Im about to install my wideband.

Its a Innovate LC-1 controller with a XD-16 gauge.

The wiring seems pretty simple but I can find any info about the grounds.

From my reading some say the Blue has to be separate and the green and white have to be together but you have to have the both grounds grounded as close to eachother as you can......That doesn't make sense to me.

Others say you can just put all 3 wires on the same grounding point...that makes more sense to me.

For those that have installed this setup which is it??

Next..

Can I get away with extending my ground wires? Like run one large 12g wire from a good ground point and solder all the grounds to that wire?

I want to do that since there isnt any real good ground points close to where im installing it all so the current wires wont reach.

On my MTX-L I know HPTuners and the gauge are all grounded to my OBD2 port bracket under the dash. Everything for HPTuners and my MTX-L is grounded there.

I would try and not extend you wires, but if you NEED to. I would solder like to said. Your voltage offset in HPTuners might be father off if your using this with HPTuners...

Innovate Motorsports wrote:The MTX-L has 5 stripped wire ends.

1. Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source. A switched 12V source goes on as soon as the ignition on the car is on. Make sure the connection is fused with a minimum fuse size of 3A.

2. Connect the BLACK wire to a ground source. Avoid noisy ground sources, such as grounds used for radio and or ignition sources.

3. Connect the WHITE wire to a headlight power wire (a wire that supplies current to the headlights). This enables the display to dim for better nighttime viewing. DO
NOT CONNECT THIS WIRE TO THE HEADLIGHT DIMMING WIRE. Connection to this rheostat type of switch will cause the gauge to malfunction. If you chose not to
utilize the dimming feature, connect the WHITE wire to ground.

4. Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers or ECUs. If either one or both of these wires are not being used isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way. The default analog outputs are as follows: Analog output one (yellow) is 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR. Analog output two (brown) is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. This is a simulated narrowband signal.

Innovate Motorsport for XD-16 wrote:
Connect the BLACK wire to ground. The ground should be shared with other MTS devices (for example: LC-
1, DL-32, SSI-4, TC-4, LMA-3, etc…)

Innovate Motorsport for LC-1 wrote:
LC-1 Cable connections:
A. Interface and power cables with 6 stripped ends*:
a. Red 12V supply
b. Blue Heater Ground
c. White System Ground
d. Yellow Analog out 1
e. Brown Analog out 2
f. Black Calibration wire

B. Serial In connection, 2.5mm stereo (female) marked as IN
C. Serial Out connection, 2.5 mm stereo (female) marked as OUT.
If you have an LC-1 with only 7 stripped ends the wiring is as follows:

a. Red 12V supply
b. Blue Heater Ground
c. White System Ground
d. Yellow Analog out 1
e. Brown Analog out 2
f. Green Analog Ground
g. Black Calibration wire

The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source. Optimally, these (and any other MTS device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and connected to a single point. When this isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug, and attach in close proximity. Multiple lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in unwanted signal “noise.” When possible, soldering is always better than crimping. Please see chapter 2.3 for more information on Electrical Grounding Concerns.

Note: The LC-1’s heater ground and system ground wires should share the same grounding location of the analog input’s ground

LC-1 Manual
XD-16 Manual






PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

The issue is I bought this ages ago used. So my xd16 gauge has short short wires and my lc1 wires are short. I'll do what you did and go to that plug for them and then extend my xd16 ground wire and solder them all into a single lug.

I don't know if I'm going to use them with hpt or not yet. I'm just trying to get an idea of my afr's.

Oh. Mine are on a ring terminal on the right side of the two bolts that hold the OBD2 to the metal sub frame.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

I'm going to extend my xd-16 ground wire. Since my gauge is on my steerin column and it's only 6" long or so.

I'm going to leave the lc1 wires the same and run them all to the same stud.

Electrically it shouldn't make a difference as long as the ground is oversized.

What's the worst that can happen lol.

Where did you mount your controller under the car?

So glad I got rid of my innovate. Ran into way too many problems.

Well ill give it a shot. Ive had it for years so might as well.

If I have any issues AEM it is.

With my LC-1 (no gauge), all my grounds are together. I also extended them some, but I also have mine setup for easy install as I do not keep on on a car because I use it for tuning.



FU Tuning

^Great thanks....

Ill be doing the install this week sometime if it stops raining for a bit. Going to run it through my trans cable hole since thats roughly where my bung is welded in.

I had mine run in through one of the grommets on the driver side.. also had my gauge mounted under the radio though. There was enough cable to mount the controller to my strut bar (more less just a connector for mtx-l) might have to go lower if your bung is farther down in teh system.


Have a nice day.

I have the lc-1 with the db gauge. The older units from years ago with like 7 wires I think it was. What I have in the trans am is the one with the offset issues needing grounded to different spots. The one I just picked up is the newer unit with all the grounds to the same location which is under the kick panel to the body. I had a little bit of a offset on the outputs of the controller though. The gauge was reading 14.4 at idle where when the controller was hooked into the laptop via there software it read 14.7. So I just edited the output voltage to the gauge to fix it. I believe I lowered the high end voltage/afr off my head. Basically did the same thing with the other output that is ran to my a/c pressure switch to monitor a/f via hptuners.

My wires are also extended some with out really a issue, you also might want to program the lc-1 when you get it. Mine shipped with the settings on custom where the wideband was off big time, switched it to gasoline and cleared it up.