
I know of a few...
Engine near front of block, next to starter (at least on a 2.4L)
Left side frame rail, under the battery tray. There are several here.
Under dash, top of steering column support bar
Floor pan, driver's side (1), passenger side (2). May be more or less depending on year and options
2001 2dr cpe se. Now the radio works fine but the car won't stay runnin longer than like 2 seconds and then the odometer reads "error"
there's several grounds under the battery tray? I've got the 2.2 and only ground i see is the one the negative cable is grounded to. Negative cable runs down to the block ground and right on the battery tray there's a terminal crimped onto the cable and bolted to the battery tray. Are there actually more under there that i need to somehow check? I'm goin outta my mind here cause its not fair to the GF that i have to borrow her car all the time and its drivin me nuts too that my shi*'s not workin. I HATE RELYING on others for a car/ride.
There should be at least one bolt on the frame rail, underneath the battery tray. You won't be able to see it from the top, but you may be able to feel it. My car had three there, one for the headlight harness (grounded to the rail at the end of the plug), one for the body harness, one on the other side of the headlight harness.
ok update: Had neighbor hook up the code reader again with the key out, it read "fail". Put the key in the ON position but didnt' start the car, reader read "no codes." The car will start but immediately dies and odometer reads "error" I didn't do anything and neither did the neighbor. Why would it all the sudden not run?
worse comes to worse, if it turns out to be the ECM what kinda cost am i lookin at to get goin again
I just had a thought, Could all these gauge/ starting problems be related to the remote start system? Its been in the car for like 3 yrs and worked fine
under the battery tray should be one. there is also a gound under the driver seat and passenger seat.
MY 2003 SUNFIRE 15.33@88.5mph
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yes it very well could be your remote start system. it sounds like the passlock system is @!#$ up. i would have a car alarm installer go through it to make sure its all hooked up correctly. or if you have the smarts. do it yourself. if not. it could be the cluster itself.
Car starts but dies......This is the startup sequence. Turn ignition on, Power Control Module closes fuel pump relay for 2 seconds and then opens again. Fuel pump runs for 2 seconds and stops. Fuel rail is now pressurized. Turn key to crank engine. Engine starts and contacts on oil pressure switch close and feed power to fuel pump motor. Pump motor runs again.
So, if your car starts and then dies it's quite possible that your oil pressure switch is bad. This is a safety interlock to switch off the engine if there is low oil pressure.
