Getting ready to do the swap from the L61 to LE5 intake manifold along with LSJ injectors. Using HPTuners, what are the minimum changes required to make sure I don't blow the engine? I'm a complete n00b at tuning, but I've read as many of the FAQ's and basic how-to's as I could find on here.
If you have read the FAQ's and How-To's in this forum, there is not much else for this particular circumstance. If you are still lost Amazon has a few books on EFI tuning (in particular look for the ones by Greg Banish) that can point you in the right direction. They don't cost much and they are pretty easy/quick reads with tons of good info. It doesn't do you much good if we tell you to change this or that, you need to understand what and why you're changing in order for you to tune effectively.
Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure I worded my question correctly. Perhaps this clarification will warrant the same response.
While I understand that there are many facets of tuning, some extremely frustrating due to the L61 PCM, I'm curious as to what absolutely must be adjusted after increasing the volume of air going into the cylinders. For instance, is it necessary to raise the rev limiter (probably not)? Is it necessary to change shift pressures (I'm in an auto)? Is it necessary to add timing? etc etc
Is it necessary to add timing, no, but considering your will be changing the air/fuel flow and efficiency through the motor it warrants attention. You may be able to add in some places and might have to subtract in others to prevent knock. Shift pressure is something you can play with to make the car move through the gears more to your preference (like adding a shift kit), but adding more air/fuel has no effect on that. Only reason to adjust your rev limiter is if your power band is elevated and still making good power when it kick out. Your changing injectors (fuel) and manifold (airflow), so your primary focus should be on the Airflow and Fuel tabs in HPT, primary focus in fuel tab should be the injector constant. I would still recommend doing the reading.
Thanks for the follow-up reply. That's the kind of information I was looking for.
Sparkey05 wrote:I would still recommend doing the reading.
And I'm really not trying to be a dick when I second this, but the questions you asked make it clear to me that you need to do more research/reading on the subject. I'm going on a year of reading and tuning and I can say I'm still not even close to knowing half of what I should.
"In Oldskool we trust"
I'd take no offense to your seconding. It's not an insult to call a n00b a n00b. I've read through the sticky's a couple times and admit I don't fully grasp it yet. I usually need to see it in action in order to commit to full understanding. My only goal in getting a minimum set of adjustments was simply to quit delaying doing the LE5 swap. I'd like to get that done, tune it to the minimum safe levels so I don't blow the motor, and then continue to learn and refine the art of tuning.
With moderate mods and a decent tuner (since you aren't one then this next statement may vary) you can expect up to 20 WHP just on the manifold swap. I got 22 WHP with my manifold swap having a 2.25 exhaust (back then), crank pulley, 4-2-1 headers, AEM CAI, good shocks, engine mounts, tranny mounts, control arm bushings and 17 inch tires. I was pulling power until 6500 RPM and hit 168 WHP.
$500 for tuning lol and got 22 WHP. Damn that's not cheap. But I've paid over 1500 in tuning and as much as I want to mess with my own ECU I rather pay someone knowledgeable, but that's me.
Good luck man!
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
Forgot to add that I also had a 62MM TB at time of LE5 swap, NGK Iridium spark plugs (installed for tuning) and 93 octane which I was tuned on.
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
I'm going through the same mod, my eyes are burning from all the reading I've been doing about this, my gf's brother is even a certified GM tuning instructor and he was saying that it's easy to mess up a jbody computer, but he's done some cobalts without blowing them up. I'm just scared he knows too much about factory tuning and not enough about performance tuning. And where I'm at there's no dyno tuning. I would love to see 168hp on my old car.
Well Craig you have the option of doing a "Street tune." Its better than nothing. My last tune was a "street tune" and adjusting timing and spark while I drove was the best he could do. I could barely tell a difference in whether if I got 2 more WHP or 5 more WHP every time he would adjust it. If you don't build the car properly, you'll end up pulling power only in the high RPM range and everything under 6,000 RPM for instance won't make it fun to drive unless you're constantly punching it. I used to pull power after 4,500 RPM, and with more mods and different tuners, I ended up pulling power much higher which I don't like at all. Keep that in mind.
Either way I would let me tune the car and if he's doing it properly while you drive, you should be able to tell a difference if its more "peppy." Of course a dyno would be the only way of really knowing. How far is a dyno from you? Get a base dyno if you can. Good luck.
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
